Meeky Moose

yeah a gen1 integra was from years 86-89. mines an 89'

ok, i pulled the arm off of the lever at the front of the tranny, goes into low np.. the way it was on there, it was turning the front diff while in 2wd. (least i think so, maybe thats why it sounded like it needed wheel bearings, and was poppin when i slowed down on the trip home) the lever on the front of the tranny was in the forward position while in 2wd, thus makin it not go into low. so it was rigged just to opposite of what it shoulda been.. in 2wd the lever should be in the back position and in low it should be in the forward position.. thats just by looking at which way the bar moves in the different positions.. i tried adjusting it, couldn't get it to work properly. would only work one way or the other, i either got low and no 2wd, or i got 2wd and no low. 4h seemed to work no matter what, guess since its in between 2h and 4L. the bar has a ball-joint type end and its flexin pretty good and i'm thinkin thats why it won't move the lever properly is there an adjustment somewhere else besides that bar that connect to the lever on the front of the tranny? maybe under the shifter on top of the tranny? shoot me down if i'm wrong on any of this, really wanan get it fixed so i can go climb a tree somewhere

well, i had a jetta once, switched it to synthetic at 93k it didn't start leakin, it started knockin.. so i got rid of it.. last time i've done that.. my acura has had amsoil synthetic run in it since 9k. so when i got it at 164k, to ease the oil finding, i switched it to mobil 1 high mileage half synthetic 10w40.. no leaks and runs quieter than it did with amsoil

ok i bought SVXperts lifted hatch yesterday, drove it home today, all was well.. got home and decided to try out the 4wd... it goes into high range but not low, just flat out won't go into low... he says that it has done that ever since the lift was put on.. so what am i missing here, i checked the linkage, its not binding on anything that i can see.. anything i should look for or check? maybe need a new D/R trans? also, what gear oil should i be running in it? had to change it out on the trip home and all jiffy lube had was 90w.. i'm thinkin it would use 80w90 but just wanna be sure.. will prolly have to change it again to get the right stuff in there...

doh, sorry about your soob, glad to hear that ******* lots his insurance, and fudged his jag all to hell, he deserved it... wrecked my truck today romped on teh brakes, locked all 4 up for a damn dog, and a 24 year old truck doesn't slide straight, it spun sideays, and to keep from flippin it i let off, jumped off an enbankment into some guys yard, took out a couple trees, alot of bushes and grass.. and lived.. broke the mirror all to hell since it took the main blow from one of the trees. scrathed the hell outa the side, got a piece of tree still stuck in the windshield molding, and flat spots on all 4 tires after drivin through the guys yard to get back on the road, i got out looked, breathed a sigh of relief it wasn't mangled.. caught the fudgin dog that ran out in front of me.. ( it had tags) but seems liek someone just dumped it out in the woods, very friendly dog tho.. so took it home called sherriffs office, they had animal control come out.. the guy told me to call the shelter in a few days and see if anyone claims the poor beast.. when i do find out who, they're rump roast is goin to court, and i'm gonna get a nice new chrome mirror, and 4 brand new tires.. (these only had 8k on them) i thought to myself i shoudla just hit the fu$%ing dog, but i'da had a hard time livin with that.. never hit anything but a groundhog before.. ahh well, yeah i would sue him, make him pay for wifes therapy, and sons counseling..

so is it a century 21 car now or a HuD car?

haha, it woulda been better off if a moose hit it... she ran a red light, got broadsided (pas side) by a nissan 200SX doin 65 mph... nissan didn't even slam on the brakes, just slammed into her... anyways, i got picks of the van afterwards, if anyone wants to see just gimme a holler i'll email'em to ya.. frame was bent, both side doors, mangled, they had to pull the pass side wheel to get it on the flatbed to haul its sorry rump roast away... no broken glass tho.. it even broke the center console that covers the engine, so it had to have bent the firewall to break that.. was pretty nifty her and baby were fine, baby was on drivers side.. guy in the nissan went away on a stretcher, alive... when he hit, it spun the van 90degrees and slammed it into 2 other cars sittin at a stoplight, totaled out one ford tuarus sittin there, the other taurus just got a broken headlight.. van wouldn't go in park, and the keys were stuck in it after the wreck too go figure..

