Jilly

Replaced the thermostat with 180 degree one. Actually just installed one as there wasn't one when I bought the car. Guess he thought it didn't need one! Haven't replaced the cap, yet. Seems to be doing it's job, though- tight until hot enough to send fluid to the resevoir. Had the heads milled- found a place with the proper machine/experience for aluminum heads. Looked them over pretty thoroughly when they were out, didn't see any indication of cracking at all. Not getting any semblance of water in the oil anymore, either. Both the oil and water levels have remained constant, no leaks/drips. My oil cap isn't sealing correctly, that's next on the list to replace. Getting some oil blowing out of that, but I take it as a good sign on the pressure more than a problem. Would a loose oil cap make a big difference in pressure?

Ok. Just to make sure we're on the same page: We've pretty much ruled out the oil pump and gotten down to the radiator. Starting my 40 mile test trek in stop and go traffic, the temp stayed a happy half way. After 20 minutes or so of 65-70 mph driving it started to get hotter (gradually) not long after the oil pressure dropped to around 20-25 psi. Wasn't really watching the rpms at that point. We're still thinking radiator, then? I'm pretty happy with the prognosis, but my roomy is still questioning it.

That's a good idea. More airflow Good. Hmm.. I'll bet I could make a scoop, come to think of it. New radiator first, then mods. Plenty of mud come monsoon season- at least there was in Tucson when I was there. No drainage. But who wants to get out when it's 120 degrees?

With a new one I wouldn't have to wonder... That's a good site you recommended, btw. At least changing the radiator is a whole lot easier than changing the oil pump. Bit by bit I'm getting this car running right! Funny, I move back to Texas and get the car I needed in the mountains (4wd)! Thanks for all the help, guys! I feel a lot better about the oil pump now.

So it's actually a little high at idle (20psi). That's good to know. Think having my rad routed would do it or just go for the new one?

Could be the rad, still. Didn't see much sense in putting a new one on until I cleared the crap from the block. Are the oil pressure fluxuations normal, then? Never seen that big a gap in any other subs I've owned. Started driving on a 79 hatchback, btw. Great car! Flipped the odometer on that one several times before retiring it (still running). I miss carbs.

Thanks. Been thinking about aftermarket guages, just to be sure. Not knowing what caused the heads to blow has me a bit twitchy with the readings. Would rather not change the oil pump if I don't have to- expensive part from what I've seen and not an terribly easy job but I'm up for it if it needs it. I just finished the last radiator flush so I'm still on straight water until I'm sure it's clear. That'll raise the temp a bit, I know, but shouldn't be this much. Texas car- lower 90's today. A/C is on the list to fix, but not a priority yet.

127,000 barely breaking in a Sub.

Hi. I recently bought an 89 Sub wagon, 1.8 FI Turbo. Both head gaskets were blown on purchase. Fixed that and got it running but it overheated still. The last owner apparently thought 5-6 cans of stop-leak would fix the heads! I think I've successfully flushed the block, finally, but it's still getting hotter than I like. Temp guage goes up to about 3/4 after 40 miles of highway driving. The oil pressure starts out around 45 psi but drops down to about 20 psi once it warms up. I put on a new sender unit to make sure it was an accurate reading. It hasn't actually overheated since the persistent cooling system flushes, but it gets hot enough to hit the overflow tank. Is this within normal parameters or should I start looking at the oil pump? Maybe an engine flush? Thanks for any input!

Much appreciated. I did *finally* see it in the manual, btw. Not readily apparent for quick reference, but there nonetheless. With luck, and help from you guys, I'll get to take it on it's maiden voyage tomorrow!

Truely?! It'd be nice if they'd mention that in either book! I set the belts with the flywheel on the middle of the three marks, lining up the gearmarks with the casing marks (both up). Then set the distributor with the "0" timing mark. 180 out on 2 & 4 would certainly explain the back pressure! Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Hi guys, I just picked up an 89 GL wagon 1.8 Turbo 4WD Auto. Got it cheap with a blown headgasket. Pulled the motor, trued the heads and gave it a general once-over. Everything seemed in order until I put the motor back in and tried to start it. Runs Great... on two cyl's. #1 & 3 fire just fine, but #2 & 4 don't even try. Sounds like I might be getting some back pressure on one of the valves on that side- not sure which. I'm getting spark (a little weak) but didn't smell any gas on the plugs to speak of. I'm a carb girl, not much exp. with fuel injection. Could that be the source of my frustrations? Not sure I got the vacuum hoses back quite right, either. Neither the manuals (Haynes and Chilton both) nor the under hood diagram are very informative on v-hoses. Any ideas? Thanks for any input! Jilly