EastCoastEJ22T

It was the "illumi control unit" located on the knee kick panel. Swapped in a known good unit, and the lights function properly. If the PO would have bought a proper harness all this hassle could have been avoided. Now i think i'll go smell some magic smoke to celebrate, Thanks for the help nipper. Ian

I've done about 10 JDM engine swaps in my life (8 honda, 1 Mitsu, 1 Toyota) for friends and family. All the honda swaps went smooth and simple, the other two were a little tricky, but they were more complex and i was less familiar with the systems. From what i read about subaru's you run your USDM manifolds and sensors, and just swap the long block, keeping it fairly simple. As far as EJ25's go they all (USDM/JDM) have the same headgasket problems....so you should probably go through any JDM engine and do the (head gaskets/ t-belt/ tensioners/ water pump/ cam-seals) before dropping it in the car. That said JDM engines are low mileage, usually very clean and free of corrosion. If you can get one for a good price, go for it. I use a company in Montreal and they ship to your door within canada for free. Nothing puts a smile on my face like coming home from work to find a JDM engine vacuum wrapped on a pallet sitting in the driveway.

I plan on grabbing the missing harness and plug from a scrapyard asap, and wiring it back to stock. Also where is the "illumination module" located? I can always pull out the module, and throw it in the wifes legacy and see if its fubar. Thanks for the info so far.

Update: so i changed out the "illumi/tail" relay and nothing changed. So istarted pulling components and checking the bulbs and figured out that if i tap into the yellow/blue wire anywhere (stereo, ashtray light, Hvac) and touch it to ground i get the illumi lights to turn on. They are @ full bright and the dimmer switch has no effect. But they can be turned on and off with the headlight switch......so i'm thinking the dimmer switch may be shot.

true, didn't really think that statement through.

Thanks......wonder why they don't call it BR?

I just picked up a new project "98 Gt wagon". The previous owner did an absolute hack job on the stereo install, and somehow lost the dash/ hvac/ shifter illumination lights in the process. I pulled out his work and now only have a bundle of wires to work from, and with all the stereo wiring open the dash illumination lights do not function. Now here's the problem if i ground out the yellow/blue wire the dash lights come on, but the dimmer does not function. Any ideas. All the fuse are good......possible fried relay? Also according to the FSM the color of the main power wire from "fuse #25" is LR........what color is LR?

try this thread " Tire size / Wheel size / Offset /etc...log (will it fit?) " on the forester only site. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f72/tire-size-wheel-size-offset-etc-log-will-fit-11836/ and use this "tire size calculator" to see how different this size is from stock. http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

i work as an aircraft mechanic and see alot of garbage rivnuts. If you can't get to the back of it you can try to get some loctite around the base of the slutnut (but not the threads)....... or just drill the head of the screw and deal with it after the rack is off.

I've done it before, to install a bolt on HD roof rack.... just drop the head liner, not really that hard. Start at the back and remove the plastic window trim, then above doors. Last remove the visors and the a-pillar trim and the over head consol and cannon plug. Try not to let it sag or it may crack/crease. I used a shoe box on top of the rear seat to keep it from sagging as i worked my way forward. It's easy just go slow, keep the hardware with the panels (i use sandwich bags) and try not to break to many plastic clips and tabs, or she will rattle like a bastard. Takes about 45 min to get it out the first time, and about 15min to but it back in. If you get frustrated use a sawzall.

heat + vicegrips= victory

almost got the rear subframe removed but can't see a way to get the Parking Brake cable out of the backing plate (1995 legacy, rear drums).

Yeah I've been soaking down the whole assembly for a few weeks with ACF-50 and LPS-TKX (aircraft stuff i get from work for free) The plate nuts in the frame are what worry me the most. It's really amazing the car has been "rust checked" regularly since new, and the rest of the car is solid......but the rear subframe is trashed, i could probably pull it apart by hand. I'll dive in tommorow morning and update as it goes.

1995 legacy wagon 2.2L-4eat. The rear subframe is completely rotten, the rest of the car is decent and we love it to death. I picked up a rear subframe from an 06 Imprezza wagon. Was a dealer demo that got totaled. I measured the mounting hole spacing and control arm length and it is the same......only on a subaru. Any tips or tricks for subframe removal......i was thinking a sawzall would work nice. lol. I have the FSM and one side was apart for a wheel bearing last fall, and it was all dropped down to change the gas tank in 05 (previous owner). Just seeing if there are any time saving ideas out there. Thanks alot, Ian

I used a top hat from the rear strut, a clear piece of lexan and verniers to make a template.....then used .250 teflon plate to make the spacers. I used two per side, and low profile lock nuts to keep it all in safety. I work as an aircraft mechanic so the time/materials/tools were all free @ work. These spacers are very popular on forester running STI struts or Impreza wago's running STI struts, and can be bought at many places. Just search "Saggy Butt Shims" on google. They definately helped, but the car still sits about 3/8" higher in the front (measuring from the rocker) The wheel archs on these cars sit funny and make the car look like it's dragging it's rump roast to start with, so measure from the rocker, not the wheel arch.

