msmithmmx

I am going to think about it today, regarding that oil pump. Everything is bone dry and I am not sure I want to spend the time pulling off that crank pulley. It seems like I could be wrestling for days with it.

should I thread lock everything on the front of the engine as I remove and put back on to do all the seals?

One last seal question, should I replave the front crank seal if it is dry as a bone.... The engine has 150K on it

What the store name for this stuff and can I get it at pepboys?

What turned out to be just replacing the driverside front cam seal has now turned into a "lets replace everything on the front of the engine" along with replacing those front cracked timing belt covers. The question, i am doing the water pump (after market, 16 bucks) but I did buy a OEM gasket. Is the gasket good enough or should I also use a thin bead of RTV. Please wiegh in. The engine is a 95 2.2

Two questions ,,,, 1) When installing the new seal do I coat the sides with a grease (the manual says to apply grease), what kind should I use. Also, 2) do I need to use a blue thread locker?

I got it out with a thin flat head screw driver. I banged it between the housing and the seal. I have a little pit but not on the rim that counts. The next question...... How do I get the new one back in....

OK, I am in the process of removing the cam seal and it will not come out. I have torn it somewhat and it still will not budge. Any tricks, I soaked it in multiply penatrating oils with no luck. Help Please

I had the same issue. I went to Pepboy's purchased a rebuild for 88 bucks with a lifetime warrenty, it has been working for for 6,000 miles.

I cleaned my PM's out. I sent a reply

is this a 2.2 or 2.5? If it is a 2.5 CHECK to make sure you do not have any overheating issues.

I have a working pump. Let me know

I can't make anything out 100%, just when I am about to say you have rod knock it goes away. What were you thinking you had?

I almost fell over at the price you were quoted for those bearings. Next Summer I am doing my own, I was thinking a 100 bucks for the bearings several curse words, PB Blaster and a free press rental from autozone.

First, I found 2 or 3 Sub's on ebay at or around 3G's. As far as me being usefull, I have done 2 of these swaps and would have helped you up untill that post. I put my frustation aside and wish you luck becuase after all your getting a sub back on the road.

Try www.uship.com Put down what you are willing to spend for the tow and see if you have anytakers. You may find someone comeone home from that area looking to make a few bucks. This site rocks.

When I say 3 g's thats Ebay price and to me thats the REAL Blue Book value and i would say the value for others on this board. The other price is what that car is worth with a blown head gasket, and thats 500 bucks. I have one in my garage I bought for that. Here is my question for you. Have you ever removed 10 or more bolts on your engine at one time? if not I would urge against doing the job yourself unless you have some help from someone who has done this before.

You have a busted fan resistor. It is located behind the glove box. When you pull it out it is box shapped and constuicted of metal with holes all around. I have one if you are looking.

I have a heater motor for a 95 legacy, if you send me a pic of the motor I can check to see if the one I have will work. let mem know

You owe 5 G's in on a 99 OBW that is worth 3 G's working. By the time you have this all fixed your another 3 g's in. I would say cut your loss unless you can do all the work yourself. I purchased a 97 OBW with a blown HG for 500 bucks ( the trans was working) that all its worth in that condition.

When your car is at temp carfully place your hand on the lower radiator hose and make sure its hot and NOT cold. You should also feel the fluid moving as you hold the hose.

You were right I don't have any of the egr stuff. Can I just move a 2.5 manifold over with everything? There also seem to be a metal pipe from the egr back into the head, I can't see any hole on my 2.2 to retro fit the head?

A 2.2 Engine from a Manual 97 Impreza into a Automatic 98 Legacy OBW, will there be any issues that I need to be worried about?

What you have all helped me with to date 1) Replaced Bad AC/Heater resistor. Now all speeds work for the interior fan 2) Busted Coolant Temp Sensor. THIS MUST BE REPLACED OEM 3) AC Clutch not turning on, I will do a leak test this weekend. What would all of this have cost at the dealer?

I tested with the gauges. There is 0 charge in the system. And that explains why the clutch will not come on