maybe this time i'll acctually be able to come, bring the ole wagon.. would have to ride tho, don't think my 2wd would get very far well it might get pretty far down in the sand... gonna tell my wife to take off that saturday.. if she can get it off then we'll come.. maybe i can buy svxperts hatch before hand.. i'll let ya'll know closer to the date if i'm gonna make it for sure or not.. i could always bring the ole ford and be rdy to pull ya all out when ya get stuck of course if it got stuck it'd take 3 soobs to pull it out

so i take it the mooses teeth took out the blinker as it charged, then it spun him around and his rump roast took out the rear pass door? or did ya juet hit him with the rear-end? at any rate, glad ya made it out alive when i was younger i was ridin in the xtra car of a 93 nissan pickup, girl drivin stomped on the brakes when an antelope ran out in front of us. she let off the brakes, the brakes didn't let go... we rolled that truck 3 1/4 times.. i had a couple scrapes, the 2 girls up front had some glass cuts, that was it... after the hospital trip, we went back to the truck, pulled it over on its wheels, changed the 1 and only blown tire, and i drove the damn thing home... we ended up cuttin the top off, made a wicked convertible bush beater. lol

i just always see people ridin around in backs of trucks here, cops following them, then drives on by never says a word. see this on a daily basis here..... if it is illegal then the cops here aren't doin thier jobs lol

well i'd feel alot safer in a jump seat bolted in the car than just ridin in the back of a truck.. and thats not illegal... if ya need seatbelts just hit a scrap yard, get some nice black ones outa anything, bolt em to the bed or jumpseat bracket, and there ya go... since those seats were put in factory and sold they can't be illegal.. just like cars that were made without seatbelts. they cannot make it illegal to not wear a seatbelt in a car that was never made with them.. get my drift...

heh you coulda had my GMC Safari van. bought it, before the first oil change it threw a rod, warranty covered new engine. check engine came on every 500 miles for no apparent reason.. 1k miles later rearend went out, warranty covered that. antilock brakes would lock on dry pavement just pullin up to a light. doors would lock and unlock several times all by themselves at random. drivers door wouldn't lock at all. wiper motors went out front and back. new engine burned 1/2 quart of oil between changes. u joints went out at same time engine did. egr valve was bad on the new engine they put in. fuel pump went out, they had to drop the tank to fix that one. headlight was gettin moisture in it.. heres the good one, #6 fuel injector popped out all by itself. they had to tear the hole top half of the motor off to fix it. couldn't tell me why it just popped out.. they said there was nothing wrong with it either, didn't have to replace anything.. shall i go on?? in the 9 months i owned it between me and the warranty company we spent over 9k on it fixing the f'in thing (still have all the reciepts as a reminder not to buy a Gm product) and it was still in the shop every 2 weeks for a $100-$400 fix... all that was on top of the $282 mo payment and $140 mo. insurance.. then the gas bill for a 15 mpg POS. even tho my wife totaled it and it was her fault, i thanked her for it... insurance paid for it.. and i'm not the least bit sorry its gone.. we've realized how much our Soob is worth to us.. paid $500 for it, drove it 14K miles since feb this year, i put gas in it, change the oil (uses 1/2 - 1 qt between) and drive it like i stole it and still get 30+ MPG. i finally had to replace a cv axle, gotta do the exhaust next, but what can ya expect for havin 288k miles original.. i'd deffinitely buy any $500 soob over another GM product... just my opinion... sorry to hear your soob is lettin ya down.. can't be any worse than that van we had tho... hope ya get it fixed.. i'll trade ya my turbo wagon straight across in as-is condition... i'd like the new seats, mine are a bit worn from the :moon: they've hauled around for 288k...

already had a bag of 300 of those zip ties figure i might as well use'em for somethin.. will check out that spring compressor tho might go that route if they won't hold.. to test i'm gonna put'em on with the car on the ground, then jack it up.. if they break nothin is lost..

