keltik

How many volts is this thing throwing out? I recently killed a voltage reg in mine and it would miss bad once the revs/volts got up. Ran great at idle tho.

One of the previous owners clocked the torsion bars. I've raised it since then as it was sat on the bump stops.

Oh and who doesnt love a bit of video, this was the last part of the event Also i dont buy the torque bind theory since the howl was dependant on throttle and speed. My Legacy is quiet even with the center diff locked up lapping roundabouts in the dry.

Oh yeah, and what it looked like back in October...

Sharing a couple pics here because i think you chaps might enjoy them. I managed to get my brumby together in time for the Cannonball Run here in NZ. I had a few small issues i might mention in case anyone wants to chime in with some advice. 1) RHF Outer CV joint started to seize and run super hot. Massive shuddering in the steering and dangerous handling ensued. I was a few hundred miles from home so cut the CV boot off and doused it with CRC/WD40. With repeated applications, it came smooth and would run quietly for about 50km between re-lubes. Covered another 600km since that fix and now im home safe so its time to fix it. Had never seen one seize before! 2) To take the load off the front axles, i used 4WD for short stints on the highway. I discovered the rear diff is whisper quiet in 2WD but howls like a woman scorned in 4WD. I wonder whats broken in there. 3) Oil pressure was iffy at best. I dont trust my save-barn gauges much since their tachometer is a blatant liar, but it indicates about 10-15psi hot idle with 30psi highway running. Getting a maximum of 45psi when warming up on the way to work. Enough text, PICTURES!

Figured out the wonky electrics. There is a ground wire from the instrument cluster that runs to the LH/passenger side of the dash then loops back across to the drivers side grounding point. This wire was broken on mine. Thanks for the diagrams, they helped me get the new light switch working a treat. Now i have a small issue of voltage drop on the accessory line, but theres plenty of info on here about how to fix that.

I'm slowly reassembling my EA81 1990 Brumby and swapped in a combination light switch from a 1986 GL model. It had 6 wires in the plug, mine had 5. I thought I had rewired and pinned everything correctly since all of the lights work (except dash lights). Using my multimeter ive found 2 live wires into the switch, then one circuit for park lights, one for headlamps, one for tail lamps and one for dash illumination lights. But heres where the problems start.... With the tail lights on or brake lights active, the temp gauge starts climbing. Using the turn signal on either side causes both indicators on the gauge cluster to flash. So ive clearly cocked something up here. Any advice or diagrams would be greatly appreciated. This thing is pretty stripped out and runs the absolute bare minimum equipment....so it should be simple enough to figure out. I think I might have used the 2 power feeds the wrong way around and so the current draw for the tail lights is coming from the same circuit as the instruments. But its also possible the massive cut section of loom where the heater/radio used to be is needed for something.

Hi guys! Im completely stumped with my brumby, I cant seem to find the relay for the radiator fan. Im guessing there isnt one since the fan refuses to run. So where should it be? In the process of rebuilding a stripped out super basic brumby for having some fun in the valleys over summer. So far this is the most confusing problem! (Legacy still going good btw, finally run out of extras to bolt onto it and havnt crashed this one at all in 6 years )

My guess would be the cap or rotor is the wrong one for the new distributor. Have had this issue with my carbed EJ. 2 Different distributors are available and while the cap and rotors will physically fit - they dont work.

185/70 will have a larger diameter than 175/70 as the second number denotes tire profile as a percentage of width. Thus 70% of 185mm > 70% of 175mm. So following this, your new tires should read a slower speed than the old ones as they dont need to spin as fast to travel the same distance. Also, different tire manufacturers have different standards for measuring tread width. So one manufactuers 185 might be closer to 195mm wide and therefore have a different profile again. If your speedo is electronic - there are home build kits available which let you calibrate the speedo by wiring it in line with the sensor. I currently use one of these in my Legacy to compensate for using completely the wrong transmission. One theory to solve your problem: I have heard of oil/grease/lube of whatever sort seeping out of the top of the speedo cable and gumming up the internals of the cluster. This just gets progressively worse until your speedo reads waaaaay higher than what it should. Could be worth popping the cable out of the back of the cluster and making sure that hasnt happened. Edit: Crap just re-read edrachs post and it seems i wasnt very original with my solution

I believe Waimaks has a dual carb setup for his GSR. Unsure if it ever had the choke linkage on it. All i know is the jetting was all to piss and he never got it to run right. Could be worth sending him a PM

Sorry peoples, by fuel surge - i mean fuel starvation during cornering. I get a very sudden loss of power, in fact its a total loss of power for a second or 2 until i straighten out - then off at full power again. The carb is definately a Weber DGAV32/36. I know this because i have rebuilt it twice and it has DGAV3236 stamped on its ID plate... The float bowl is on the passenger/left side of the carb and the jets are in the drivers side of the float bowl - so under right hand corners, all of the fuel would be thrown over to the left and away from the jets right? Fuel pressure is being held constant at 2.2psi by a regulator. I can set it anywhere from 1-4psi. There is a gauge fitted for keeping an eye on this.

