Leeroy

A master cylinder for 4 wheel drums will have two residual valves.

Residual valve is in the master cylinder and is only used for drum brakes:http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/residual-check-valve.html

Online manual... I doubt they're out there! However, there are usually plenty of OEM manuals on eBay.

I upgraded to a master cylinder/booster (servo) from a later Gen 1 wagon. You have to make sure you remove the residual valve in the master cylinder for the rear brake lines and make the hole in the firewall larger to fit everything. If the OP, Brett! upgrades his Brat he can use the original master cylinder/booster, just has to remove the residual valve from the rear brake line in the master cylinder.

Yes 1000 Pistes, from 4 wheel drums to 4 wheel discs.

Cool! What are your plans?

Simplest upgrade is the ventilated discs and rotors from a Gen2 (1983+). These brakes are mounted on my 1974 DL Sedan: As noted by others the rear disc brakes from turbo Gen 3 models can be made to fit, there is some grinding and cutting of the rear trailing arm but certainly well worth the effort!

I believe the internal sheet metal or radiator support panel is the same for the Gen 1 models (at least according to my parts catalogues) but, as noted by Brett the front skirt is different.

I think black rims with a silver edge (the alloy polished would work) like this example:

Nope...

Yeah the pics from Rust look fine on the mobile but stretched on the desk top...

Nice two door sedan... Strange that these always seem to have the automatic! I wonder if the wires to the carb and intake manifold are correctly connected? When I changed carbs on my sedan it did the same thing; start fine and then scream its head off! After I swapped carbs I realised I had mixed up the wires for the water temp and the idle cut off solenoid.

The problem with automatic seat belts is that they are not actually very good at doing what they are supposed to do - protecting the car's occupants. That may be part of the differing opinions!

Yep there are wiring kits for dual single headlights, cheaper too! I have been meaning to do this too...

Original rim 4 1/2 inches.

Brats must be undervalued where you live!

I must say try some Speed Bleeders! They make bleeding the brakes too easy, especially by yourself: http://www.speedbleeder.com/

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/191420390542

If you check out this link:http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page22.jpg In the top left hand corner is number 216.042. This is the only weather strip I am aware of that approximates the original subaru trim. It is more 'rubber like' than the OEM piece but it does fit using the original metal clips. I am not sure if Scott's Old Auto Rubber will ship to the US but perhaps you can find something with the same/similar profile as the pic? It is actually listed as being suitable for 1975 Subarus but I have used it on my 1978 wagon: http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/SUBARU%201975%20SEDAN.htm I will say it is a good substitute for the original but it does not seal against the glass as well as the OEM 'hard' weather strip.

Yes you can swap them. I would swap the handbrake cables and brake backing plates too.

Love the early 4wd wagons! Just slightly quirkier than the later ones.

Unleaded fuel is not a problem at all, it is all I have ever used in any of my old Subarus but (in Australia at least) Subaru does not recommend the use of ethanol in these models. Is it difficult to get unleaded without ethanol in the US? Not worth it in my opinion, less performance and more fuel used...

Always thought a Vintage Air Gen II Mini system would be ideal for our older models: http://www.vintageair.com/index.asp Completely replaces the existing heating set up, adds air conditioning and is small enough to fit under the dash and be completely integrated and unobtrusive.

Sounds like a bargain really! I say go for it... Early Brat/Brumby values can only increase so some time and money could be well spent.

No discs on the front originally as it came with front drum brakes (as in the first picture). Basically to fit the rear brakes requires some grinding of the backing plates and the cutting of a notch. Quite simple really! Another member on here has documented it here: http://suburuwagon.blogspot.com.au/search?updated-min=2013-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&updated-max=2014-01-01T00:00:00-08:00&max-results=1 Although those photos show the 4wd it is basically the same. Rear disc brakes were from a Vortex 2wd or XT as they are called in the USA.