backwoodsboy

Get a copy of all his maintenance records if you can. If he doesnt have them, perhaps the dealership where he had it serviced will give them to you. Timing belt is MOST important. At 110,000 miles, it IS due. 110,000 on a properly maintained subaru is NOTHING. If he's taken care of it, its practically new. A/T or M/T? EDIT: The dealership where you are buying it will probably give you a booklet that has recommended maintenance schedules in it. WARNING: Some dealers put together their "own" maintenance booklets that include services that arent necessary, and are overpriced. Look carefully at what they give you (and post it in this thread if you can) They want to make $$ AFTER the sale as well. MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR YOUR SUBIE >>> http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html

As long as you still retain the crossover pipe at the front. Without that, your power will suffer. I also wouldnt run pipe much larger than stock dia. or your low-end will go in the toilet.

After I took the rear driveshaft out, I drove 'er for the whole summer with no problems. At somewhere around the 275,000 mile mark, the (very tired) tranny said enough was enough, and reverse started to slip. I technically still have the car, but it was in bad enough shape .... :eek: :eek: .... that I cannibalized the engine for another project, as I couldnt see spending anymore $$ on a car that only cost me $250.00 "Trusty Rusty" lives on!

You are at the exact point I was at a year ago (only I had a '93) :-p I changed my fluid like you did, and it didnt help much. I drove to avoid the tight turns like you are... and it sorta helped :-\ I put the FWD fuse in the holder... and that helped a lot. (for a while) I ended up removing the rear drive shaft for the spring/summer , as after a while, it began ignoring the fuse. ...and binding anyway. Worst case scenario ... put a j/y tranny in it that has low miles.

Actually, mine looked almost the same as that before I patched my rust. I just didnt take pics of my repair.

Ill second that.

Eh, thats fixable in my salty northeast opinion. Grind 'er back to good.... weld in some reinforcements (doesnt hurt to beef up those rockers while youre in there) .....coat everything inside and out with rust bullet, and youre golden.

If its getting hot, and then settling down as you say, then it may be sticking closed for a short period. I had one that was stuck OPEN.... and all that does is make your car never fully warm up (in winter)

Be careful!

*SNIFF* Im just so proud. Go Jess GO!

Unless youre doing a lift at the same time as swaping in the d/r trans, your shifter will sit the same. You MIGHT want to grab the trim parts out of the donor car though, as you will have the extra D/R lever that you didnt before. Keep your axles, they will be the same.

Gotta love people. Youre welcome to hang here from now on.

That was my guess as well.

Depends on what you call a huge job. If the idea of installing a lift doesnt scare you, then swapping a tranny shouldnt either. Pull your engine, pull the trans, swap in the d/r, and re-install engine.

Mine arent on a roll bar... but the location is the same. I use my lights on the back roads, and offroad. They do a nice job of lighting up my dash, as well as the terrain. I wouldnt say theyre distracting, but it is NOT dark in my cab when they are on.

That is beautiful, nice find. Also nice work on the breather!

On a ___________?

Ah, my rustbelt brother.... my 95 did the exact same thing. Feel your pain. It is WAY too much of a PITA to snake new lines up through all the same places (by the tank) I put fittings on the "good" section of lines that sit under the rear seat... and poked them down through the same rubber fitting. Then run 'em over to the rear calipers! EDIT: I dont believe that this is anything more than a double connector

I thought that too

301K on a 4EAT? Somebody did all their fluid flushes.

$11,100.00 for an EA82 3AT?! = moron wow. It says "very little rust" .... very LITTLE rust? That thing better have 5 miles on it and be rolling of the showroom floor for $11,100.00 ! EDIT: Im with Skip, actaully.

Its OK... Im not dangerous. Look, I even put my knife down to work. (by the pass. headlamp)

We HAVE done this thread before, but... 275,000 on my 93 legacy wagon when the tranny lost reverse. Still runs like a top, and the engine is going to be swapped into another subie. Original 4EAT and EJ22 (with two t-belt changes) 215,000 on our 95 legacy EJ22 5MT ...and 202,000 (ish) on Bucky the 92 Loyale wagon EA82 5MT

First of all, Welcome... and congrats on the new subie! I know just what youre talking about though. I grew up riding in and driving old subes. In 2004 I bought a new subaru. It felt ....well, I guess "sterile" is the word. :-\ I was actually glad after a year or so when it started getting broken in and started having quirks (albeit little ones) On a better note, if your 98 had a phase 1 2.5 liter, you may have saved yourself the cost and aggrivation of a headgasket replacement on it by trading in. Its the dealers problem now. If you miss driving an older sube (like I did) get yourself a 92-95 stick-shift legacy wagon with the 2.2 liter. Rock solid engine, great 5 spd, and AWD! In any case, post some pics of your new ride!!!

Ok boys and girls.... not really trying to revive last years thread or anything .....but the fuel pump solved it... He's cured! 'ol Buck is starting and running WONDERFULLY! Thanks for advice everyone!