NV Zeno

Lookin' good, very nice. Yeah I painted my rears a couple of years ago, used FORD RED engine enamel. Looks pretty good through my white Wagon Wheels, relatively easy to keep clean. Still would like to do the fronts too. Just my 2 bucks

Well alrighty then..I must've got it mixed up with my Acura :lol: !

IIRC, it works with your defroster, when the air is directed to the windshield and the temp is set to hot. I may be mistaken, it's been a long time.. Please let us know what you find out.

Rockauto.com for stuff I can wait for, decent service and prices. Depending on what part of Tahoe you're at, Lakeside Auto Parts is NAPA. Two locations in South Shore, they usually have what I need. There's also a NAPA in Incline and in Carson City. I think there's one in Gardnerville too. Just my 2 bucks

OK, an update. I've been working on this project occaisionally and in short bursts, these old bones can't stand more than a few minutes each day of leaning and reaching into the work area. I managed to tap out about 1/4 to 3/8 inch of the plug hole, the spark plug with the insert attached threads in and holds when the engine starts. I'd like to complete at least another 1/4 inch, just so I'm a little more confident about having enough threads for the plug to seat firmly..I'd hate to have it blow out in a blizzard at night. It's bad enough my Hitachi carburetor isn't working all that great right now either. Hopefully I'll have the spark plug job completed tomorow..then I can see what I can do with the carb/intake system.

OK, thanks..it's crystal clear now. I managed to borrow the proper tapping tool, and will get started in the next couple of days (thanks Rick at Harrah's Tahoe Casino). I stopped by NAPA on the way home and picked up a pack of inserts. I didn't have a sparkplug with me and guessed it was the middle or "normal" size: 1/2 inch. I threaded it onto the plug, a little short..not much, about 1/8 inch. Whaddya think, will it work, or do I need to exchange for the longer size? Thanks again for all the help so far.

OK just so I'm sure here, do I still need to prepare the hole somehow like with the tapping tool I mentioned earlier, before inserting the helicoil? I also saw "inserts" that came with the tap (and also sold separately), they're sort of a ring that's threaded on both the inside and outside surfaces (this sounds like the Timesert mentioned above). I know those are different than a helicoil, but seem like a more permanent fix. I really have no preference, I'm just trying to understand this clearly. Another question..I noticed several depths available, what's the correct size?

Thanks guys, very good info. I went into NAPA today, and saw the Balkamp threader mentioned just above. They were out of the size I need, but it'll be at the store tomorrow. Just as I was leaving, I remembered the Autozone nearby rents tools. I found a few that looked like they were the right one, but there were many different sizes/pitches. Which is the correct one for my application? While at NAPA, I saw and asked about the thread chaser tool, and was told that it wasn't the right tool for stripped threads, which I have. I stuck my finger in the hole, and while not completely smooth, the threads are not good. So I guess I agree with the guy about that. I've got some time before it starts snowing, but my 2wd Acura will be useless when it does..I can still get to work while the wagon is down (for now).

'83 EA 81 wagon: This has happened probably twice before, each incident a year or two apart. Until yesterday. Three times in about half an hour while running around town (groceries, mail, etc). I did a search, and found some interesting reading on the subject. There were lots of suggestions about how to correct the problem, I've yet to try anything. As was posted (and I've noticed), my Craftsman spark plug socket didn't fit all the way down. GD suggested using the "emergency socket" that came with the Subaru toolkit, I'm sure it's just as pristine today as it was in 1983. I guess I'll try that first. I read some about "Timesert", but couldn't find any pix or details about that. Some of my motorhead buddies are familiar with helicoil, and mentioned that, and discussed on the USMB also. What I'm most curious about is the "chaser", specific to spark plug holes. I found a few on the NAPA website (I searched "chaser"), I managed to get them all to display on the same page: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Compare.aspx?R=BK_730_0100567522+BK_2123_0100567522+BK_3379_0100567522+ Any recommendations or comments on the products listed? What size is the EA81 hole? Should I be working on this while the engine is stone cold, or warm/hot? Some of the USMB guys mentioned using Anti-sieze, whaddya all think? Am I asking the right questions? More specific info upon request. Thanks.

Here's my 2 bucks... I've got 333,000 miles on my EA81. Oilpan gasket changed once, valve cover gaskets maybe twice. Heads and intake have never been removed. Sure, there were/are some small leaks, nothing major. Runs perfectly. I've run 10w30 and 10w40 it's whole life, just about every brand. I make sure the level is up, and change the oil and filter every 4000~5000 miles. I live at 6000 feet, and it gets to around zero overnight for a few weeks a year in winter..no trouble at all. I think GD covered it: just make sure the oil is changed regularly and topped when necessary, good to go. Just my 2 bucks

One thing to watch for is to make sure the lines have clearance from anything moving, like a wheel etc..always good to double check when you're done. Just my 2 bucks

Just throwing it out there...possibly a rear wheel bent or out of balance?

And that's EXACTLY what my gut is telling me. She's pretty much decided to have the leak fixed, and "wait and see" with the turbo. Thanks Rob.

*Update* Saw Neighbor today. She told me she took her car to a highly recommended local shop that has a mech that knows old Subarus (I've talked to him myself a looong time ago about my carb, he knows Subarus..I actually forgot about him/that shop:rolleyes:). (She told me) He put the car on a lift, and confirmed the small oil leak I pointed out yesterday. Estimate, $700. This guy also told her she needed a new turbo, $1000+. Now, I know this is a '92, but it only has 91000 miles (I checked today). This 80-something year old lady is the original owner, and she is definitely NOT a hot-rodder on the road. I guess my question is how did these guys determine that the turbo needs to be replaced? Is there a visual "telltale"? A certain sound? She was told that she'll know that the turbo has completely failed by seeing lots of smoke out the exhaust. That is not happening now. Now she's really worried about pouring money into an old car, and has started considering a new one. I'd hate to see her shell out $25000 for a new Legacy if her '92 is still good, just in need of a relatively minor repair(And it's in REALLY NICE condition, inside and out ). I just wanna know what those guys are seeing...

