keltik

Ive noticed if i set the hand brake and then shove it into park, i can get back into my car a pull off happy. If i hold the car on park and then set the hand brake - when i pull it out of park again i hear a big CLUNK and the car jerks a bit so theres definately some strain on the transmission doing it that way. I dont know if the transmission park thing is designed to hold the cars weight but my owners manual says no.

Some of us (meaning myself) do it to feel better after buying an automatic slushbox when we really wanted a manual. I also do it because my TCU cant keep up with my right foot and enjoys leaving me between gears when i REALLY need the power. Ive gotten over enthusiastic and shifted from D4 into neutral on the occasion....but i always wondered what would happen if i hit reverse one day. Either way my verdict is go for it - shift it yourself and show that computer whos boss.

Its cool...but i see these driving around all day: Now that Impreza/Brat conversion that Phizinza photochopped would be cool!

I've noticed the underside of my car has some rusproofing stuff painted on (can see the brush marks). Its a fairly thick coating (2-5mm) and has a rubbery texture. I dont know when it was applied, but 10 years and 280,000kms after leaving the factory - the underside of my car is completely rust free. The only corrosion i have is tiny spots on the bodywork from stone chips.

Then we can buy chocolate by the calorie. But seriously ive often wondered just how much of my gas never makes it into the tank, on a good hot day theres a stream of thick wavy fumes coming out the filler. Over a 60 liter fill its gotta amount to something? As for a fuel saving mod - is LPG a viable option in the US?

In Wales i remember Subaru's being rather rare. In fact all i remember seeing were Vauxhalls and Fords and maybe the occasional Fiat. Rover was also a popular choice and most of the cars were FWD. However here in New Zealand they've got more Subarus than you can shake a stick at. Stood outside work a few months ago i counted 14 Subaru Legacys parked in line of sight, and two Brats. Here the car market is FAR more diverse, Holden, Mazda, Toyota, Honda, Ford, BMW, Mercedes etc i could go on but basically anything that isnt American (except for that one d*ck with a LHD Cutlass). Edit: Oops, yes i know Ford is American and Holden is basially GM but you get the point.:-p

So let me see here, you are going to stiffen the tranny mounts to reduce the torque lost on take off by the transmission moving.... Unless your mounts are completely shot, the box is only going to rotate a few degreees even if you dump the clutch. Theres also that anti-torque bar or whatever its called going from the firewall to the engine to stop it from moving. So you cant be losing that much power. If however you're talking about the *gap* between hitting the gas and the car accelerating (due to all the transmission internals taking the load) then i dont think you can improve it much on a 20 year old car. Even on our 2004 Volvo theres about 10-20 degrees of play in the wheel before the engine side of the driveline starts spinning. Apologies for confusing this topic even more, but i wanna know whats going on.

I just went to www.howstuffworks.com After an hours worth of reading ive got all the concepts straight in my head and have a fair idea how it all works, except planetary gearsets. If anyone knows a good site explaining those please enlighten me.

11pm rallying down a back road, hit some gravel and wiped out a mailbox. The car was a front wheel drive POS and couldnt even get back off the post. Took five minutes swearing at it whilst jacking it up. Next time we want pics!

My Honduh does it too, In my case its a combination of the IAV opening and the ECU adjusting everything so the engine doesnt need as high a throttle setting for 100kph. Theory proven by holding the throttle open keeping the RPM at 2500, after 10 seconds it will have creeped up to almost 2800 without changing throttle position. And i have NO idea if this applies to a Subaru....

If youre wanting some real bolt on power, this should do the job. No fabrication needed - it just plugs into your air intake! http://i.walmart.com/i/p/00/02/47/61/01/0002476101247_215X215.jpg

Call for LPGSuperChargedBrumby, im pretty sure hes done it with impressive results.

