EastCoastEJ22T

Moved it to the new gen section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122175

I don't see a specific pin on the TCU pinout that triggers the Torque converter lock-up. Does anyone know if the tourque converter is mechanically actuated or electrical?

I changed it out for my spare alt and the car is working fine. Just a fluke that it died right after I wired in the fan.

I tried switching the TPS wiring and still no torque converter lock up. It was worth a try.

Anyone else ......

I just finished wiring in a Flex-a-lite radiator fan on my eg33 swapped legacy. Ran the fan straight off the battery with a relay and spst switch. -I tested evrything out and it was working great. -Took the car out for a test run and the lights/stereo and gauges started to fade. -I shut off the fan and accessories and headed back home. -removed the fan wiring, and checked all the fuses and they are good. -Tested the alternator and its only making 10 volts..... Would the added load of the fan kill an alternator that was already on its way out?

I have both an obd1 scx tcu and obd1 legacy tcu already on hand. The wiring and pinots are not even remotely similar. You would have to rewire the complete sytem, and switch all the trans sensors over to the OBD1 versions. I am mainly looking for a method to replicate those two TCU pin requirements. Either by tapping into the SVX ecu or somewhere else in the body harness. I am not even sure what the AT diagnostics signal is for?

I have a 1995 legacy running an OBD1 Eg33 from a svx. I am using the obd2 legacy transmission and TCU. Basically..... I replicated the TCU to ECU interface from the 1995 legacy by splicing into the signals from the OBD1 svx ecu. In total there are 7 wires that go from the leg TCU to the leg ECU on my 1995. I have 5 of them figured out and spliced, but don't know what to do with the last 2 wires. --- LEG TCU ----- SVX ECU #1. B56-19 ----- B60-3 ======TPS power #2. B54-8 ------ B60-2 ====== TPS signal #3. B54-9 ------ B60-5 ======MAF signal #4. B54-5 ------ B61-16 ======Engine Speed Output #5. B55-16 ----- B59-20 ======Torque control signal #6. B56-16 ----- ??? =======Torque Control Cut Signal (no pin on ecu) #7. B55-11 ----- ??? =======AT diagnostics signal (no pin on ecu) The good: -The car shifts fine through all four gears. It pulls hard and acts normal, although maybe a little to aggressive on the up-shifts due to the lack of a Torque Control Cut Signal. The Bad: -The torque converter will not lock-up at highway speeds. -Flashing ATF light on start up, goes away after a few seconds and does not return. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Ian

She is fixed and up and running again. Both Crank Sensor #1 & #2 were toast. I would say they were cracked from age and on there way out and the ingress of water from the pressure washing took them out completely. Also found some cracks in the wiring, so I re-pinned and wired up the connectors. I fixed the wiring and tried out the old sensors, but she still would not fire up. Changed out the sensors and she runs like a top. Thanks for all the help and tips. Cheers, Ian

I was looking under my legacy the other day wondering why someone chopped off both tow hooks ..... and now I know.

On a few occasions I have used Cometic HG's with no complaints or problems. Not sure how they price up against OEM, but they worked for me so I will stick with them. http://www.cometic.com/ "And..... cue the negative responses....:popcorn:"

The shielding is pulled back 1/2" from where I did the splice. It could be a break/crack further up under the intake manifold. The wiring is very brittle and I think i was better off leaving it alone, but whats done is done. I have a spare Eg33 that I may strip the engine harness from and re-wire in the future. Thankfully this is not my 1st or 2nd mode of transport, she is really just a toy for thrashing on at the auto-x events.

Yeah it is an absolute monster. These Eg33's are really amazing engines. -non-interferance - 10.0:1 compression - 230hp/228tq -6800rpm redline -dual throttle bodies -coil on plug It will break traction shifting to 2nd, and thats with an old 4:11 4eat. Top speed is unknown, because it just keeps on pulling..... past any speed I care to travel on winter roads. Unfortunately I am swamped with work at the momment and temps outside are in the -30C with the wind chill. I ordered a bunch of used parts up on the "SVXnet". Should be receiving a ECU-MAF-Crank sensors and igniter sometime in the next few days. I will check some pins and voltages, hopefully its something simple. The next auto-X is Feb6th so it will be back on the road by then. I will shoot a video and post it up when I get the bugs worked out again. Cheers, Ian

All the fuses are good, there is power going into and signals going out off the ECU. I am getting these two codes. 11 ........ Crank Angle Sensor No. 1 ......... No Reference Signal 29 ........ Crank Angle Sensor No. 2 ................... No Signal Must be the sensors, or possibly the harness.