G'day chaps, Getting fuel surge in my weber 32/36 on tight right handers. The float bowl is off to the left side (passenger side here) of the carb so it makes sense to me that the cornering force is throwing the fuel away from the jets. Its not the end of the world for me as it takes a fairly tight corner to cause the surge - and by that point, trying to put much power down results in wheelspin. Currently running a smidge over 2psi fuel pressure and 38mm float level with the foam floats. I also have available to me 3 other parts carbs, one of which uses the brass float. Twisting the carb 90* isnt really possible with the manifold im using so any tricks would be appreciated - im sure you wheelers have something to beat this.

Having loaded an EA71, EA81 and EJ22 into my wagon all in the same day - i can say there isnt a big difference in wait. The EJ was about 20kg heavier at the most. I'd stick with rear drums if this is your daily driver, (but if your running 27" tires im guessing it isnt).

My bad advice at this point; Run a home made DIY catch can, slap in some stop-smoke oil additive and rape it until you can afford a junkyard motor.

Yeah this whole exercise would be a bit pointless keeping with 13 inch rims. Ive already stuck a carbed ej22 with imp trans in the car. Re-drilling hubs to 6x139 shouldnt be out of the question. Ive gone with the cutting springs method for the very short term but will be looking into the civic strut option or just making my own adjustable coil overs.

Crappy coroded battery terminals caused this problem on my XT turbo. When cranking the ecu/fuel pump wasnt seeing a high enough voltage to get everything going.

I have identical symptoms on my EA81. The blower fan would work some days and not others...now it has died completely and winter is coming. I dont appear to be getting power at the switch, resistor pack or motor. Do the earlier cars have a relay too?

Heyo chaps. The hatch is running great after a few tuning issues (worn throttle shafts) and will be going to the dyno on Saturday. Finally got the last bits of the engine and trans swap finished and now she's drivable again. Everythings coming along nicely and im rushing a little bit to get the car as good as possible for the ClubSUB national meet on April 15th. At this meet i plan on throwing the hatch around Taupo racetrack and am hoping to lower it beforehand. Ive seen another fellah on here who used EG Civic coilover struts in the front. I was hoping someone could give me more information on this or ideas on another transplant that could work. Ive got some whiteline sway bars for it and have been replacing rusty panels all summer so now its time to drop it and have some fun.

Used a distributor from a EJ18 and im still using the EA71 coil. All seems to be working nicely

Yup, the EJ22 is fitted and running perfectly. Using a Weber 32/36 mated to a modified EJ18 manifold. Am also using a 1996 FWD Impreza gearbox which has the correct spline count for the EA81 front half shafts. The gear linkage worked fine and i made up a custom clutch cable. Have built a custom exhaust for it, added some wheels, done a little bit of tuning and once again have a running car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XIWzcWpZg8 Next battle is to fix up a couple small rusty spots and lower it.

Have hit first big problem with this cunning plan. Need a mint set of fenders to make the molds from.... Anyways. I'll continue looking. But yes shawn - your right. Was mainly posting on here as i know all of the New Zealand guys keep an eye on this place.

Ah yes. Fender. Thankyou

Any interest in these? Im considering getting a mold made but its only really worth my time if i can sell a few sets to recoup the costs. The molds would be based off the stock EA series hatchback/brumby guards. They would ship ready to paint and bolt on. Pretty much impossible to find rust free guards in this country. Figured this option could work. Probably going to be around $150NZD per guard. For all who might be a bit confused - Guard = Fender = Metal panels on the front corners of the car which usually extend rearwards towards the leading edge of the front doors.

I believe this qualifies me to post here: Board Member: Keltik Engine: EJ22 with Weber 32/36 Chassis: 1979 DL Hatchback Tranny: EJ16 Impreza FWD 5 Speed Other: Using EA Alternator and EJ18 carb manifold and distributor