Leeroy

EA71 valve cover gaskets are rectangular in shape while EA81 gaskets have one corner of the rectangle 'cut off' (hope that makes sense!).

Looks like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/?hl=%2Bengine+%2Bswap

OK Pooparu, what gives? Why the different wheels and tyres?

Yep that's the stuff... Might be a bit sticky on the jump seats though.

Glycerin is far better than silicone for rejuvenating and maintaining rubber. It is a little messy so you should only use the smallest amount. I use a rag to wipe it into the rubber and the following day wipe over it again to remove any excess. Glycerine actually rehydrates the rubber, where as silicone simply puts a coating on the surface.

You need the glass with the hole... It is my understanding you cannot make or drill a hole after the glass is made. If you try it will break!

Which trim? The 'chrome' trim along the sill has clips and it is very difficult to remove without breaking them. The rubber molding (or bump strips) would be held on with double sided tape or glue. These were never offered in Australia but the OEM parts catalogue does not list any clips and I have never seen these early models with holes in the panels (if they were clipped on).

No you cannot use a EA81 bell housing, it will not fit. You can use a 'fat case' EA71 bell housing with your current engine. This will allow you to fit a transmission with a side mount starter.

Yes, this is correct.

I imagine a 1400 5 speed would be like finding hens teeth! I believe you would also be limited to the tiny 1400 flywheel/clutch combination. It would possibly be easier to locate a bell housing from the later EA71 'fat case' engines. This allows you to fit the the later 5 speed transmission with the side mount starter and the larger 1600 flywheel/clutch combo.

Oh... A Hardtop! I should have realised when you called it a GF. Looks like it is in reasonable condition for a project. Some of the very late EA63 engines had dry sleeves like the EA71. If the engine number is higher than #914674 it will have dry sleeves and make rebuilding much simpler. Good luck!

Hmmm... the OP has not been active on the forum since May 2012... Perhaps not really a Subaru nut (like the rest of us!)?

Simplest way to get at the HVAC system is to remove the dash. Basically drop the steering column, undo the 6 or so bolts and remove the dash. Simple! You will then have compete access to the HVAC system. If you can feel heat I would imagine the problem is the the knob/cable that controls the air distribution through the system. Often the plastic lever that changes the heat setting breaks and the knob/cable no longer changes from hot to cold, this does not seem to be your problem. Also make sure the air is set to 'recirculation' so you are not drawing in outside air (Which I imagine would be bloody cold with 2 inches of snow!).

There always seems to be this idea the EA63 needs to be replaced by an EA71 or EA81 for better performance. However the EA63 actually performs great for only 1400 cc. A dual port EA63 will certainly rev out and perform better than the EA71 and the EA81 will only win because of its torque. In Australia the EA63 was a 'dirty' engine without pollution gear and its performance was certainly superior to the later 'clean' EA71. Especially in twin carb form.

A DIN sized unit will fit the the stock radio location with ease but yes will have to cut the it up and from the photos it looks too nice! It looks like you have A/C so not sure if there is enough room in the glovebox but this is where I would put it... Also can I ask what the switches are under the radio (and above the 4x4 lever)? Is this for the A/C? Never seen that before (AUS market did not get A/C from the dealers)...

It is either #807607062 or #807607052... If I was to guess I would say #807607052 (thermostat to manifold) is the one you are after. #807607062 goes from the manifold to the block. Sorry do not know if it actually has a name. There are generic ones on eBay such as this (from Australia though - I am sure there would be similar in the US): ebay hose As you are in the US I would just buy from one of the online Subaru parts retailers, way cheaper that that one! That's how I got mine and I am sure it was less than $10.00.

You absolutely MUST check the shelf/bulkhead were the spare tire sits in the engine bay (also check under the dash inside the car). This area is one of the worst areas for rust in the early Subarus and is very difficult and time consuming to put right. Rust in this area has seen the death of so many of these models. As this panel is made up of several layers of metal once rust gets a hold it is not an easy fix.

Worth it? Yes! There can never be enough 1970s Subarus saved... Looks like a later 1970s Brat/Brumby as the trim around the front indicators is silver and the door mirror is the later type.

SuperBrat is correct, common and the door handles are the same. You can also use a Gen 2 door handle but it is not quite a perfect fit.

Certainly not my experience! Yes they need to be cut (which means the top piece has to have a join) but with careful bending and shaping the result is as close to perfect as you can get. You have to look damn close to notice the join in the top piece and there is certainly no buckling in mine.

In line with Moosens comments, your wagon is a Gen 1 Stage 2.

Here's some more eye candy for you then.... And because I love a good GSR shot...

That would be a bumperless '74 DL Sedan... (If I recall correctly, a '75 and '76 would look the same)

Cool TriX, shows me exactly what grinding I need to do.

It's a straight swap, all the wiring matches up (there is even the yellow wire for the tach).