Leeroy

Ben the EA81's only came with 4 speed transmissions unless they were 2wd (or automatic of course). I think the biggest problem you will face is the CV joint assembly will interfere with the steering shaft/joint. If you search there is info on the USMB about what is required to modify EA81 (which are the same as EA71) gearbox mounts to fit the 5 speed. Some people cut the 'ears' of the mounts and weld on a new piece which is then bolted to the transmission, others elongate the holes in the mounts and the transmission crossmember to make it all fit. Some (GD?) have even made the EA82 mounts fit with lots of modification (they are a better design). There is also a USMB member called Jerry (IIRC) who makes a kit for fitting the 5 speed in the EA81 engined cars. Note your Brat originally had the EA71, I doubt Jerry's kit will work and there are some clearance issues, the previously mentioned steering problem is the one most come across and I am not sure if the width of the 5 speed creates issues in the transmission tunnel, especially if your Brat is not lifted. I should point out I have not done this conversion myself, although I keep thinking about trying it! The info I have kept in my head from reading through many posts on the subject over the years. Basically while not impossible there would certainly be some fabrication needed to get the 5 speed to fit, not the least of which is; Custom mounts Lengthened drive shaft (or use the EA82 drive shaft by installing the centre bearing mount to your trans tunnel - this seems relatively easy!) Custom shifter linkages or the original 5 speed stuff by modifying the trans tunnel to make them fit Some mucking around with the steering shaft/linkages so it can clear the CV joint assembly

Hmmm... Not exactly cheap but someone must have been reading this thread! eBay windscreen listing

81MV I am beginning to dislike you! Seriously not fair!

I find it strange these are hard to locate in the US. Basically no windscreens are manufactured in Australia any more, they are simply imported from China. The result is you can get gen 1 windscreens easily.

Idasho this guy did basically the same (OK there was cutting and welding!): cardomain link Others have mentioned elongating the holes in the mounts (and the crossmember too) to make them fit. So I would assume it works as you have done...

The adjustment bolt is on the Gen 2 models but not the Gen 1's... You can still adjust the rear ride height by re-clocking the torsion bars on each side.

[quote=6 Star; I love this catalogue (which is why I have one)! The first Japanese car fitted with both a 5 speed transmission and 4 wheel disc brakes.

deleted...

Come on Kosta, you are too close to completion to stop now!

+1 It would eventually do my head in if I attempted to drive like that! Better to make it right IMO...

The popcorn symbol basically means 'watching this thread with interest', or something to that effect. The factory specs for a EA71 are 8 degrees BTDC but you can ususally advance the timing a little, say 10 or 12. 22 degrees seems a bit excessive... Sorry not sure what would be causing that.

BlindSight, these are some motor mounts on eBay. I am sure you can get them elsewhere for less... Perhaps Rock Auto?

You may find the offset of those wheels is designed for a FWD situation. Wheels originally fitted to Gen 1 vehicles had an offset (or back spacing) more like a traditional RWD. Stock standard EA82 steel rims (not the white spoke style) will NOT fit on a Gen 1 vehicle. You may find these alloys are the same. Really, the only way is mount them and check.

+ 1

Just buy the SAAS boss! Yes they fit, yes they are good quality and they even fit both 6 hole steering wheels (Momo or Nardi hole pattern). They're solid metal castings too, not like those cheap pressed metal adapters with the rubber covers you see on eBay all the time. You really cannot go wrong... (And yes I have used three different SAAS bosses - '78 wagon, '87 RX sedan and even an Impreza at one stage).

Hey Pooparu, that rust usually comes from a leaking rear window seal. The water leaks down and is then soaked up by the rear seat cushion/foam. Because the foam is relatively deep the water never dries out and rust starts it's usual process of attacking metal... Does not look too bad on your coupe and I am surprised by the state to the front cowl! This is the usual rust area...

Interesting find on the net Pooparu! Not a '75, however, the grille, taillights and dash all suggest it is from '72 or '73. (Beaten by kiwi subbie!)

No, too short.

Not that his helps but you can buy them new in Australia from this company (click on the Products link and scroll down for sun visors): http://www.autocables.com.au/ But they are not cheap and I doubt it would be cost effective to ship to the US of A...

Yes you can block off the little coolant passage. I had this welded shut on mine but your suggestion should also work.

This is why I prefer my Weber carbs with threaded brass fuel inlet pipes. If they are on the wrong side you simply unscrew and swap... Simple. With the push fit style on this Weber I am not sure you can swap them around as easily. Perhaps you can tap threads in your Weber and fit the threaded inlet and brass bung? Also I notice from the photos you have the Redline generic throttle cable holder and throttle lever bracket on the carb. I would suggest these are junk and you should replace both with the original Subaru items. It is quite simple to change the throttle lever bracket from the original Hitachi to the Weber, just do not over tighten or the throttle will be sticky!

You should be able to use the original throttle cable without any issues if you use the Subaru throttle lever (from the original Hitachi carb) on the Weber. As much as I hate to say this, have you done a search? There are plenty of treads/posts on this forum about this conversion and will provide all the information you need.

I have a Weber on my 1600 (the wagon in my avatar). So much better than the Craptachi it's not funny!

That is what i ending up using! I replaced all the hoses so needed 3 brass elbows, if I remember correctly. Also means there are lots of hose clips needed but my set up has not leaked in over 5 years.

Yep the five holes definitely suggest it is a Grant wheel. As BEECHBM69 noted any generic horn button should work.