msmithmmx

The cam and crank seals, they come packed with some grease. Is that high temp grease?

I picked up a 30 inch pipe, came off with a little effort. I think I found the problem....

Your not kidding, my craftsmen 400 lb torque was useless. Of to Homedepot for a 2 foor pipe

I have the engine on a stand. I think I will try my Impact gun in the AM if no one chimes in that I will break something.

I am trying to remove the head bolts from my 2.5 (engine out). I am using a 18 inch 1/2 breaker bar 14mm star pattern, they will not budge. Any problems with using an 1/2 impact gun? I am so tempted to pull it out...

It is my understanding that for the 2.2 the 95 is the only year of the dual port exhaust. If this is correct and your 96 2.2 is a single port you will need a new exhaust y pipe. Take look at and your new engine to confirm. Other then that no issues.

Going to make this simple for you as I have done the 2.5 to 2.2 on a Legacy Outback. I recommend the 2.2 swap any day of the week. I am actually in the middle of a 2.5 head gasket replacement and I can tell you that when its all done I will have spent 300 to 400 in machine work and seals. From the donor car (450 dollars tops) 1) Engine / use the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 donor 2) AC Compressor you must keep and hoses from your 2.5 mount onto the 2.2 This is if you remove the compressor, I like it out of the way during the swap. 3) Metal Power steering lines from the 2.5 move them over 4) The fly-wheel from the 2.5 will have to be moved over to the 2.2. From Subaru 1) All new exhaust gaskets (10 dollars) 2) new o-rings for the AC hoses you disconnect 3) new o-rings for the power steering lines you disconnect From Walmart 1) 2 cans of 12 oz refrigerant and a refill hose (30 bucks) While you are at it replace this on the 2.2 donor (100 bucks) an easy to do with the engine out. 1) Harmonic balancer (50 ebay) 2) AC and Alternator belts (20 pepboys) 3) Rear cam seal (5 dollars) 4) Oil Separator Plate (sure to be leaking, original is plastic) (15 dollars) 5) Rear main seal. (20 dollars) 6) Spark Plugs (10 dollars) 7) PCV Valve ( 8 dollars) 8) Valve cover gaskets (2 of these) and grommets for the bolts (30 dollars) 9) Reseal the oil-pan and replace both gaskets that are internal. (RTV temp sealer 4 bucks, gaskets are 10 bucks)

I agree, I looked at it closer and it just a rubber insert that seals it up.

I have a 96 2.5 OBW that I am doing the head gasket on. The harmonic balancer was shot and needed to be replaced. I found one from a 98 2.5 Forester for 15 bucks at the bone yard. They look different but my guess is they can be interchanged. Here is a pic, the original is on the left. Does anyone know?

Here is the edwrench doc. My guess is you have the crank in the wrong position. The arrow should be pointing right not up http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

Can I have his info so I can buy it.

I was starting the HG job on my 96 2.5 with 190K (engine out). I ran into something, I used my impact gun to remove the bolt that holds in the harmonic balancer. I noticed that it took next to no effort from the gun to remove the bolt. That’s when it all started… 2 things I noticed. The keyway on the harmonic balancer is shot and there is a hole on the plastic timing belt cover where the balancer had warn into it at some time. I was thinking no big deal at this point….. Now I noticed what my question is about, the bolt screws back in but it has a lot of play (I can wiggle it all little) in any direction. I can screw it all the way but for the last turn and it still has play. Not until I screw it down does it get tight. I think this is my problem. The bolt does looked stretched around the grooves. Needless to say I went and ordered a bolt from the dealer. Could I chase the hole or tap it out if the new bolt has play if so does anyone know the size of the chase or tap I would need. Note: the bolt goes in about a 1/2 inch before there are any threads, this appears to be normal because I do not see any worn threads, could anyone confirm this for as noraml. Has anyone ran into the overall problem before.

I purchased a rad thinking they were all the same for my 98 manual OBW. I picked up one up from an automatic. Can I just have the holes plugged? for the transmission cooller lines?

Ok, so it just a legacy. 200K and a 11 years old. I would say 2K if it has no rust and the tire's are half descent. The engine swap does not scare me.

Easy one. Will a 95 Impreza 2.2 go into a 98 Legacy OBW. I have done several legacy to legacy OBW but never a Impreza. Anyone?

I used the Subaru OEM metal/rubber gasket and a 16 dollar waterpump Ebay style. I did coat the gasket with sticky tac (waterpump side only then placed it onto the waterpump. I then mounted the waterpump to the block.

If your temp sensor fails it will leave a open on the ckt.

I purchased a 6 ton no name press off Craigs list. I bent the frame of the press trying to seperate the hub from the knuckle. 50 bucks down the drain. If someone can confirm a harbor freight press would work I would buy one. My local shop wants 50 bucks per knuckle to press.

Can you rent or buy a fuel pressure tester. They are not hard to install and use. This will test your fuel pump.

If I jack the car up one side at a time, the wheel has no play. The grinding noise is when the car is in motion no brakes applied. if I am crusing down Rt1 it goes away. I hear it at slow speeds.

The wheel does not budge when its on the ground. I do hear a grinding noise from that wheel when I am driving.

98 OBW 190K, Fixing problem after problem and I have a tie rod question. The tie rod that connects the steering rack to the knuckle. I am able to swivel both tie rods passenger and driver side by hand, is this a problem? should I be able to move them by hand. My other OBW I am unable to. Reason I looked was I have inner wheel balding on the driver side.

Altenator, Just changed mine with a pepboys a 120 bucks. Took me 1 hour.

It does not end. On the way to get it re-inspected I broke down. The Alternator seized up. Now that I am nearing 200K I am getting hit left and right. I forgot to mention that I also have a bad inner tie rod that was causing the inner ware on the front tire.

Do I need to clean the grease out that came with the bearing? if so what shoud I use?