msmithmmx

The induction heater is in it's own league. My local shop used that to remove rusted driveshaft bolts on an old truck I was working on. $500 is just too much for one use a year. I am a home mechanic I do not need long lasting bits. The bits I was using were $5 Dewalts. Use a few times and move them over to the bit box for wood use. Just saying the titanium bit cut like butter for one use.

98 OBW 200K. So a simple ball joint replacement turned into a 3 week ordeal. Started as a loose front passenger side wheel bearing. I fixed that by tightening up a very loose axle nut. While in there I noticed that most of the suspension boots were rotted and leaking. Off with the knuckle. With the knuckle out the hub was loose. That's not good so maybe I did have failing wheel bearing. While taking out the ball joint I cracked the iron casing with too much pressure in the slit with a chisel to remove the ball joint. Here is why this took weeks. I ordered a used knuckle off eBay from a 2000 Forester. I did have to ream the camber hole out very very slightly. It was a rusted mess in that hole due to an aftermarket camber bolt that was used. The Pinch bolt snapped along with a dust cover bolt. The bearing on the replacement knuckle was REALLY shot At this point I figured that any 20 year old knuckle is going to be in this shape. I went for the rebuild on the eBay knuckle that was on life support. Drilled out the dust shield bolt with a DeWalt 1/4 titanium bit and tapped with 5/16 - 18 tap. Chased the rest of the dust shield bolts and the ABS sensor bolt with the same tap. Drilled out the ball joint pinch bolt with DeWalt 5/16 Cobalt bit. Wished I had a titanium bit. My opinion titanium is better. I used a Grade 8 bolt from Lowes with some adjustments. I had the shop that pressed in the new wheel bearing cut the access off the new pinch bolt cleanly. See pic for part numbers. All the relevant parts I used for this job are below. I took the Duralast challenge and purchased the premium pads lifetime warranty and rust free rotors with three year warranty. I probably paid 3X the amount for the typical pads and rotars Knuckle from 2000 Forester $50 Ebay Ball Joint - AC Delco 46D2183A $16.81 Amazon Brake Pads - Duralast DGC721 $41.99 Autozone Rotars - Duralast 31247DG $36 X 2 = $72 Autozone Camber Bolt - Subaru 20540AA090 $10.34 Ebay Wheel Hub - Dorman 930-500 $21.99 Amazon Wheel Bearing - GMB 758-0003 $18 Amazon Inner Tie Rod Set with Boots - 1ASTE00114 $33.39 (only needed one boot) Ebay Ball Joint Bolt - Hilman 008236705829 3/8-18 X 2-1/2 (This will need to be trimmed) $1.21 Lock washer 008236706314 3/8 Alloy Steel $1.09 Hex Nut 08236706611 3/8-16 $1.09 Shop work $50

With the engine in? I see no way to swing a ????

Did the RTV fix the leak? I see no way to get any leverage to replace the cap with the engine in.

Used a chisel to separate a little to release the ball joint and I think I cracked it. One thing to note. Before I removed the knuckle the wheel had no play so I thought the wheel bearing was fine. On the bench the hub was loose. I am guessing the axle held it tight not giving up the secret of a failed wheel bearing.

Some lighthearted fun. Some simple maintenance has turned into a pita. What is this and what is the problem?

The clicking is most likely an axle. Do not use aftermarket. I think we all agree here on that. Get a used oem axle off ebay or here. Typically green color on the outer sockets. The rear noise is most likely suspension. Is it original?

I thought that was normal. You described how my car shifts when cold.

I use the Veepeak Mini WiFi OBD2 OBD II. Never hangs. Keep in mind this is Wi-Fi. It will impact your internet access on your phone. That is who I use a old discounted phone for this purpose. Torque is also good. Live data and reads codes. That one is 4.99.

Had this happen a few times. Purchased exact worn tire of eBay for under $75. Take measurement off tire search eBay

I use a Wi-Fi odb2 connector with palmer dashcommand running on my andriod. Total solution under $25. Seriuos live data.