Hello, I have recently sucessfully completed swapping a 1992 OBD1 Eg33 into a 1995 legacy. The car was running perfectly with no cel's and pulled like a freight train. I had it out for some rally-x practice and coated the bay with muck/ice so I decided to de-grease and pressure wash the bay the other morning. Covered the alt and igniter to keep them from getting wet. Ran/drove the car afterwards for 10min and she worked perfectly. Left it for the day and tried to fire her up after dinner and she won't start. Cranks over fine, lots of fuel and the pump is running. But it is getting no spark. I pulled the alternator to check the Crank sensor's (svx has two) and found some cracked wiring at the connectors. I pulled and rewired the connectors, and she started briefly and stalled out again. I then pulled both crank sensors, cleaned them up and re-installed but she will not fire at all now. My guess is that the Crank sensors were on the way out, and the removal process killed them completely. The cylinder shaped body of sensor seems loose from the connector. Does anyone know how to test the crank/cam position sensors, SVX replacements are big bucks. I ordered some good used replacements from a person on SVXnet but would like to test the old ones if possible while I wait for the replacements. Any input or advice is appreciated, Cheers, Ian

My guess is the Crank Position Sensor. Without it there will be no signal sent to innitiate the spark.

To prep a harness for a merge any wires that "branch off" the main bundle between the sensors and ecu are snipped. Leaving you with a nice clean harness to work with. There were probably ground wires snipped to free the "engine harness" from the main dash/chassis harness. The only grounds supplying the ECU and engine harness are the "ControlPower" and "MemoryPower" grounds that need to be spliced to make it run. I think you need to add more grounds mid-stream to allow for a cleaner flow back to the ecu. Ian

My old faithful 95 2.2 4eat lego, is slowly rotting away. Still runs like a champ, burns no oil, throws no codes......gotta love the 2.2's. I've located a 2000 outback with a snapped timing belt, low miles, good body. Is it possible to swap the 2.2 from my 95 into the 2000 shell? I am a very capable mechanic and don't expect it to be plug and play. Just need to know if it will be worth my while. cheers, Ian

I tried looking for patch panels (rear wheel arch and dog leg) for my 95 legacy wagon but had no luck. I just used an old trick, a drivers side front fender can be used to patch up a passengers rear quarter. And a passengers front fender can be used to patch up a drivers rear quarter panel. You need to tweak it a bit, and choose your cuts wisely......but if you grab a good front fender from a scrap yard and hold it up against the bad rear arch you will see what i'am getting at. Best of luck.

Here's a link about replacing the interior lights, http://personal.nbnet.nb.ca/apples/bulbreplacement.pdf The radio is a sealed unit, so changing the lights inside could prove to be very difficult. Just buy a decent aftermarket stereo with similar color lighting. Ian

correct!! we use more salt then common sense when it comes to roads up here. We have 10cm of snow on its way tonight......salt trucks will spreading by dark.

So i need to pick up a pair of oil pans, one for the 95 "L" 2.2 and the other for a 98 "GT" 2.5. I can pick up a new H6 oil pan from a friend for dirt cheap. But i think it won't fit? My question is are all the EJ pan's the same? Or do i need to order a specific pan for the 2.2 and 2.5?

I work as an aircraft mechanic and spend days pulling hundreds of over torqued phillips screws. I use a long 1/4" wrench slipped over the phillips tip on my racheting screw driver. I also use a speeder handle, with a hockey puck size aluminum disk stuck on the end of the top handle. Then you can lean into the screw with your chest and really put some torque on it. Also i use "valve grinding compound" on the tip of my screw driver......just dip it in the tub of VGC and drive it into the screw......it fills in the gaps and really bites "literally" into the screw......use it and you barely ever strip a screw.

Thank you very much:banana:

Anyone have a ecu pinout for a 1998 legacy GT?