backwoodsboy

The "manual" switch has nothing to do with AWD engagement, and everything to do with keeping the vehicle in the gear you have selected.... second gear, for instance.

To my knowledge, he has been "lightly used" for most of this past summer.... and not in use for the last 3 months or so. He has been started and run regularly, and I just gave him 1/2 tank of premium with a bottle of the STP carb & FI cleaner. As Connie says, he runs better when warmed up, but is sluggish when not. 1-2k RPMs is (very) sluggish, and then normal power resumes when you hit about 3k..... ???

Dont you worry..... he's just testing me to see if Im worthy! My sisters not working for a couple weeks now, and I have something else to drive... so he knows he can get away with this. Reveeen: *the check for voltage at pump connector comes back good.... *the check for pressure at pump comes back almost nil. (this was after a no-start situation) Put the connector back together and he fired right up! GD: I will keep testing.

Hey all, I finally got the 'ol Buckster inspected, insured, registered, and on the road, BUT..... I think hes throwing his first fit for me. I hope he's not homesick. SYMPTOMS: -lack of power on acceleration, (almost feels like MAF)... but idles smoothly (accel problem is better w/warm engine, but still there.) -fuel pump noisy enough to be heard from the driver's seat w/engine running -has failed to start on two seperate occasions now. WILL start after some begging.....but not right away. I would USUALLY suspect tune up/fuel filter etc as the root of the problem, but Connie has replaced all that already! NEW RELEVANT PARTS: -plugs/wires -cap/rotor -timing and acc belts From my quick search, I have gathered that the ea82 "outside of tank" pumps DO go bad sometimes. ? (Sorry, I havent owned a Loyale in a few years here, folks) Am I missing something? If no.... anybody have a pump for sale?

Tune that baby up! EA 82s ARE underpowered...... but you should be able to take *most* hills in at least 3rd gear. Change your: -Plugs -Air/fuel filters -wires -cap/rotor etc. Could also be a plugged cat converter (check 'er at night after going for a drive - make sure its not glowing red) Hows your cooling system / temp gauge? Edit: Is it carbed or F/I ? If its carbed.... give it a good cleaning/spraying

That is correct. My 93 would always do the same thing (they all do) Just how the car is built.

Yes. Behind the rear seats are your (2) access panels. The pass side panel comes off to reveal the fuel pump top and nuts that hold it to the tank.

Passenger side panel

For a quick-fix on that throttle cable, Ive had very good luck with just about any spray lube that contains TEFLON. Give the cable a good shot at both ends during a warm time of day, and repeat as necesssary. It wont take long to free that baby up. (also will work for hood-latch cables sticking.... or manual choke cables)

I was thinking of your PAM post from last year, the other day. I must buy some of this PAM, of which you speak.

I just put a blown fuse in the holder, and wrapped a wire over each blade. The other end of the wire was connected to a switch in the ashtray with the wires loosely threaded in. If I was to be in an accident, one quick pull on the wire would yank out the switch, wire, and blown fuse. ....and a spare (good) fuse left in the ashtray was there handy to slide right in.

I had ABS in my BAJA. I hated it when stopping in the snow. With the antilock, the snow tires never get a chance to "bite down" into the snow when stopping, and greatly increases your stop-distance. It IS nice when someone is braking WHILE turning (#1 sin of winter driving) Like Nipper says..... it helps most people maintain control.

I dont know if the guy at Autozone knows anything about studs, or is just "throwing this out there" ....but I dont believe you will have lasting luck with screws. While they ARE made of hardened metal, they dont have tungsten carbide pins in the center like real studs do.... and will not hold up long. I know youre gonna try it anyway... so let us know how you make out, I will be very interested

The steps came standard with jumpseats. My brat is an '86 as well, and I wondered the same thing for about 6 months

Do you get lots of ice in the winter? Not picking here, but I hope you werent serious about the sheet metal screws. Complicated little suckers, studs are. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/tiretech/winter_tire_studs_pile.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp%3Ftechid%3D151%26autoModClar%3D&h=185&w=250&sz=9&hl=en&start=2&um=1&tbnid=j5PkzF5UeSNNKM:&tbnh=82&tbnw=111&prev= I used to run studs, but now actually prefer to drive without them. I bought a set of the Hankook winter iPike snows, and have put them though their paces already. Mine do wonderfully without studs.

lookin good! Almost too pretty for mud..... almost The tint really makes 'er stand out

Hey Bret! Welcome to the USMB. Looks like you are only a couple hours south of Darlingchip and I.... and less than an hour from Harry's U-PULL-IT in Hazleton! If you need help/advice with your loyale, just ask. I grew up driving one.... and Im now a proud owner of a second

As long as it is mold.... and not mouse-nest Lysol does NOT work on mouse nests!

I just tossed my 14" hankook winters on yesterday. They are great on-pavement and off. I cant wait till winter really sets in!

I took the field to go next door. After all the rain.... there were foot deep muddy ruts! Not really an "offroad trip" ...but LOTS of MUD!!!

Check as many wires as you possibly can. I have seen rodents do some strange things to wiring harnesses, and they always seem to chew just a *few* wires that will make your car run like crap..... instead of the whole bundle, which could be easily spotted! .....its hard to believe its time to put our summer rides away already! My brat got put up this past sunday after a good mud run.

Steve, .......back the bus up for just a second. This is far from terminal. If they are saying your car is dead from rust, then mine must be a zombie, cause yours is NEW in comparison. I honestly think you should get a second opinion. Really. Any shop CAN do the work for you. It sounds to me like they are just tired of your vehicle coming there. Your sedan is one of THE NICEST condition ea81s I have seen lately on this coast. I have been underneath your car, and you are YEARS away from "hard to fix" rust ..... and not even CLOSE to "not worth it to fix" rust. Im SERIOUS. I would take that thing off your hands in a second. The only thing Im not sure about is how inspections work in your state....but I got my brat to pass NYS insp. (and they are picky about rusty frames) ...and my brat doesnt even HAVE those front panels anymore that are rusty on your car. If you cant find anyone to help ya, then I would suggest that you need some redneck involvement! I would be happy to do a welding get-together this spring. Your car will be CAKE to fix.

Toyotas are great vehicles (Ive seen 'em with 600,000 miles and still going) Either a sube or a toyota will last you just as long with proper care...... BUT, youre on a subie board asking if you should buy a sube or a toy. I would hafta say unless you want to REALLY offroad with this thing..... go for the subie, and enjoy all the attention you will get.

I dont bother to catch the little bit that spills either.....but I always have been at the shop when I do this work. I dont dare spill coolant at the house. Too dangerous for the pets.

Being a "non-timing belt" motor, the only places Ive ever seen an EA81 leak oil are from the valve cover gaskets, the oil pump, pressure sender, pan...and the mains. EDIT : oops! McBrat beat me to it!