msmithmmx

This has always baffled me.. Why would they give instructions in in-lbs. When 99% if the manual is in ft-lbs? 6) 3,4,5 and 6 (non turbo) to 132 in-lbs (divide by 12 for ft-lbs)

If You need from the cat back replaced then they are replacing the mid-pipe and the muffler. I replaced my mid-pipe and it cost me around 140.00 and multiple hours with the sawzaw (what a PETA). 400 sounds about right.

doing a drain of the ATF on level ground yeilds around 4.5 to 5 qts. I would drian and fill 4.8 qts. Get the engine up to temp and check atf fluid

When it over-heats can you feel the lower rad hose to see if it is hot or cold. If it is cold you have a leak somehwere.. tighten all of the hoses back up with a ratchet not a screw driver.

I feel alot better. I have lots of hours in this engine and wanted to be sure. Not sure what I would do without the forum. THANKS

I learned something. The buckets have a hydrulic center some are very stiff and some are very spongy. Does any one know which side of the spectrum they should be in. Iit appears that while sitting in the bag the oil leaked out. I have filled them up and they are becoming spongy

This engine is a 96 2.5. From what I am seeing in other posts, the buckets are not adjustable..

The crank and cam are at top dead center. I still have 0 clearance Take a look at the pic, do I have hydraulic buckets, I see no where to take a shim out.

I brought the heads to the shop for a resurface and replacement of the lifter seals that all. Now I have no cleareance between the cam lob and the bucket. 2.5 HG job has been very nasty.

On the back side of the bucket is a rod of some sort. Looks like it comes out. Any idea on the model # of the tool I need?

Thank you all for helping me with the cam install. One more. I installed the cams after the HG replacement. I tested for clearance between the bottom of the cam lob and the bucket. There is no cleareance it is resting on it. How do I adjust? I installed them exactly where I removed them from.

I installed the first cam. The cap went flush and I have a good fit. ONE MORE QUESTION. I think i have the hydraulic bucket lifters. Where does the cam need to be in order for me to check for clearances? Do I need to prime the buckets before I install them back in?

I had the heads machined along with a valve job. My issues is the lifters slash buckets are in the way of the cam sitting all the way down so the cam caps are flush to the head. If I put pressure on the cam I can push the lifters down. I will have to push the cam down whiling tighting the caps.

I am going to rotate the crank shaft in the correct position and then I should be able to push the cam's down thus depressing the lifters.

I have only tried the passenger side at this time. It is every cam cap, 6 in total that are not 100% flush with the head. I am assuming that I need to crank them down and that will depress the lifter and make it all fit.

All of them have gaps, both cams. Does wrenching them down in order press the valves down thus closing the gap?

I am putting back together my 2.5 (blown HG). The problem I am having is the front cam caps are not sitting on the head flush, there is a gap. I have not tried to wrench them down yet in fear of stripping the head. What is the trick for getting those cam's to sit deeper? Pic inclosed. Thank You for any help

800 for a OBW with a blown HG is high. If the smell is that bad you may never be able to get it out. Sounds like this is a 300 parts car.

With no emissions you have an endless supply of 2.2's pre 95.

So it can be done. What did you do for the EGR? Do you pass emissions?

I am replacing the HG on my 2.5. They are the little black plastic peices in the corner. They look like they had grey sealant. The engine shop said I should use glue.

2.2 is your best bet, I did not notice any loss.

I need to install the 1/2 moon plastic peices 2 per head they fit in the corner. What is the proper method? Thank You

Someone on this thread stated that step 3 is wrong and should not read to back them off again 180.

So I understand.. Step 6 states 90 degree's. Should there be a step 7 that states another 90 degree's for all bolts? That info I pasted in came from a Subaru manual.