backwoodsboy

One that always works for me is PB BLASTER. Spray'er down..... beat with hammer..... wait for a while.... repeat.

Most grease I've found wont soak in as well. It also has a tendency to dry out and flake off (in my experience)

Dont get me wrong..... there is no replacement for grinding ALL the rust off, rust proofing (POR-15 is great stuff) and/or repainting. However, if you are like me....and drive a soob that you bought for a few hundred bucks, and that has significant rust.... you probably just want something fast and easy to slow the rust down, and without spending lots of $$$....or large amounts of your time:grin: I put the oil in a big squirt bottle, and heat the bottle in some boiling water (just until it gets hot enough to flow freely) Then you shoot it into all the rust-prone areas you can find. On areas already rusted through.....your best bet is to grind back to good metal, and fix it right if you can. PS - used oil seems to "soak into" metal better than new oil, and sticks on longer. (my grandfather has painted parts with used oil for 50 years) -just my redneck 2 cents:grin:

I use hot oil on all my vehicles, personally. I know of no "professional" places to get it done.....so I heat my own, and spray it in myself. It DOES prevent rust....VERY well. It IS messy:brow: ....and it will de-stabilize existing rusty areas. -IF they are rusted straight through. Oh BTW ....used motor oil works WAY better than new. ....and way better than WD40

Ive got a '93 leagacy with the 2.2.....and the same problem. Somebody on here was saying the other day that replacing the gasket where the oil fill tube meets the block is the key. It makes sense to me......changing that gasket would stop the vacuum leak, and kick the idle up enough to stop the vibration. Im gonna try it for myself, and let yall know!

'93 legacy wagon A/T 257,000 miles getting a timing belt and all the goodies this weekend:banana:

Thank you!!! This board rocks:headbang:

Ok....... I have searched around, and got info for PULLING tranny trouble codes. I have gotten conflicting info on how to DECIPHER them though. One place said that LONGS = 5 and SHORT = 1 another place said that LONG = 10 and SHORT = 1 :-\ :-\ :confused: I have 2 codes - #1 - 2 long and 4 short #2 - 3 long and 2 short anybody have a factory chart? Thank you much!!

I have NEVER seen a fuel gage that full!! :slobber: ....or an ea-81 dash that clean

I dont.....but sounds like a sweet idea for a shirt Id love one if you will be sellin 'em:grin:

The '93 I just bought had a similar problem....only the leak was from behind the driver's rear wheel. The previous owner thought it was the tank, but it turned out to be one of the fuel lines. I took off the two access panels that are under the rear cargo area, and routed new rubber hose down to the metal nipples where the fuel lines go back up into the body (under driver's rear wheel) This MAY be your fix.....or it may possibly be a rust issue where the filler tube meets the tank (since you say it leaks from the passenger rear) Hope this helps

Which engine are we talking about here? EA82?

Another east-coast member! woohoo! Welcome.

:clap: :clap: Love the 3rd eye BTW:headbang: Looks like U had fun (makes me wanna go)

Welcome to USMB! You will love your subaru, and this is the BEST place to find tons of info about it. Have fun!

Ill second this .......my '93 legacy has 257,000 on 'er and she still drives nice and tight, no taps, no oil burning...no BS:headbang:

Rule #1 .....never turn down a free subie! :banana:

Thats just wrong......:-\

SO COOL I grew up driving tractors, and have had this idea for years. Nice to see that someone made it work so well!

My '93 legacy is well on its way:cool: 257,000 miles......yeah baby:headbang:

Ill have to second that :-\ Hyundai is getting bett-ER .....but still a long way to go. KIA .....well, dont even get me started (sorry KIA owners) .....and then there were Daewoos:lol: :lol:

Exactly

Cool. VERY cool. :cool: Thanks Nipper

Thanks Its actually for my 2.2 legacy. The whole car cost me 250.00, and its got 250k on the motor/trans. I dont wanna go el-cheapo on the parts.....but if a Gates belt is just as good, why pay full pop for parts on a car that already has rust & other issues. I just posted this to fish for "horror stories" if there were any.....and if that IS the case, Ill just go OE Thanks all!

Yeah....that was kinda what I'm looking for. Anybody got 100K on one of these babys yet?