Gee Moosie, why would you use those good-looking and rare wheels for winter? Those would look great in summer, and to be protected from abuse/salt in the winter. Just my 2 bucks...

OK. Just got back from looking at her car. I checked for torn/leaking CV boots, all 4 are intact and dry. Still no oil spots on the floor, ANY substance. Motor oil level on dipstick reads "full", and the oil is a little darker than new but still somewhat "see-through". I stopped by and talked to Norm, the "Grand Poobah" of Subaru mechs in Tahoe, and he (of course) agreed with all of us that adding the stop leak was a really bad idea. I DID NOT add the stop leak stuff, and told her I compared it to giving bourbon to a small child or a baby. If what I am seeing is what I think, there is what looks like a small catalytic converter on the front bottom of the engine (USA driver side) directly below the A/C compressor, seen from below..that has fresh-looking and still moist oil stuck to it. That would explain the burnt oil smell, eh? I told her it was certainly NOT the turbo, I pointed out to her it's location, clear on the other side of the engine compartment. My best guess is that it's probably a failed small gasket or seal nearby, but I'm sure there's plenty of EJ gurus here that know this engine WAY better than me (I'm an EA81 owner), and might even be able to figure out what the heck I'm talking about here . Thanks

My feelings, almost exactly. I just find it odd that a "professional" would even think of telling someone to use that (or just about any) additive. Still can't figure a reason to add that stuff if he's going to check her car in a few days anyway. My take is "as long as the oil level is in the operating range it'll be OK", leaks or not.

"Limp it the 30-40 miles after making sure its completely full of oil." Actually, it runs fine..no overheating/hi-temp indicated, smooth idle and drives normally. No exhaust smoke. I am not too keen on adding that stuff either, don't know why the guy told her to add it. I'm JAFO here. IIRC someone above mentioned there might be a small oil leak that's dripping onto something hot in the engine room (or CVJ grease) causing the smell. I too am hesitant to have her add the stop leak stuff, but I'm trying to be respectful of her freind. I figure the worst that can happen there is that the additive will be in her engine for a short time. The oil should get changed when the repair is done.

OK. Just got off the phone with Neighbor. She didn't take her car to another shop yet, but she WAS asking around. Turns out one of her freinds from her church owns an auto repair shop in Reno, 30~40 miles away. They spoke for a few minutes, and he told her to add a can (bottle?) of "Engine Oil Stop Leak" today, and he'll have a closer "eyeball" look at her car on Sunday. I asked about the "big smoke" out the exhaust, and she said she hasn't noticed any. Coolant temperature has not changed, runs normally. No oil or coolant spots on her garage floor. I guess she'll have more info, and maybe a diagnosis on Sunday. -- Rob, there's a really good Subaru shop I like (Norm's), but he's over in South Lake Tahoe, 22 miles away. I don't think she's too interested in driving that far for a minor repair..we are optimistic.

Ya know..come to think of it, I HAVE heard the familiar clacking a CVJ makes coming from her car when she makes the sharp turn entering/exiting her garage. Maybe I'll pay her a visit and have a look-see at her axle boots. One thing about that though..the smell is more like burnt motor oil, which is different than the CV grease smell I'm familiar with from my EA81 wagon (which was quite often). To answer the comment about turbo operation: I doubt if she ever "gets into the turbo" very much, is there anything I could have her do to be sure the turbo is not operating properly (noise, smoke, lack of power (duh))? [Answered by GD above-thanks.] I'll do a little more research, and also stay tuned here to see if there are any more suggestions. Thanks guys.

1992 Legacy Turbo, Under 100,000 miles. This is my 80-something neighbor's car. When arriving home, she smells a "burnt oil" smell coming from the engine bay. I have smelled this. Not being familiar with turbo engines, I did a quick "look-see" to verify that there were no major leaks or any components that have came loose or disconnected. She took it to a local "general practice" repair place, and she was told the turbo needs replacing. Of course, they needed to order the part, and that cost around $1000. She was also told the labor to replace would be minimal compared to the parts. I suggested she take her car to another shop for a second opinion, as this is a quite costly repair, and at the least to obtain a second opinion. She doesn't drive very hard or far, mostly to the store, doctor and church, all in the same small town. I doubt if she drives in such a way that the turbo is activated..I've ridden with her, and she drives like your typical "granny". Opinions? Comments? Questions? Thanks.

Tom Thanks for posting your solutions. I've got the same carb issues..I'll look into those possibilities when my "Subaru driving season" comes back this fall. (And thanks to GD for your suggestions)

Can't remember if they work on Subarus there, but I've taken all my Acuras to Wally's, a block or so off Desert Inn Rd. Excellent work/crew.

. OK, I'm just guessing here...if there is no loss of performance, it could be a throttle position sensor or possibly a fuel flow sensor of some kind that's wearing out, sending an incorrect reading to the ECU. I just re-read your posts. There's lots of things that have been removed, and the ECU expects those things to all be there.. it's confused. The parts that are still remaining are very old and wearing out, confusing the ECU more. You mentioned something inside the tachometer may be not operating right. That is also a possibility. Hope this helps, I'm just thinking of some more possibilities.

My late-'83 production EA81 wagon has vented discs up front... Just my 2 bucks