backwoodsboy

If you have a local dealer that you get along with, you could order these straight from them as well. They are still available, and are less than 6 bucks each

Heres your fix : Remove the wiper arm nuts and then the wiper arms themselves. Remove the slotted metal cowling from behind the wipers. The metal pivots that the wiper arms attach to are pressed through white plastic housings. Remove the hardware that attaches these, and pull them free. It is a specific lack of grease INSIDE these that creates the squeaking. Its not a bad job really... and you should only have to do it once. .... worked for me!

Hot DANG!! Howd I miss this thread?! Darlin' Chip and I will be there for SURE! Plannin on bringing a brat down... maybe two. Campin' ... grits... and good times as always. I just cant wait

Ok... Ill admit that this all looks like a mess (or IS a mess) BUT - it seems to me that this is a "rosetta stone" of sorts for all the folks looking to convert their DEAD digi-dash to analog! The FSM is REALLY vague on where all the wires are s'posed to go, BTW. However.... if everything works the way its supposed to, I know of a few people at LEAST that would be VERY interested in a diagram of what has been done here.

Happy B-day man! Hope its a good day for ya.

Hey folks, For my recent b-day, my darling girlfriend bought me a WARN 3700 LB winch. (now THATS a great girlfriend!) http://www.warn.com/works/dcwinches/DC3700.shtml I have everything in place to put it on my lifted brat. Now the hard part.... power. The specifications say that it requires 180 amps with a 2000 LB load, and 297 amps at full capacity. I dont know about you... but I can hear my alternator crying right now! Im sure the answer is going to involve a GM alternator and a larger battery... but what have any of you had good luck with for running winches? THANKS!

Nice. MAN I wish I was there!

4 inch? Rear lines will be OK if you release them from the rear swing arms with a 4" lift. Front lines you really should lengthen. They are OK for highway .... but stretch very tight at full articulation offroad.

Awww! Thanks everybody! It was indeed a great day, and I gots me a new fish pole, tackle box, $$ for my license.... and Darlingchip got me a 3700 LB WARN WINCH!!!! :headbang: The 'ol lifted brat will be going where its never gone before.

:headbang: I was afraid the exhaust was going to give you trouble. If you got it off.... its all downhill from here. Next thing you know... youll be shooting the engine and (empty) engine bay with engine brite and making things all purty and oil free. May LB never leak a drop again.

Go Connie GO!

TTIWWOP :-p

+1 A year ago, I was leery of H/G replacement too.... Why? ...because it had been "hyped" so much by the ignorant public. Meh. :-\ After reading the HTKYSA manual.... it is cake. Literally one "step" above a brake job. If you are leery of using your old motor (I would not be) I have one (actually its Jess's) that has approx 116,000 on it ...and ALSO needs H/Gaskets. I could have the heads machined at my buddy's shop (cheap) and put it together for you. It would be drag and drop to switch out your old engine. Jess and I would gladly spend the 20 bucks in gas... and come out for a Sat/Sun and get that sweet PNW coupe back in action for ya! Then it would be on to fun stuff like leveling out the back end and making it look perfect! EDIT : If you REALLY want to sell it... I will buy it off of you, fix it, and sell it back to you the next week.

Sorry about the headgaskets. :-\ Welcome to the "I have a BIG project on the back-burner" club! I cant even take my brat out this year until I change the clutch! Fun Fun

D/R 4-spd to D/R 4-spd should swap right over. If its a 5-spd D/R there IS a difference. When I did my lift, the hole in the floor was not the problem. Rather, the linkage for the D/R shifter was what got in the way (prevented me from hitting reverse) I cut, moved, and re-welded the problematic section. Also, you may not have trouble (or as MUCH trouble) if your shifter is not "sloppy" If you do have slop, the perfect (and easy) time to fix it is when you are changing trannys. Search on here for shifter slop fix ... there is a great write-up.

:popcorn: looking good!

payment SENT!!!

I read the post .... and never caught this. Thanks!

This is EXACTLY what I wanted to hear! Thanks folks!

I almost did, actually... You can move this if youd like.

So the forester was built on the IMPREZA chassis, right?

Right. Ive done this on a few cars. All of them have had carbs and distys. Running water injection allowed me to advance my timing, while using the 87 octane.

Quick question for the experts: For those not following the thread, SJR is building an EJ lift for an early legacy sedan. I was wondering what other models would share the first-gen legacy chassis platform? (so that the lift points were the same) Thanks!

pump = in tank (get to the wires through the access hole in the floor)

Yeah, the EJs are all in-tank. :-\ Just snip the power wires and hook em up! EDIT : For the sake of clarity.. what make/model/year are we talking about?