91LegLS

How often should this procedure be done?

I know some of you are probably getting a little tired of the SeaFoam issue. I've read all previous links (every page) and tried the induction process. Yesterday, I poured half the can into the oil crankcase, then poured a third of the remainder thru the PCV valve hose. The idle did fluctuate while I was slowly pouring the chemical. Then after letting the car sit for 5 minutes, I went for a casual 5 mile drive so that the smoking problem would stop. Everything seems fine, no CEL and the engine idles so smooth, I can't see the engine vibrate at idle. (156K on the odo) My question is, should I pour the remainder SeaFoam into the PCV valve without worrying about damaging the engine? I've used 44k to clean the fuel system and injectors and I swear by 44k, so that doesn't need to be done.

It is very similiar to Ford automatics. Back in the 70's, Ford had something called SelectShift, which they still have on some of their vehicles that have RWD. The only difference was the 1st gear lockout happened only in 2nd. Put the gear selector in 1st, it only used 1st. Put it in 2nd, it only used 2nd. 3rd was normal driving. I recently test drove a 2006 Mustang and the transmission had the same feature. I freaked out the salesrep because he was talking to me about the traction control yet he didn't know the automatic would lock out 1st if the selector was in 2nd. At work, we have a F350 and it does the same thing. Other makes have a standard automatic (put the trans in 2nd, car starts in 1st, shifts to 2nd and stops shifting).

So...it's kinda like 44k from the company BG, right? But it's more versatile because you can put it in the oil or suck it through the PCV valve.

What is Seafoam? Where is it available?

You're almost correct. If the gearshift is in 3 the car starts in second, then shifts to third. When you stop, it goes back to second, not first. Putting the gearshift in 2 forces the transmission to start and stay in second. The feature is designed to be used in situations with bad traction (ice, snow and mud) It lessens the chance that your wheels will spin and gives the engines torque more opportunity to move the car forward. It is very noticable if you have AWD. If your engines rpm gets too high, the transmission will shift to the next higher gear, regardless what gear the gearshift is in, to prevent damaging your engine. If you have an owners manual in your car, it describes the feature in detail. If you don't have an owners manual, check out Ebay; they have thousands of manuals for sale.

I was wandering in a salvage yard earlier today looking for that thing that holds the door open on the drivers side. Mine was worn out. Now the door stays open even on an incline. Saw two XT6's with the headlight washers ready to remove. I'm glad I left them alone. They sit flat on the bumper, not raised a 1/2 inch like the UK washers that are on their way. The switch was integrated into the washer controls. Impossible to use on my car. Found another Legacy with an intact bumper cover, took it off and discovered styrofoam in front of metal bumper, so routing the hoses and making room for the washers shouldn't be difficult. No holes to drill into bumper substructure. Also found large hole directly below drivers headlight which should allow hose to run through the front.

Many people will suggest that you save some coin and spray Lysol or another bacteria spray into the vents. To remove the source of the odor, the source must be removed, not deodorized. If the material isn't removed, it will only get worse. Before I had mine done, the A/C smelled so bad it made my eyes water. I purchased the car in October and the previous owner didn't keep the interior clean. Fortunately, I detail cars once in awhile as a hobby and the car looks, and smells, much better. Get it cleaned. You'll be glad you did later this summer.

Found a salvage yard in UK that had the entire system, have sent payment, and will be installing soon. According to UK vendor, there is a separate switch that washes the headlights. It installs in the blank area below the cruise control and rear defroster switches. I always wanted to fill in that area anyway, now I'll have something official Subaru in that spot. I can send the photo I got from UK to show what it looks like.

I have a 91 Legacy LS and I was suffering with the exact problem you are now. Everything you read previously is correct and will temporarily solve the problem. To permanently fix the problem, you need to have the evaporator core under the dash inside the vehicle CLEANED. Many speciality shops and your local dealer should have a cleaning system that sprays an enzyme cleaner that dissolves the crap that has accumulated on the core and is stinking up your car. It shouldn't cost more that $150 to have done and takes about two hours to complete. Once your system has been cleaned (it has nothing to do with the refrigerant inside you system, just the core next to your heater core under the dash) the smell will be gone and your ventilation airflow will improve regardless if the A/C is on or not. Your car may have an in-cabin air filter and if you do, it should be changed once a year. Cabin air filters are designed to prevent accumulation on the A/C evaporator core, which is the problem you appear to be having. The perfume your dealer sprayed was done so from outside the car at the air intake grills next to your windshield wipers. DON'T GO BACK TO THAT DEALERSHIP BECAUSE THEY WOULD HAVE USED THE ENZYME CLEANER IF THEY HAD IT TO FIX YOUR PROBLEM. Tell your next repair shop that you need to have your A/C evaporator core under the dash cleaned. If they are educated, they will know exactly what you're talking about.

