keltik

'89 Legacy - 130,000ish miles '97 Legacy - 55,000miles before it was totalled

Dam i like that badge for the turbo sedan, would take it off your hands but i just epoxied my badge onto the back of my soob so i dont think its coming off.

My vote is for an XT6, it should fit your commuting bill better. But if you want a wagon to throw things in the back of you cant beat an EA82 with SPFI. Im surprised nobody mentioned a D/R early Legacy....

Could shove a spirit level in there and call it good. On my grandads rover the LCD display for the radio is there - no screen on the radio face plate just buttons - very stupid design. Hows about widening the hole a bit and installing an in-dash pie warmer?

270 to 110 is quite depressing too but i have to agree with the thread title lol. Also YES! its not what youve got its how you drive it, proven by me passing a 911 this morning. I mean sure he was probly idling in 4th gear and i was a hair off the redline screaming "go faster!!!!" but i bet i was having more fun.

Awesome service there, and one day im gonna find some of that stuff that gives your car the new smell. Personally i'd say stick with good ol' dino oil unless you plan on running this car for over another 100,000kms where the benefits of running synthetic would really be noticed. Theres so many scary problems like piston slap and noisy lifters, not to mention oil leaks - i would stick with bog standard oil. Its cheaper too

I find a dam good kick to the tire wall breaks the wheel loose 9 times out of 10 (also good for releiving stress). One time that didnt work i drove the car to the nearest shop and paid $5 for them to balance the wheel. Was worth the money to watch the mechanic person try to get the wheel off, and i learned a few new words.

Im looking forward to the outcome of this one. Personally i think the short distance towing will drastically reduce the life of your transmission but it will still work. We'll know soon enough. (Ive done the same with a non-subaru auto awd vehicle and it lived to see another hard thrashing)

Well im sure for well under 3 grand you can get an engine imported. In fact for under 3 grand you could get the front clip of a car imported from new zealand including the purchase price, and thats all the way from down under. Maybe go see a jap car importer and see how much to have the engine of your choice. Despite all my rantings about this wonderfull EJ18, go get an EJ22 cos the 1800 is rather gutless. I shall be doing the same shortly.

Identical problem here, in my case knocking the air con off helps a bit, the higher idle speed the air con demands makes it more noticeable in my car as im coasting down the main street in our town. Looking over my car the only things i can put it down to are shot engine mounts. I dont really notice it in any of our other cars.... Either way i'll keep an eye on this thread in case any good solutions come up i can try. Its almost like the engine wont coast in gear at low speeds, it either wants to be accelerating or slowing down.

People who hate ECU's are still forgetting you "can" get carbed EJ series engines. It seems like a good solution to me. I think the general consensus is the EA81 wont make good power so why not skip the first step of messing with the EA series and go for an EJ. Also - being in the UK you might want to try for a SPFI EJ series engine, carbs get cranky in the cold and the M25 is not a nice place to break down. Throttle body injection is relatively easy to wire up and the advantages are huge over a carb. I dont know how easy it is to source engines in the UK but consider the money you'd be putting into getting 120hp out of your EA81, then consider having an EJ18 with all the kit you need imported. Or bolt the SPFI/carb manifold onto an EJ22 and get even more torques to play with. My 20 cents/pence whatever....

Im going to be doing my timing belt soon.....my EJ18 has a distributor. But im sure its still all good, i cant think of a way to get the ignition timing out as long as the belts on and all the marks line up.

My guess is throttle position sensor, this usually controls how hard the tranny shifts and is also used in working out the fuel maps. Go get your codes read from autozone or somewhere and let us know what it comes up with. Its very likely the engine and tranny issues are related. Edit: Oh and as for the binding during turns, try a search for "torque bind" on here and see if it matches the problems your having whilst turning.

On a similar note, around here when im behind a turbocharged car, as soon as they boot it to pass someone a brief puff of brown smoke shoots outta their exhaust. Someone told me its the ECU over-fuelling before the turbo's spooled up. That true?

You can have the wheel if you want to pay shipping. And as for Josh's site, nice page counter....but thats all i see? Are we talking about legacy-central.org?

Well my friend got sick of driving his hondasexual civic and decided to buy a real car. Ive seen one like that somewhere before. Its nice and clean on the inside too. Anyways, it does have some minor problems (aside from the steering wheel being on the wrong side). It wouldnt idle when cold when we first got it, so i replaced the engine coolant sensor and the IACV off my parts motor, now it runs good. However it has this nasty habbit of just cutting out - total loss of engine at a random time. It usually occurs just as im about to pass someone or taking a sharp bend where power steering would be nice. Ive run the codes and we get a 23 (fixed the MAF this morning - wires were loose) and nothing else. I want to run D check and see if that comes up with anything, can someone redirect me to some instructions for doing it on EJ series engines? Any ideas or suggestions on the stalling issue are completely welcomed. It does it hot or cold and the engine will always restart easily. Its a 1990 EJ20 MPFI, non turbo with a AWD Autospastic slushbox.

I wonder if the 99 RS has variable valve timing? Sounds like exactly what happens on a Honduh if you unplug the veetak.

My 97 Legacy had absolutely horrid chatter, it had been sitting on the dealer forcourt for a year. After a bit of hard driving tho it would smooth out. I heard an over heated friction plate is what causes this? With all the other cars i drive, all of them have smooth responsive clutches. If i'd had chance to do a clutch job i would have wanted the Legacys clutch to be as smooth as the other cars - no chatter at all.

Silly me, completely forgot tire size in that one - and trying to figure it all out using that seems a bit hard. I guess the transmission should have some kinda marking on it, even if it doesnt match its only a new rear diff to sort things out right?

No idea if this will help you but all of the JDM 5speed cars ive been in (about 8) have needed 3000rpm exactly for 100kph in 5th gear. Maybe that can help you figure out if the final ratios are similar. It seems this one particular ratio is very common in japanese market Subarus.

So if ive grasped the laws of physics that would be the same as myself stood on the end of a foot long wrench? If thats the case i think ive got it covered......definately time to add a torque wrench to my tool kit.

I loosened mine using the "bump the starter" trick, and to tighten it i shoved the car in gear with a friend standing on the brake pedal. I just want to ask tho - how much force should i be putting onto that bolt to tighten it. Is it a case of just givin it hell or do i need a specific torque? I dont own a torque wrench and cant afford a good one, when it comes to important things like head bolts i can beg/steal/borrow one.

If yours is similar to mine, the LED that provides the backlighting for the LCD display is somewhat built into the LCD panel, if your comfortable soldering small components then id say just dig into it. But realistically your just as well off buying a new head unit. Theyre pretty cheap these days and youll get the benefit of clearer sound and better radio reception from a decent aftermarket one.

Ooops i mean theres a quad cam 16 valve sticker on the side of the car.....but ive got those SOHC heads. However i have seen a 1992 EJ18 with quad cam, didnt get any pics of it tho. I think its about time Subaru dealt out an efficient high revving engine, Honda and Toyota have been doing it for years.

+1 from me, they seem to do rather well in smash ups. So how big was this light pole thingy?