Thanks, I am really happy with the look/ stance.........and the dog loves it! I live in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada.

finally got mine done, rears were a ***************.......but it can be done, also used teflon spacers to stop the butt sag. more pics and info here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103810 I find it strange all the completed cars in this thread are Ruby Mica wagons?

Here's my lifted lego wagon. It's a 1995 2.2 4eat, lifted on 04 XT takeoffs, Homemade teflon strut spacers in the rear, and 215/70/15 dunlop graspics on forrester steelies.

Looks like a ground to me. My car has nothing attached there, although most my grounds were junk so i made all new ones. My extra(engine block to body) ground is from the block to the rad support. Proper grounding is relevant to the running/ operation of the engine. Just crimp/squish another lead on the end and attach it to the engine block, The main engine ground is from just above/forward of the starter on the block to the neg post on the battery, it was probably run from that same bolt/post to the part of the fire wall as shown in your pic. Check the main wire (blk/yellow stripe) from the post in the pic above to the neg post of the battery, the one you show was probably an extra....can never have to many grounds.

I had this happen to me once on my 92 turbo legacy, it was the "igniter module" not sure what to call it. Small black box in the center of the firewall with a 4 wire flat canon plug attached to it. The car would only run on 2 cylinders, it ran but ran like ************ .... and i got stranded in the middle of nowhere (30km out a fire road in the Cape Breton highlands)....so after some trouble shooting (removing plug wires while at idle, figured out coil was only firing on 2 cylinders) i removed the small box, cracked it open with a pocket knife and found two of the hair thin wires inside had broken. The 4 uninsulated wires inside are suspended in a clear goo, and the broken wires had burnt the goo a smokey brown. Gently removed/ scraped the goo away from the problem wires and twisted/ attached the two suspect wires back together. Reinstalled the box and the car ran like a top, drove home and filled the box with silicone......then drove to scrap yard and bought new box for $5. Hopefully some one will chime in with the actual part name can't seem to find it in the service manual. Here's apic from my 95 2.2

He used the complete 04 forester strut assemply (strut,spring,mount) he says the fronts swapped in easy, but the rear was a really tight fit. I tracked him down over on http://www.subaruforester.org. I have the same style wagon, and just picked up a set of 04 XT take offs. Will post up some pics after the strut swap.

Quote: Originally Posted by SuperRu Here is a pic of our 95 with 04 Forester struts. The wheels are Forester XT's with 225-60-16 Sumitomo's. The tires rubbed in front so they didn't stay on long. When we wear out the stockers I think I'll try some 215's on my daughters car. found this guy running 04 forester suspension. Looks promising

Have the option of picking up a full set of 04 XT struts, will these fit on my 95-99 lego wagon? Was going to orderr new outback KYB GR2's put these came up, deals to good to pass up. Did some searching and they will fit, may have to change top hats in the rear, or stick with the lego springs and hats (rear).

I live in Nova Scotia, eastern canada. We have long cold winters here as well. An old favorite trick of mine is to block off 1/2 to 2/3's of the radiator with a suitable size piece of cardboard. Just remember to remove the wet cardboard in the spring. It allows the car to get to temp and hold temp, quicker and stronger. Also a new thermostat and a flush and fill, i do this once every two years.

1995 lego wagon 2.2 4eat.....running a scan gauge tool. While driving today the revs would hang around 1500 rpm and i noticted the TPS was reading it was still open with the foot off the pedal, popped the hood and checked that the cable was not hanging up/ catching on something, it wasn't TB was closed. Stabbed the throttle the 1500rpm rev hang went away, it returned a few times during the day, but stabbing the throttle would result in it not hanging, after a few times it threw a code......pulled into the driveway and pulled the code P0743. I thought it was the TPS (think it still may be) but the code is (Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On P0748) also noticed the AT light was flashing on start up. What is the Pressure Control Solenoid, anyone ever get this before......wtf do i do about it. ANy input is welcome. Gonna go try and clear the code and see if it comes back.