hehe you don't wanna know how many miles my struts have (288K) prolly not original but regardless they are blown , back drivers is teh worst, it just bounces and bounces.. but i picked up 4 brand new struts offa good ole ebay for $110 shipped to my door... when they get here i'm gonn aput'em on, to keep the spring compressed when i take it apart i am gonna use 10 or so of those 1" wide zip ties on each spring... pretty sure those will hold it down long enough for me to get the strut replaced and spring back on..

no muffler? just the 2.5" to a 3way cat, then pipe out the back? that sounds about what i wanna do... wheres the O2 sensor go in a custom downpipe?

hey skip, whered ya put the O2 sensor? just curious

ok, i might have found a shop that might fab me an entire exhaust system, told them i was thinkin a bout 2.5" pipe from the turbo to the tailpipe.. guy told me they'd have to see if they could use the flanges on my pipe, which they are all good except the one goin to the turbo, which i have a spare downpipe anywho... my question is can it be done any recommendations:confused: should i put a cat on it or not:confused: should i get the crossover pipe fabbed also while i'm at it:confused: should i go 2.5" or 2":confused: you all prolly know i needed the midpipe anyways, but my welds on the downpipe broke again, so its time this hole damn thing goes.. gettin tired of messin with it.... my appointment is friday so ya'll got a couple days to gimme some feedback on this. thanks..:-p

i got a friend here that has a 92 loyale, hers has been clacking fer bout 6 years she says.. she didn't know what was wrong with it, and shops told her she needed to replace the lifters.. so she asked me one day, i told her replace the oil pump, and it'll be fine. did that and bam was fixed...

na, i took off the ball joint, couldn't get it out of the way far enough to get the axle out, besides i had to beat the crap outa that old axle to get it out, (looks like a mushroom now) i know on most cars ya can do it that way, and its simple and easy.. not my soob :madder:

winter i run castrol 10-40, summer 20-50 castrol and of course the MMO with every change

alright first off, i've changed so many friggin cv axles in hondas, mitsu's, dodges, and a cavalier or 2, but OMG this CV axle in my wagon was the worst one i have ever changed..:madder: so i start by jackin up the car, and puttin it on blocks. then i take off the wheel. i think gee this is going good... then i go to pull the brake caliper off and the damn thing wouldn't come off.. the friggin rotors have got to be original like the rest of the car (288k) they got a lip on them so big the brake pads wouldn't slip off.. after beating in it a few min i gave up takin it off.. so i pull the nut off the axle, pull the washer and flange washer out, pull the rotor (with caliper attached) off. tied it to the coil spring so it wouldn't dangle.. so about then i start thinkin this isn't gonna be so bad... i got the hub off the strut fairly easy (broke 2 screw drivers tho) then, i beat the pin outa the axle (the one that holds it onto the transmission). and there wasn't enough clearance to pull it off the trans, i ended up havin to take the sway bar and A arm off just to get it off the trannsmission. so then I go to pull the cv axle out of the wheel bearing and OMG it was all i could do with a 8lb sledge to get it outa the bearing.. the damn thing musta been jb welded in there (sure felt like it anyways). that was just the first half, took me almost 2 hours. so i get out the new ebay cv axle, laid the old and new side by side, count splines, etc. it was acctually the right one (Amazing huh). so i start thinkin this is gonna go back together fairly easy since i know how it all came apart.. well i started to put the cv axle in the wheel bearing and damn, what do ya know, it wouldn't just slide in nice and smooth. i got it in far enough i could get the washer and nut on it and had to crank on it to get in in the wheel bearing.. so i got it in a littel ways, and left the nut on to hold it in place. i crawwl under the car line up the cv hole and trans hole with a small allen wrench, slide it on real easy.. go to put the pin in (the one that holds in on the trans) well lets just say i never got it in all the way (flush) its still stickin out 1/8" and that was after beatin on it with a pretty hefty hammer.. i figure its in far enough, and it sure as hell aint gonna fall out. so now back to gettin the axle all the way into the wheel bearing.. Smoke break first so i wrench on it some more to get in in far enough so i can put the a-arm and sway bar back together. that wasn't too bad, went together easy.. the i go to put the hub assembly back on the strut and whadda ya know, the damn thing won't just slide back on (broke 2 more screwdriver and pinched my finger (made it bleed) so i cuss at it a little, and it decides to agree with me finally... bolt that all back together, no problems there. so i untie the rotor and caliper from the coil spring, stick it on. then the axle had to still come in some more to put the washers on it. so i flip the nut wrench on it a bit, just enough to get the flange washer on, then wrench on it more to get it all the way in.. (using a 1 1/2 ft long crescent wrench) so after wearin myself out doin that i take another smoke break.. then take the nut off, put the other flat washer on and retighten. almost stood on the crescent wrench to get it on as far as it would go to get the cotter pin in... done. so i bolt the hub back to the rotor, put the wheel on and friggin strip a lug nut off (had to have 288k on it). no biggy i still got 3 other tight ones..:eh: so i go drive the car, take nice tight turns, everything seems fixed.. started about 5:30p.m finished in the dark with spotlights on at about 8:30. so all in all it was a pain in my :moon: really. but it had to be done. the old cv axle had a 2 piece boot that slid up and down the shaft, it was so toasted, clicked while drivin straight too... well this pretty much describes how to do the drivers side CV oxle on a 86 turbo wagon 2wd, in case anyone wanted to know.. i looked like this here when i was done.. I'm not gonna do the pass side when it needs it, i'd rather hand a shop the new axle and let him worry about it.. well worth the $120 labor imo :brolleye:

