msmithmmx

Hello and thank you for this information. After reading your reply I did not move on it.

Hello, I have a 98 OBW 235K with a tired transmission. I have a real good lead on a 99 OBW. Any issue with interchange? I swear I looked around before posting but not finding anything concrete either way.

Hello. I have a 98 OBW 230K . I am not saying this the right thing to do but I have been driving around with that light blinking for 2 to 3 years. I have already started the OBW overhaul and I am planning on replacing the clutch pack and duty-c solenoid this summer. I am concerned about doing it because after several searches it never seems to end well when people have tried this. I think there is an exact orientation that things need to be in when placing the rear of the transmission back on that no one gets right.

I purchased a rear cat "Walker" off Amazon for less then $200 bucks. It works fine. I have a 98 OBW

Just my two cents. If you are not leaking exhaust I would not touch that connection. It looks fine.

When you put it in park does it jump forward or make a thump sound. Your issue sounds like mine but I am getting a flashing light on my dash. I have a old tired duty c solenoid and probably a warn clutch pack to go with it.

When it gets warmer I will go for it along with a list of other items that need to get done on a car with 235K miles on it. I am guessing $125 in parts and 8 hours. Any merit in replacing the clutch pack while I am in there? Can I even do it with the jack stand method?

Slow turns are ok. From time to time i do feel some torque bind on real sharp turns. Anything else in there i should replace when i am in there. Nipper. Lately my mpg is bad lost 50 to 75 miles on tank

Thank you so much. I finally have a code. I am getting 24 duty-c solenoid. Can I fix this is the garage? Is it a big deal?

Hello I have a 98 OBW AT 235K miles. I have searched high and low before posting. For the past 2 years my AT Oil Temp light has been blinking. I have tried to pull the codes by grounding the pin on the black plug yet this has never worked for me. I can get the ABS light to blink so I know I am doing it right. I replaced the TCU, no change. I flushed the ATF fluid 2X, no change. With no code is it worth throwing additional parts at this. I have driven the car 100+ miles and it shifts and runs fine. Any idea's? Maybe I should just leave it alone...

I recommend the following. Purchase the bearing and seal kit off eBay for 50 bucks. You need high temp grease (red stuff). Remove the knuckle and take all of the parts to your local shop and have them do all of the press work. That will cost 50 to 75 bucks. Make sure you notch the strut and camber bolt. This should prevent the need for an alignment. Total cost is 100 to 130. Could take all day depending how easy all of the bolts come out. My job turned out to be a nightmare when the bolt that held the speed sensor in broke along with the bolt that was holding in the caliper mount.

Another Update. So I found the ground wires but I am unable to get the code. I do get the ABS light to give me a code and I can get the seatbelt light to blink. The AT light still blinks at start-up when the car has been driven for about an hour. I am starting to think temp sensor. I need to see that code before I spend any money on this. If I can get a TCU for real cheap I may swap it.

I found those ground pins last night. Tried every hole. I am unable to get any code. Does not even flash once. Where should the position of the key be?

I decided not bring it in. If anything is wrong its going to cost me at least 400.00 on the low end. I am waiting the clock out.... If I every get the diagnostic light to work I will drop the pan myself and replace what is needed.

I found the connector but not the ground wires. I really do not want to start cutting into the electrical tape holding the harness together. I tried grounding it out myself and no good, nothing happened

98 OBW with 231K. I changed the ATF fluid a few months ago and added locus oil additive. After a trip of at least an hour I have the AT Temp light flashing 16 times when I start the car up after that long trip. I tried the secrete handshake procedure to grab the code with zero luck. Should I bring to the dealer for $95 an hour to troubleshoot or just wait the clock out on this thing and hope for the best. It shifts ok, always had a hard 1 to 2 and there is no torque bind. The LAST thing I want to do is drop 600 bucks on this thing. Dealer told me that I am looking at least 400.00 if it is a solenoid or temp sensor. What to do

This is a very political question. OEM Used off eBay or new from dealer.

For $65 I am getting the feeling he is doing a split boot. Please do not do a split boot. Get a new axle it will probally be cheaper.

I would not adivise any serious pounding with the axle in the diff. Sounds like you are ok.

I just posted about a nasty steering wheel shake. The tire came from the rear of the car where the strut and spring have 230K on. This was the only strut on my car this old and the only tire with the exact problem as you have. Its the strut

The press is a big tool. To much room to store if its something not used often. Bring the knuckle and bearing to a shop and let them do it.

Is that price with the bearing?

I rotated the front tire to the back and the steering wheel shake is gone. I still have that clicking from what I think is tha axle. I still think it has something to do with the suspension work

Hello. I have a 98 OBW w/ 230K. Recently had the car inspected and it failed. At the same time I had the tires balanced. I brought it home and replaced the rear wheel bearing driver sider (took the knuckle off). I also replaced both rear struts and springs. I passed inspection but now I developed a nasty steering wheel shake and a clicking from the front driver side axle a week after. I never had an alignment. Could it be out of alignmnet so bad to cause all of this? I am guessing I damaged the front axle by driving 100 miles. About 50 miles into the trip is when it all started. I can replace the axle in an hour but I am concerned this is not the root cause. What do you think

This is just my experience, I have gone 50K miles with a completly torn boot. If you took care of it soon you would only need to have the boot replaced. If you let it go the axle might need to be replaced. You need to weigh the risk.