The above link was very helpful and detailed. I'll start with the drain plugs and make sure they aren't plugged before I decide to remove the roof and re-seal, which probably couldn't hurt, now that the car is getting a little older (156K on the odometer) Thanks for the info.

I found the drainholes at the front but I didn't see holes in the back. Where are they and where does the water drain for the back holes? I have a wagon.

Thanks for the information about where the moonroof usually leaks. I'll go examine my seals to see what condition they are in. Is it difficult to replace the seals if they need it? Dave

Thanks, I'll give it a try. About a month ago, I wiped down the rubber seals so that they wouldn't stick. I'll try the low pressure compressed air to see if the drains are clogged. I recently learned the difference between a sunroof and a moonroof. Moonroofs have glass (so you can see the moon at night while it's closed) and a retractable sunshade (so you don't suffer during the summer)

I'm sure this topic has been covered, I just couldn't find the discussion thread. What should I do first? It starts to leak when I stop the car. Doesn't leak if the car is sitting or when I'm driving. This is my first car with a moonroof so I'm not sure what to do.

I did own a 72 Super Beetle that was 95% restored until I was rear-ended by drunk illegals from Mexico while I was stopped at a school crosswalk with children crossing at the other side of the intersection. That old Bug died saving a small childs life.

Have list of Headlight Washer parts and numbers RH Nozzle=86640AA020 LH Nozzle=86640AA030 check valve=786634010 Nozzle Clamps=86617AA000 Pump=86611TA010 Pump Gasket=786623000 Next stop, the dealer to see if USA Subaru stocks these items, crossing my fingers on the nozzles and pump, the most important. UPDATE 3/30/06 Only the check valve and the pump gasket are available Subaru USA. The other parts that start with an "8" will have to be ordered from UK. I'm going to try to see if I can find a UK Junkyard that will send me used parts before buying them new from the dealer (which is never cheap).

I work in a diesel truck repair shop and we have both drills and a plasma cutter so bonus for me if I need it. Maybe the bumper on the 91 Legacy is different than your newer Impreza. We have one mechanic who used to work on Subarus at the dealer. I'll ask him what I should expect to find under the bumper cover. I could also practice on a junk Legacy at the local junkyard and determine if it would be easier to just remove the bumper to install the nozzles. Thanks for your advice.

I was able to call the dealer in the UK and have confirmed that, for the Legacy, there is no special switch to wash the headlights. They are washed when you wash the windshield, regardless if the headlights are on or not. I have sent a reply to the UK to get the part numbers for the pump (which provides a little more pressure than the windshield pump can provide) headlight nozzles and clips that hold the nozzles to the bumper. The hoses are available here, so I don't need to have that shipped. This could be easier than I thought.

Do you have the electric shoulder belt seat belts? Do the belts open and close when the door is opened or closed? Does your car have a driver side air bag? if you do have a air bag it could be malfunctioning.

You will need to remove the instrument cluster and the bulbs are on the back and very easy to change. I've recently done that procedure on my car. Reattaching the speedometer cable to the back of the instrument cluster can be difficult. Reach in under the dash and push the cable onto the cluster. Pushing the cluster onto the cable will drive you insane. Hope this helps

I've sent a reply to the UK dealer but because they are 8 hours ahead of me (I'm in mountain time zone) I think the UK parts department has closed. My last question was "Is there a separate switch that washes the headlights"? I work in a big rig repair shop running the computers for all operations. The mechanics have speculated that the pump I currently have should be able to provide more than enough pressure. Even if there is a separate switch that I couldn't see in the brochure photos, I think my current system (windshield) could simply be spliced after my pump, install a second hose to the front bumper, attach the nozzles to the bumper and wash the lights when I wash the windshield (which seems the most practical). Some of the other European systems (Mercedes, Volvo, Audi, with or without tiny wiper arms on the lights) only wash the lights if the lights are on and the windshield is washed. The UK Legacy brochure showed the lights being washed with the lights off (headlight and parking light) Waiting for a response from the UK dealer.

Friday I sent a parts request to Subaru head office in the UK and I received a message from a UK Subaru dealer. He listed all the parts needed to install the headlight washer system (two nozzles and bumper clips, one check valve and washer pump) No mention was made for a separate tank or any dashboard installed switches or switches located on the headlight control stalk or the wiper control stock. It appears that washing the windshield automatically washes the headlights. I then examined closely my UK Legacy brochure and all the photos of the interior do not show a special switch to wash the headlights. The pump I currently have may be strong enough to provide pressure to wash both the windshield and headlights. I've sent a response to the UK dealer to confirm this. It appears that all I need to install is the nozzles, bumper clips and check valve. Installing nozzles from other European makes (Saab, Volvo, Jaguar) may not be angled correctly (shoot too high or low) Besides, if I can get Genuine Subaru parts, then my car is still 100% Subaru. I have Google'd with no luck.

I'll try your suggestion. Does anyone know where I can locate UK junkyards on the web. I've tried to Google some but no luck so far.

I've recently looked at their catalog and no luck.