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NV Zeno

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Everything posted by NV Zeno

  1. If you want the OEM part, I got one from Nate Wade Subaru in Salt Lake City (along with some other small parts). Shipped free to me in Nevada and reasonably priced.
  2. You're welcome any time, bro. It was great to finally meet "The Legend" after all these many years!
  3. Barring a breakdown in any of 4 states, I'll see y'all there Friday.
  4. I remove mine every winter for ease of snow removal. One screw on each end of both crossbars. Screws are Torx T30.
  5. The "winterize kit" is in relatively good shape. Meaning it's clean and none of the places I've seen broken or missing, are broken or missing. It's been awhile since I've been around EA81s, but I wouldn't discard it just yet. Don't know the dollar value, but an EA81 owner may want it for his car. I had one on my '83 wagon, and that shield helped protect the distributor from splashes when I would enter big puddles and WCSS mud pits. Try posting in the "for sale" section of this forum. You may get a couple of bucks for it, and it'll go to a good home. Just my 2 bucks
  6. ​I have had much success and satisfaction with "Trico Chill 37-190" on my '96 Outback. available on Amazon or Ebay, and probably some retailers. Just my 2 bucks
  7. ​I went with Wagner "Brite Lite" BP9003BLX2 on my '96 OB. Vast improvement over stock. Direct, no-mod install. Got them from Rock Auto. Very satisfied. Just my 2 bucks
  8. ​I did the "shortcut swap" on my '83 wagon years ago. I replaced both the heater core and the valve, then sealed the cut areas back up with the HVAC tape as described just above. There were no leaks, and AFAIK that car is still going and swapped core still operating to this day. That job was done sometime in the early 90's with about 175,000 miles. Wagon is now at around 400,000 miles. ​I can't recall where I got the parts (it was a long, long time ago) but I do remember I got the core and the valve at two different places. Try Rock Auto..they're sure to have at least one of the parts you need here. Just my 2 bucks
  9. ​I had a regulator on my '83 wagon fail, and when I looked up the price it was what I thought a high price. Wound up just replacing the whole door. If you look around, you'll find one in satisfactory (to you) condition, and maybe even the same color. The wrecking yards are your friend. Just my 2 bucks
  10. ​I used 10w30 and 10w40 in my '83. Genuine Subaru filter. Changed every 5000 miles. Was still running perfectly when I traded it with about 350,000 on it. AFAIK it is still on the road today (thanks to GD), with probably 400,000 on it by now. ​Just my 2 bucks
  11. GD knows Subarus. I took my '96 to him, certain that I'd need a whole new xmission. He replaced a (ONE!) bearing inside the transmission, and it's now like new! The OP likely only needs a new clutch. Just my 2 bucks
  12. As far as mostly interior and body parts go, to what year back are interchangeable with a 2017 Forester? Stuff like floormats, cargo cover, etc. Thanks
  13. Hey Rob, where did you find/get those 4-LED lamps? They're perfect for the interior dome, and the light in the cargo section of my wagon.
  14. Sounds like what happened to my '83 wagon a few years back. Turned out the secondary part of the carburetor wasn't opening, so it bogged at heavy demand for power (which is kinda always in an EA81). I used most of a can of spray carb cleaner removing the gunk mostly from the outside of the carb (some inside too). Turns out the linkages and moving parts were sticking and preventing the secondary portion of the carb to operate correctly when the pedal was depressed. With the engine OFF, and the air cleaner removed (not just the lid, but the whole thing), spray LOTS of cleaner all around the outside of the carb. You'll be surprised at how much gunk can be removed by doing this. Save a little for the inside too, no need to run the engine until you're all finished and re-assembled. Please let us know if any of these suggestions worked.
  15. Lots of video editing. Looks like he's using the vacuum to start a siphon. As long as the bucket/bottle is on the ground, it theoretically could work..but very slowly. Just my 2 bucks
  16. As mentioned above, it may be a hose that is kinked, leaking a little, or one of those plastic elbow joints is cracked. They become brittle after a few years. A few years ago I had a hose come loose from one of the connections (on one of those awful Toyotas). Might be a good idea to check for those small things before taking bigger things apart. Just my 2 bucks
  17. I'm pretty sure that's the same stuff I used on my '83 bumpers and black plastic. Rain, snow and carwashes were good for removal (as what happened to you). I always waited until I got to WCSS before applying it. Just my 2 bucks
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