Johnnyboy

Ok, i just got used to running a higher octane, cos the previous engine i had was a twin card EA81. doh! I'll drain it out and use it elsewhere, I'll try a tank of 91. I haven't looked for the old codes yet, but I've got the Knock Sensor comming up again, so i think I'll replace the knock sensor and see how that helps as well.

Leads seem to be ok.. It runs okish now, nice idle and revs very freely.. Only thing is, when you go out for a drive, it just revs slowly and pulls slowly.. like it was pulling a huge trailer or something. Foot to the floor and getting no where fast. No error codes and the boost gauge is reading up to 8 PSI boost. The Turbo is working hard, it gets plenty hot enough. Any ideas on this one?

Hey Ross, we need to catch up i think.. both being in CHCH and all

It was pretty common here in New Zealand, when the brumby (Brat) was the perfered farmers vehicle. We have a lot of open grass land and it often hilly, that can get wet and boggy. Fantastic grip, but terrible on harder surfaces, as in bad vibration through the wheels.

ok, well i replaced the MAF, now it idles fine and runs ok, but just no power. As in you put your foot down, the turbo boosts up to 7PSI and it accelerates like a three legged dog... with 3 legs tied behind it's back. REALLY bad. Shouid i be replacing the TPS just in case?

Ok, i've checked the TPS, it's ok, I cleaned the MAF and I've made sure the system is well earthed. I've got a fresh tank of 98 octane and i happen to put some injector cleaner in while i was at it. The fuel filter is clean. Now the damn thing won't run well at all. It won't even idle and if you try to pump the gas it has a bad hesitation and backfires somewhere in the engine. If you disconnect the MAF, it idles fine, but still has the hesitation and backfires etc. The timing seems to be fine and the ignition coil, spark plugs and cables are new. There still appears to be plenty of fuel pressure. I checked the thermo sensor, I've cleaned it contacts. After the engine warms up without the MAF connected, it idles where it should, so does that mean the thermo sensor is working ok? Have i screwed the MAF by cleaning it with spray contact cleaner? the wires look fine and it appares to be ok when tested with my multimeter. I get the error code 33, which seems to be the Knock Sensor, but it tests fine and to be honest, I've had that error before and the engine was running fine, plenty of get up and go. Any ideas worth checking?

mmmmmmmm dunkin donuts......

Ok thanks Subiemech85, I'll check the TPS out as well.

ok, i installed a boost gauge, it shows no more than 8 at 4500 rpm. I tried your idea, it made no difference, so i'm guessing it's not the overboost cut out. I'm now thinking it's an earthing problem, i need to perhaps attach more earth lines and recheck the earth on the ECU.

Hey guys and gals, I've got a quick question for you, I've installed a 1988 RXII 1800 MPFI Turbo engine, with the 5 speed constant 4wd D/R gearbox into my 1983 Brumby (Brat). It's been running perfectly, but suddenly last week, it started getting a savage engine cut out at 4500rpm, as in it seems the engine either lacks fuel or spark. I had just installed a new Accel super stock coil and leads, plus regapped the sparkplugs. I've since checked and tested all of these, including going back to the old items, but still the cut out remains. I get no error codes from the ECU and there is plenty of fuel getting through. Something that spung to mind, is that i had to change the vacuum hoses on the wastegate actuator and solenoid, so i wonder if i got them round the wrong way and this has caused a overboost cut out to happen? I haven't swapped them around to the alternative, as i'm not sure if this may help destroy the motor if they are correct to start with. Does that make sense? Does anyone have any suggestions or diagrams of how the vacuum lines connect between the wastegate and solenoid? Any help or suggestions would be great