The cam from my old Prelude had similar 'erosion' on the edge of a few of the lobes. However, whenever it was running the tacho stayed in the red. It was given an absolute thrashing and i never checked the oil. Basically everything was wrong, no air filter, no warm up, poor lubrication and overheated daily. It didnt idle either but i dont think i can blame that on the cam. I dont know what caused the metal to pit like that, but its the only time i've seen it happen without saltwater getting involved.

In my torx bolt encounter I tried heaps of sockets but in the end used the round not-open end of a 10mm spanner. It worked perfect and i was even able to give them a dam good tightening afterwards. Lesson learned: The round end of the spaner is good for something after all. My 10cents (now that 2's and 5's are out of circulation)

Im not getting at you im just asking, how can a driveshaft go wrong? Isnt it just like one big long pole with some bolts at each end? :-\

I switched to one size thinner/taller tires on my wagon. I dont have any exact mpg figures yet but i have seen the rpm required for 100kph cruise drop from 2900 to 2800ish. Ive also recorded a 3mpg gain from driving at 85-90kph instead of 100kph. My car only needs 2400rpm at the reduced speed.

My old mans volvo definately fits into the serpentine category, all of the accesories are run from one LONG 3 ribbed belt. Its got one tensioner and runs through so many different pulleys you need a phd to install it. Personally i think the ribbed belt designs are easier to change but they are definately easier to damage. I had an alternator belt snap on my car where a small stone had gotten jammed between the belt and the crank pulley, it just ripped a chunk outta the belt and made me an hour late for work as you have to drop an engine mount to change the belt on my wagon (stupid Hon-duh). Its not worth the effort of swapping IMHO.

I just went to the local ricer store and got their cheapest 10inch sub box. It was $40NZD carpeted and it even came with the wooly stuff in it. Also have 7inch Blaupunkt component speakers behind those covers and an Alpine amp running the rear stuff.

Just wondering here but is the temperature gauge accurate? When its reading hot do you actually get a boil over or could the gauge be lying? Doesnt happen often but ive seen it. Other than that you could try removing the thermostat and top rad hose, see if Anything flows with the engine running.

Just out of curiosity here, how often does the miss occur at idle? I know john's brat does it, but its by no means an issue. Just one of those old car quirks.

The one in my old XT was sticky and didnt click. I just cleaned all the grime off the switch (amazed to find it was orange not black) and gave it a shot of silicone lubricant spray. Worked the button a few times and it worked great - apologies if the switch you're referring to is a different design to that in an XT.

Ok well im going to avoid Fram filters. Now i have the option of OEM stuff from the stealership or Repco filters. Any kiwis on the board have an opinion on the Repco stuff? Also the dealer wants $175 for a set of Ignition leads, the aftermarket places cant get any. I know its a Honda but that cant be right can it? Do the leads really need replacing? I currently have no engine problems but im a big fan of preventative maintenance.

Whats the general opinion of Fram parts? i.e oil filters, air filters etc. This might be better in the off topic section but as the parts are gonna be fitted to a new gen vehicle - here seemed good. Here in New Zealand i have a massive choice of Fram parts from Super Cheap Auto, Repco brand parts from Repco or OEM parts from the stealership. As my car is due for a 30,000 mile service, what supplier should i go with. I know to go OEM for ignition parts and Castrol for oil. Any help appreciated.

Ouch. All i can offer is take your time with repairs and maintenance, if its not 100%, dont drive until it is. Double check your repairs from now on to prevent another issue like this one. Good luck tracking down the knocking but i think to get this car reliable again the engine is gonna need a tear down to see whats happened.

Allow me to be the first to say; Just do an EJ swap. Parts are more easily available and it can be done quite cheaply. From what ive read, after youve added up all the cost for parts and such, its not that much more to swap in an EJ series engine that will put out that much power anyways. Also try to remember youre wanting to make a lot of reliable power out of a 20 year old engine design. But as for your question of tuning the EA82, i believe WJM (not sure?) has done some good work with the EA82T. Edit: Dam you Brian! you beat me!