keltik

If its the twin turbo model - code 66 is a VERY common fault for the twin turbo system. Its a generic fault code that describes any problem with the system but is most often triggered by the crossover valve being oily/dirty.

Harro all! Its been a while. Im looking to change my transmissions final drive ratio from a 4.111 to a 3.9 or a 3.7 over the summer. Ive killed my front differential so the transmission has to come out sooner or later and i figured i might as well look into doing this swap at the same time. Has anyone done this? Ive seen a couple of kits advertised for converting USDM WRX's from 3.9 to 4.444 so its definately possible. Looks like i need to change the pinion shaft and front crown wheel. I know its a long shot but does anyone have any more information on this mod?

Figured i might as well update this a little bit. After 30,000miles and a couple years i still love it! The car is now sporting a manual transmission out of a GTB. It hits the speed limiter in 5th gear and sounds like insanity on wheels with the new exhaust system. Its still a fat boat at 1700kg but the new slotted brake rotors and calipers made a massive difference in stopping power. I can now get through 4/5 hard laps before fade sets in. Have been to a few track days and am attending as many autocross events as my bank account allows. Quite surprisingly im almost competitive Just need to sort out my shocks now. They have become rediculously loose! Still lurking here when possible. Great to see the USMB still going

holy zombie thread batman! Just ticked over to 90,000miles in the H6 Legacy

Holy zombie thread batman! Do it and dont look back. GPS beats clock any day

My wagon has the VTD box so thats why the rears start turning first....as its advertised as having a 60/40 split to the rear - i think this proves the sales documents correct. Sales stuff for the earlier transmissions state a 90/10 split in normal cruising which then builds to a 50/50 depending on throttle position etc. Thats all i know for sure - the rest is as you say pure specualtion from forums and hearsay Anyone wanna get an oscilloscope and prove some stuff for us?

Well after having my wagon on a AWD dyno i can tell you for 100% fact the rear wheels began turning before the fronts did and once the tester backed off the throttle the front wheels slowed down faster than the rears. In fact as he touched the brakes the front wheels slowly came to a stop while the rears were spinning much faster Ive also seen an older Forester on a AWD dyno and all wheels began rotating at once. I read in a service manual the TCU is supposed to hold a 50/50 torque split when the trans is in 1st gear to prevent wheelspin off the line.

They dont seem to get the torque bind issues nearly as often as i hear about USDM ones exploding. Most common issue with the JDM ones is crappy shifting caused by old fluid or a badly adjusted band. Dont often get major failures

Well the clutch packy thing.....you know what i mean....well you do now

Hey Ross, what kind of rims are you running? The stock JDM 5 spoke rims are prone to warping very easily. My only other idea is a broken lug nut? Or something inside the park brake hub. I cant remember how much clearance is between the rear caliper and rotor - but having a stone glued to the inside of the rotor makes a similar noise as it hits the caliper on each rotation. If you raise the wheel off the ground and spin it by hand do ya have any resistance?

Looks like the latest 4eat got rid of this problem with the VTD center diff setup... But yes from an engineering standpoint it would create some drag having the rear tires slightly larger. I thought the TCU was programmed to open the center diff if the rear wheels were spinning faster

Just for future reference heres the results. All wiring diagrams show only ONE speed reading going into the ECU. If this reading is not as the ECU expects - the check engine light will illuminate and the vehicle will behave differently. Cutting this wire will not immediately trigger a CEL. The ECU must determine the signal is bad by evaluating other parameters and triggers a error code at around 80kph. However running a D-Check diagnostic will show that the sensor is not working. Adding the speed cut controller (GReddy and Pivot models tested) will allow the ECU to read the vehicle speed accurately up to a preset cut off speed. I set mine at 170kph. After the cut-off speed, the controller takes over and continues to tell the ECU that the vehicles speed is constant at 170kph. No CEL is triggered and the AWD does not seem to be affected. A Scantool did not read any new or stored error codes after my test runs. The Legacy successfully hit 215kph (according to GPS) on the test run with no hesitation or issues. The documentation for the controller states that BH, BC, BG and BF Legacys were supported and i doubt GReddy would make that statement without some degree of testing. *Disclaimer: This controller is a JDM only item and is not intended for road use. Test runs were not held on a public road. Nippers statements about speed sensors and AWD are correct, If the TCU doesnt get all of its speed readings correct (3 different sensors on my car) it will behave very strange and cause nasty handling issues.