add it every oil change, mostly just 1/4 of a quart.. has been added as long as the previous owner owned the sube and as long as i have owned it... 288k original, no leaks, ticks, knocks, pinging, nothing, sounds like she's brand new... uses about 1/2 quart - 1 quart between changes tho dependin how heavy my foot is and what honda i am smokin i'm deffinitely a believer in MMO.

well i bought this wagon from Bill Putney, he was 2nd owner. he said all he had to do to it is basic stuff. oh and the turbo is original too i had to put a clutch in it, and i replaced the trans with one that didn't whine.. so i guess its not completely original.. but pretty dern close.. Timing belts were done shortly before i bought the car, so they don't have but maybe 15-20k on them... as for selling the acura, don't think that'll happen.. its too nice, and noone will give me what i want for it since its only got a bluebook of like $1200... i think my soob bluebooks for more than the acura, even with all the miles.. and i'll only be 24 by the time we leave so renting a car is outa the question... would definitely go that route if i could tho

on dec. 20 we're gonna head out to oregon (from Virginia) wife wants to spend x-mas with her family... anyways, i've been debating on which car to take.. we have the 86 turbo wagon (288k original) runs great, no leaks, no funny noises, doesn't burn much of anything, new clutch, etc.. BUT, i am gonna have to get the cv's changed.. now the kicker is the mileage, and the black tar like stuff i keep gettin offa the radiator cap.. the car doesn't use any coolant, or ever need refilling.. it does get warm (not overheating tho)sittin in traffic unless i turn on the electric fan (only fan on it) and when i do check the coolant, the radiator cap has this black tar like stuff on it.. the other choice i have is to take the 89 acura integra (automatic and 170k) it smokes a little, burns a little oil, the auto trans had a problem awhile back shifting, a trans flush seemed to fix that. bout all i would have to do to it before we left is change the timing belt and water pump, front end alignment and maybe some tires.. drivin this i worry about the transmission goin out half ways there, so i'm not sure what to drive any suggestions on what i should drive on this 6k mile trip.. i've driven the soob 12k since feb. this year.. only had the acura for about 4k miles... both get 30+ mpg, both are comfortable, both drive well, but any opinions would be appreciated... i do know if i drive the ole soob and i break down somewhere, i could prolly get some help from some of you all.. with the acura i'd be up a creek without a paddle, lol.

i had a 85 vw jetta wolfsburg edition.. that damn fuel pump had to have been the loudest POS i have ever heard.. it was mounted right down on the passenger side rear door... worked fine just louder than crap... my fuel pump on my turbo wagon hums for a few seconds when i first turn on the key, but then quiets down...