Leeroy

1. Do I need to drain the motor oil before I remove the head? It is not a necessity to remove the oil but if you are taking the engine out anyway it is a simple, additional, step. The oil will leak out if the engine is not kept perfectly level. 2. If there is no damage to the cylinder and or piston can I just swap out the entire head assembly with a known good piece without any settings or adjustments (besides torquing down the actual head)? I have never just removed one head, although I suppose it can be done. Technically you should re-do both heads (and have the surface of the heads machined flat). The valves have to be adjusted once the head job is done, as you would do if you were only re-torquing the heads. 3. How much volume of oil is this motor supposed to take? I put just under 2 quarts in it and the dipstick is nearly full. There is certainly more than 2 quarts of oil in the engine (including filter), I cannot remember exactly (my manuals are not in front of me ATM) but it is something like 3.5 to 4.5 litres so that would be more like 4 quarts. I am sure someone else can comment on the correct oil capacity.

Great photos Pooparu! Although that interior shot is an R2 not a Leone and therefore would make it a second gen!?!

Why heli-coil when you can Timesert?

First and only post, nothing to say really... Looks like spam and probably tastes like it too!

The BRZ/86 platform as it is currently cannot use AWD so there is no need to worry about a Toyota badged WRX. Subaru is also unlikely to 'give' Toyota its flagship, 'hero' model. Also, while Subaru is on a sales 'wave' I doubt they will care what Toyota wants! After all, Toyota's shares are in Fuji Heavy Industries not Subaru.

A quick search of Rock Auto (for the Brat not Brumby) brought up an expansion or TX valve by Global Parts Distributors # 3411237. This suits a lot of Japanese cars and quite a number of them are listed on eBay US at the moment.

It has to be a factory (Subaru) parts catalogue (not a service manual). Only these list chassis numbers. Contacting Subaru Japan is not easy as they generally require you contact them in the country you live. For example I would contact Subaru Australia with my questions. I did a quick search and it appears Subaru does have an email address for Japan. There is a inquiry form but it is in Japanese and to be used by people who reside in Japan: http://www.subaru.jp/faq/inquiry/

I think a sedan 86 is a great idea! Small, light and Rwd. What's not to like? It's not an Impreza though, the 86/BRZ architecture places the engine too low and too far back for that!

Looks like this one, so a '73... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125098-saved-a-tailgate-wagon-from-the-crusher/?hl=%2Btailgate+%2Bwagon

Hey Kostas, one suggestion I have would be to search for a ff-1 parts catalogue. The front section lists the range of chassis numbers applicable to the catalogue. This may assist you but it will not give you specific numbers. I do not think it would be possible for anyone to give you the chassis numbers of FF-1s sent/sold to Greece. I doubt Subaru Japan would have this information now. Is the original Greek importer still around? I still cannot imagine they would have kept any records from that time (if they are still in business). It would have all been paper records then! Good luck in your search for an ff-1!

Basically you have a gearbox with a top mount starter, if you intend to keep your engine you need to find a bellhousing from a later EA71 'fat case' engine (side mount starter) and swap this over. You can then fit a five speed 4wd transmission. It is still not a bolt-in proposition, however, as there is not much room in a Gen 1 Brat where the steering joint and DOJ are located and the width of the five speed transmission will want to 'fill' that space. Others have done it so it can be done but it is not simply a bolt-in and drive away. This is covered almost every week! A quick search should give you plenty of results.

Hi Mariano Unfortunately the EA63 manifold my not be suitable, sorry to get your hopes up! The thermostat housing is in the middle of a EA63 intake manifold not to the side like the EA71: I am not sure this would suit the Weber. The EA63 has the same positioning of the intake manifold, however:

Not easy to scan the original electrical diagrams (they are quite large once folded out!) but these may be of some assistance:

There are only 2 holes in a dual carb head not 4...

I realise there would be some mucking around with the water passage but you could try shortening it to suit the EA71. I have the reverse, a dual carb EA71 intake manifold that has been 'cut and shut' to lengthen it so it fits on an EA81. This would mean you are not destroying the EA71 manifold. You never know, the owner may want to rebuild the original carbs in the future. Certainly twin Hitachis with out perform one Weber! On my manifold there was a small section cut out of the water passage so the fuel/intake passage could be welded up and then an new piece of alloy added to the water passage to seal it up. I am sure it would be easier when you are making it shorter! And to junk250, it is not possible to mount two Webers side by side as they are be too wide for the manifold. Otherwise everyone would be doing it! A shame you are so far away too, I have several EA63 manifolds (same dimensions as the EA71) you could use for modification!

There are pics on this forum: http://www.rotaryforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13716

Dual carb heads only have two holes/studs for the exhaust header, not four.

Thanks for the replies and confirmation. I suppose that means there are three different stages of EA71 then, early, middle and late!! Must be time for a Gen 2 5 speed for that fat case too!

Why not use Timeserts or Bigserts? These work far better than helicoils IMO (they do not tend to unscrew) and are easy to install once you have the install tool. http://www.timesert.com/index.html

I have just tried to fit a fat case EA71 to my 1974 sedan. Unfortunately this is not the straight forward swap I hoped it would be! The later fat case engine has a pilot bearing pressed into the flywheel (like EA81 engines) while the EA63 engine uses a small needle roller bearing that is pressed into the end of the crankshaft. This means the EA63 4 speed gearbox is not compatible with the fat case engine as the bearing arrangement means the engine and gearbox do not join up. it does fit together without the bearing in the flywheel but unfortunately it is not possible to fit a needle roller bearing into the fat case crankshaft as the hole is too large. I am using the EA63 bellhousing and clutch because I would like to keep the original 4 speed. So my question to the board is (before I remove another engine!), does the early EA71 engine with external water crossover use the small needle roller bearing in the crankshaft like the EA63? My thinking is that it does but I would like to have this confirmed before I make another attempt.

Congrats on the new purchase, O.C.D did a lot of great work to bring that Brat back. Oh... And welcome to the USMB! Lots of good people here.

Firstly a 1980 Brat will have a top mount starter, all dual range transmissions are side mount starter... If you source a EA71 'fat case' bellhousing (side starter) that would be a start but there are still other issues such as the shifter linkages and in some instances the drivers DOJ might end up very close to the steering shaft. Having stated that, it has been done before! Might be a good idea to search the forum for previous threads on this subject as it does come up fairly often.

Always the tailgate! Have you checked the MV/BRAT/Brumby forum? UK based and members there have produced new replacement fiberglass tailgate skins.

All manual transmission Brats had 4 speeds from the factory, not 5. Not sure about the US but in Australia all Gen 2 Brats/Brumbys (and yours is a Gen 2) had dual range 4wd too.So something seems to be amiss. Are you sure you are pulling the 4wd lever all the way up for lo? There should be 2 discernable detents when you use the lever. Of course the transmission could have been swapped at some point.

Best to just source some EA81 heads. It would be a lot of unnecessary work (not to mention $$$$) to make use of the EA71 heads. Basically the pistons are set further apart in an EA81 block, as you have discovered!