Im not saying your wrong mate but in all the documentation i can find it shows the ECU as only being connected to one speed sensor. And as the speed cut is activated by the ECU then its obvious that interrupting that one sensor is what i need to do. I may be wrong but im assuming the TCU will handle all of the AWD stuff and interrupting this sensor at the ECU end wont affect my AWD? The documentation for the controller also shows this for the EJ25 and EJ20 ECU and shows the pin to connect to, but it doesnt show the EZ30 ECU. Either way im willing to try it and see what happens under controlled conditions. If my idea doesnt work and sets off a million error codes then i can always remove the controller. On the other hand i do seem to remember there being error codes in the old ECU's for VSS1 and VSS2 failures.....

Hmm...looks like although there are 2 speed sensors hooked up to the tcu - the ecu only gets one wire telling it the vehicles speed. So if anyone has a pinout for the H6 ECU or knows how i can figure out which one is the speed sensor that would be great.

Thanks mate Much better than the diagrams i was attempting to use Failure or success ill post up the results tomorrow night

Cheers mate, Is there just one speed signal going into the ECU or still 2? Also does the wire to the ECU come from the TCU or the sensors themselves? Newest manual ive got is for a '95 and of course everything changed since then

Actually now that ya mention it a couple people in ClubSUB have made freqency divides that do exactly that. The only issue was the radiator fans stay on to a higher speed. Manufacturer claims this controller works with Legacys so ill give it a try when it arrives tomorrow. Just gotta get a wiring diagram

Thanks for the concern nipper. Have heard from a few other Legacy and WRX drivers that they spend some time on the speed limiters at this track as it was primarily used for V8 Supercar racing. Was even hitting the speed limiter on the Taupo track in June and thats a lot more curvy! The speed cut controller acts like a frequency clamp and over speeds of 170kph it simply sends the same signal to the ecu as at 170 no matter how fast the incoming signal. So below 170kph everything operates as normal. It has 2 inputs and outputs for sensors so it caters for vehicles with 2 speed sensors. Still cant find a FWD fuse anywhere. Seems even the twin turbo versions of the same year have the fuse but mine doesnt.

Nobody even wants to take a guess?

torque converter lockup working ok? Cant think of much else that would happen around that rpm Sounds like a loss of line pressure as soon as the trans opens whatever solenoid.....but im no expert

Hey guys, long time no post.. Im going to be fitting a speed cut controller to my VSS wires and would love a wiring diagram for the H6 ECU. If anyone can help me identify the VSS wires that would be great! Also i cant figure out how to get my Auto trans into FWD mode....doesnt seem to be a FWD fuse holder anywhere :-\ Finally i know you guys didnt get H6 Legacys before '03 but whats the approximate top speed of a H6 Outback? Our cars here are electronically limited to 185kph or about 115mph which is why im fitting the frequency modulator. I have a track day coming up at Pukekohe which has very long straights.

A bit of closure - i replaced my high beam bulbs with some philips OEM spec replacements and the situation has improved immensely!! MY headlights still arent quite where i want them but im getting closer to happiness. The previous japanese owner had installed some PIAA tinted blue bulbs, which had a very strange metallic coating on the bulb glass itself (much like the reflective coating on trendy sunglasses).

Hey mate. Seizing up the carrier bearing would be a bad move - that would do all sorts of funky things with the center diff. Your best option is to remove the tail section of the transmission and weld the diff properly. To be honest i havnt got a clue how to do the welding part but if your average bloke in new zealand can do it in his shed - it cant be that hard. Heres a guide on modifying the limited slip center diffs in the JDM transmissions. Im fairly sure yours will be very similar. http://clubsub.org.nz/forums/index.php?topic=22329.0

One motor i would seriously consider a swap for would be the rare EJ20 quad cam non-turbo with variable length intake runners and coil on plug ignition. They supposedly put out 145hp in stock form and with a nice exhaust and some minor mods to the airbox you can squeeze a reliable 155hp from them. Ive driven one coupled to an automatic box and it went amazingly well.....i can only imagine the fun you'd have with a manual. They also love to rev and make usefull power to 7000rpm....and dont mind winding all the way out to 7500. If i had an early sedan this would be in my top 3 engines to swap in....number one being a EJ20T...number 2 being a EG33

Any EJ20 motor up to 1999 Will bolt straight into your car. You will need to sort out the ECU as theres a lot of differences between them. Everything bolts straight into place with no fabrication needed - the hardest part is the wiring. A single turbo engine/transmission swap from any Subaru up to 1999 is a very do-able swap. After 1999 they changed the bell-housing bolt pattern. All JDM EJ20 engines are interference and most are DOHC as far as im aware.