Here is a writeup I did with part numbers. Our cars are hitting 20 years of operation. I went with new parts. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156761-outback-rusted-exhaust-stud-broken-new-exhaust/?fromsearch=1

You need to unbolt the center carrier bearing from the chassis. That will give you enough play on the drive shaft to remove it. You will need to remove the dust cover to get to the carrier bearing. You will need to get the exhaust out of the way as well. You can't drive without the front drive shaft.

Before you start sourcing parts you may want to figure out why that drive shaft end is not pulling out of the transmission. The way it broke it looks like the transmission siezed and the rear differential kept spinning and tore the drive shaft from the u joint

Can you post a sound clip?

Nothing from the heat shield. Maybe a rock. I am going to disconnect the drive shaft and spin it. I have a gut feeling the roller bearing 806325020 is worn. Maybe even the entire flag is rusted out. Part for that is 38358AA000.

I second a new used drive shaft. I may have the cable you need let me know.

I had the 16 flashes, bad torque bind, bad gas mileage, slamming into park, hard shifting. All fixed. Now that things are quite in the center I can hear that from the rear. No play on the drive shaft. Maybe rust. Are there bearings back there that wear?

Just rebuilt tail housing on the transmission. Now I can hear other things going on. This is a 98 OBW 250k. Are there races in the front end of the rear differential that gets noisy? I do have some rust there. Here is a clip I recorded with back wheels up in the air a little and I was spinning the wheels. Sounds like it is coming from where the drive shaft connects to the differential.

How can you be sure your duty c solenoid is bad after you removed it? I bench tested the old duty-c solenoid by hooking it to a car battery. Green to red and black to black. There as no clicking. I tested a another spare I have and it clicks with each touch of the battery.

You had me at " often the overflow tank will boil". Odds are 95% that you have a bad head gasket. 5% chance you have trapped air in the system.

I started this thread about 5 years ago. I finally got around to fixing this issue. In 5 years I put about 15K miles on her. I replaced several things including the AT reduction gear. I choose not to file down the grooves. I figured I was doing the work myself and saving on that end. I am thinking about doing a procedure for this but for now I will list the part numbers I used. The transmission shifts like butter now. Now sure I even had the skill 5 years ago to do this. If you have not had your exhaust off in the past few years this task could be doubled in effort and price if you need to start replacing exhaust parts that you are cutting out. I replaced almost my entire exhaust about 6 months ago. I did replace the transmission control module 5 years ago and that did not fix the issue. Just denial of what the real problem was. I am guessing a shop would have been $1,800 for this entire job with parts. Next on my list is a complete AC system replacement. See you in 5 years 31337AA120 GASKET TRANS CASE REAR $9 31523AA410 PLATE SET- TRF CLUTCH $115 31942AA090 VALVE AY TRANSFER CLUTCH $95 31954AA071 Gasket transfer Valve Need 2 $3 31952AA030 PLATE-TRANSFER VALVE $2 31450AA260 GEAR COMPLETE-REDUCTION DRIVE $145 (This is the basket that has the worn grooves) 31377AA020 Ring Seal Need two for the half shaft $10 806536020 THRUST BEARING $8 4409 EagleBHP Transmission Mount $20

I wish I had this 10 years ago. I wasted 2 hours tring to seperate the engine and trans. I never knew about that little secrete trap door to get to the bolts conecting the flywheel to the torque converter.

So I understand this. You have the 16 flashes but unable to read codes? If that is the case follow this procedure in the link below. You will need to find the two black test wires that are wrapped in the wiring harness under the driver side dash. If you can't find it I can send you a pic of the connectors. This is my theory.... Years ago people complained of the head gasket issue. Now as we hit 20 years transmissions are wearing out. 20 Years or 200K miles take your pick on what is worse. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121116-at-light-flashes-16-times-what-to-do/?hl=msmithmmx&do=findComment&comment=1021625

The part looks fine to me. It is made of steel and rubber. The only OEM part I would seek out at this point are head gaskets and axle's