NV Zeno

Wow, a 2006. Moosens enters the Space Age.

Throw-out bearing, also known as Clutch bearing.

Both versions had flanges around both inner and outer edges, but the later "new and improved" version had spaces cut out of the flanges, to enable installation while the wheel is mounted, no loosening required. I'm looking through my archive to see if I can find an invoice for the last set I bought. The latest invoice I have for the rings is from Aug, 2006. Part number 7231 46020.

If I'm recalling correct, the earlier type required the wheel be at least loosened and pulled away from the drum/ rotor to mount in the hole. The later version allowed the ring to be installed with the wheel mounted to the drum/ rotor..no loosening required.

I've been using K&N on my 200,000+ mile 2008 Forester. Available at my local NAPA store, or if I'm down in Reno that day I pick one up at Summit Racing over in Sparks.

It's now been a few days, did the replacement alt from Oreilly's solve the problem?

Haven't had that in years. Ahh, childhood in the Italian district of '50s and '60s San Francisco...

Good info, Ido. Please don't read the following as disagreeing with you. If the OP drives enough miles each year to wear down before degradation, why not a set of "mid-grade" quality tires? All Seasons are numerous and plentiful . One of the national chains (Les Schwab, Discount Tire out west here) ought to carry several types and price ranges in that size to choose from. Can't beat the service at some of the big chains for free flat repairs and rotations. I personally run high end summers on my Taurus, and Blizzaks from Tire Rack on my Subaru, but that's me. Your needs may vary. FWIW, I've had many, many different types of tires over the years, and the pricey Michelins far outpace the others for quality and longevity. Just my 2 bucks

Ido, I agree. Pure marketing. If you feel compelled to rotate and balance your tires, that might be better to have done at/ by the shop that installed the tires. Many of them provide free rotations every X,000 miles, balance if necessary or requested. Just my 2 bucks

It seems like the first thing that needs to happen here is the car needs to taken out of Park. The "Shift Lock" button shown in the smaller picture is the right place to be: with the key in the RUN position with your left hand stick a small screwdriver or something small enough to fit in the hole (I once used a pen), push down a little, no need to push hard or far, and at the same time with your right hand move the shift lever from Park. You may also have to be pressing the brake pedal with your foot, at the same time. Please let us know what works (or doesn't).

Oil change, Castrol GTX High Mileage 5W-30. While I was at Summit Racing in Sparks grabbing a K&N oil filter, I also picked up a new radiator cap and changed that too.. Also tire rotation (Blizzaks). 2008 Forester, just ticked 220,000 miles. Doesn't drip one drop of any fluid.

Very interesting, thank you! Your write ups are very informative and complete..very easy to follow and understand. Many of us here have at least some knowledge of how cars (and components) operate, and your explanations make simple a job that I, for one, would never attempt. Transmissions, especially. Particularly automatics! I've done a few clutch jobs, but have never worked on transmissions specifically..they are too complicated for me! Congratulations on successfully solving both problems with your car!

Happened to me so many times I've lost count.

Or possibly the switch .

Sylvania Silverstar is my bulb of choice in my Subarus. Wagner for my Ford.

How's the Soul been for ya?

Institutionalized, nice!

If you can find a used, low mileage EA81 4 speed, you can try replacing yours with that. No guarantee the very common 3rd gear issue won't be there. Been there done that. What GD said-yeah.

Some of those photos of the whole cars look familiar. WCSS?

That Loyale is in really nice shape!

It's not often starters fail that way, but not unprecedented. The starter on one of my Fords failed like that. Glad you found the problem and got it fixed! And, thanks for the update..that's very helpful.

I agree with Idosubaru above. Same thing happened to me some years back. Shaking stopped whenever I let off the gas. The problem developed really fast for me. Cheap axles of course, started shaking a little bit on my way to work, a 25 mile commute. WAY worse on my way back home that day, barely driveable by the time I got home.

Hmmm. It's possible that leadoff letter is specific to a regional market, like North America, Australia, Europe, etc. Just spitballing here.

The raised roof body on your wagon is also very rare (at least in North America). It looks to be in good condition, probably worth saving if you can.

I've got a right side full assembly, meaning mounting bracket and glass light fixture itself. Bulb may still be plugged into it, too. As I recall, the glass flat surface is not cracked or broken, and IIRC it just needs a little cleaning and maybe some polishing. I've a couple of those grates that attach to the outside, too.