msmithmmx

Please take you OBW to the hospital for a check-up from the plug up STAT.

From your description and the amount of oil you are loosing your problem is #34 on that pic. The oil seperator plate (14 bucks). And yes you have to pull the engine to get to it. 99% sure

Are you telling me that a JDM off Ebay will not work since it is Turbo. I do not have turbo

Anyone take a 2.5 JDM and fit it into a gold old American Subaru. The only thing I can see that needs to be changed is the air intake manifold:headbang:

You are brave, 600 miles 10 days after a head gasket replacement. I would make sure to drive that car every dave before you go to make sure the head gasket replacement works. I would have them replace any seals they see leaking while they have the engine apart.

Why are you swapping the intake? Here is my stock answer Going to make this simple for you as I have done the 2.5 to 2.2 on a Legacy Outback. I used a 97 2.2. From the donor car (450 dollars tops) 1) Engine / use the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 donor 2) AC Compressor and hoses from your 2.5 mount onto the 2.2 3) Metal Power steering lines from the 2.2 move them over 4) The fly-wheel from the 2.5 will have to be moved over to the 2.2. From Subaru 1) All new exhaust gaskets (10 dollars) 2) new o-rings for the AC hoses you disconnect 3) new o-rings for the power steering lines you disconnect From Walmart 1) 2 cans of 12 oz refrigerant and a refill hose (30 bucks) While you are at it replace this on the 2.2 donor (100 bucks) an easy to do with the engine out. 1) Harmonic balancer (50 ebay) 2) AC and Alternator belts (20 pepboys) 3) Rear cam seal (5 dollars) 4) Oil Separator Plate (sure to be leaking, original is plastic) (15 dollars) 5) Rear main seal. (20 dollars) 6) Spark Plugs (10 dollars) 7) PCV Valve ( 8 dollars) 8) Valve cover gaskets (2 of these) and grommets for the bolts (30 dollars) 9) Reseal the oil-pan and replace both gaskets that are internal. (RTV temp sealer 4 bucks, gaskets are 10 bucks)

I beg to differ, I am using NAPPA plugs and wires, after a year and a half I have had 0 troubles. Big push for OEM on USMB. To burn you guys up more, I will be installing a 14 dollar after market O2 Sensor in a few weeks

I am sure CCR does a great job, but nothing beats a 350 dollar motor with tranny off Ebay. Shop Ebay

My Stock answer to this question Going to make this simple for you as I have done the 2.5 to 2.2 on a Legacy Outback. I used a 97 2.2. From the donor car (450 dollars tops) 1) Engine / use the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 donor 2) AC Compressor and hoses from your 2.5 mount onto the 2.2 3) Metal Power steering lines from the 2.2 move them over 4) The fly-wheel from the 2.5 will have to be moved over to the 2.2. From Subaru 1) All new exhaust gaskets (10 dollars) 2) new o-rings for the AC hoses you disconnect 3) new o-rings for the power steering lines you disconnect From Walmart 1) 2 cans of 12 oz refrigerant and a refill hose (30 bucks) While you are at it replace this on the 2.2 donor (100 bucks) an easy to do with the engine out. 1) Harmonic balancer (50 ebay) 2) AC and Alternator belts (20 pepboys) 3) Rear cam seal (5 dollars) 4) Oil Separator Plate (sure to be leaking, original is plastic) (15 dollars) 5) Rear main seal. (20 dollars) 6) Spark Plugs (10 dollars) 7) PCV Valve ( 8 dollars) 8) Valve cover gaskets (2 of these) and grommets for the bolts (30 dollars) 9) Reseal the oil-pan and replace both gaskets that are internal. (RTV temp sealer 4 bucks, gaskets are 10 bucks)

To Clarify 1) You will need the AC Compressor and hoses from the 2.5. 2) You will need the metal power steering lines from the 2.2 donor car. They discoonect right above the front cross member. 3) If you go with the 2.2, I suggest you reseal what you can during the swap

A 2.2 for 400.00 is to much, I would offer 200.00. Given no facts. you may have to reseal the engine. The 2.2 swap needs a few things other then the motor. Make sure the 2.2 includes the exhaust manifold. 1) Engine / use the exhaust manifold from the 2.2 donor 2) AC Compressor you must keep and hoses from your 2.5 mount onto the 2.2 3) Metal Power steering lines from the 2.5 move them over 4) The fly-wheel from the 2.5 will have to be moved over to the 2.2.

You will also need to remove the pitching stopper, that rubber connecter in the engine bay that connects the engine to the transmission, O2 Sensor and radiator upper brackets. Don't forget to drain the oil.

When I replaced the gasket (RTV) the engine was out. With the engine in the cross member is blocking you from getting access. Bottom line, this is a big job with the engine in. CAUTION !!!! You will need a engine pick to support the engine from above as you will need to remove the lower crossmember and exaust.

The system is factory.

For the past 6 months the alarm system on my 98 OBW is being set off by other people locking or unlocking their cars. When I am at the mall it goes off at least once and my next door neighbor sets it off every morning. Do I have a failing alarm system module? What to do... Other makes and models not just sub's set it off

Wow, I just saw your specifics. You have an extended warrenty to 100K for your head gasket for the 2.5. Can anyone give the specifics of the extended warrenty

I FEEL your pain. When my sub overheated I had it towed to a local shop were they told me my radiator was restricted, they replaced it for 450.00. On the way home from picking it up it over heated. The shop you went to as did I is better left to brake jobs and winshield wiper replacements. I would consider this a lesson learned but if you want to brake stones you could ask for the cost of labor back. In the end I opted not to replace the head gasket on my 2.5 and replaced the engine with a 2.2. Looking back if I had known about this website I could have saved that 450.00.

I am going to get piled on for this but check out EBAY. There I said it.

The devil is in the details. Its a 97 2.2 from a legacy. Its these timing marks that have me feeling like , everyone says something different.

I am getting ready to do the timing belt on my 2.2. I need to pull off the right side pulley to do the cam seal that is leaking like. Once it’s off and if it spins a little is there a method of getting it back to top dead center. Also what cylinder is Number 1. I suppose I could mark it but is there a better way. Also, I need to remove the crank pully, any pointers on this?

I did get an OEM off ebay for 16 bucks, it was for a 2.5. Since I am running a 2.5 ECU I though I would give it a chance. I saw the pic of the box, it is OEM

I am running a 2.2 with a 2.5 ECU. I was getting 23 MPG for the last year. It is now in the teens, I just ordered a O2 sensor off Ebay.

I have been thinking about this, a 2.2 would work. You would have to swap a few of the parts, flywheel power steering lines, AC lines, etc. Electronics would be fine, no need even to swap the ECU.

There is a quick and easy way. The 2.5 has the spark plugs sunken deep into the rocker covers. The 2.2 are right on the top.

Before you drop that 2.5 in, tell us about it and we can tell you what to replace on it, seals, belts etc. There is alot of easy work that can be done while it is out. I think a 2.2 would have worked, any specifics why it would not, did they say?