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Everything posted by keltik
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If its been running a stand alone ECU setup...im thinking most of them dont run MAF sensors. Has anyone tried unhooking the MAF and running it then? On my current Legacy turbo build (havnt mentioned it to you guys yet ) after getting it back together, i tried starting with the MAF out of the airflow and it would idle but die as soon as ya rev it. Unplugged the car ran fine. So if someone botched up a stand alone ECU - theres a good chance they may have messed around with the MAF sensor wires as most stand alones ive seen just use a MAP sensor.
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I drive a 3.0D and i LOVE it. Awesome motor, plenty of torque and loves to be revved out. My gas mileage is pretty good and is a lot better than any turbo Subaru ive seen. From what i know the 3 liters are generally the high spec models with all the electric goodies so theyre sweet inside. Have also raced a 3.0R legacy (on a track) and there was no contest - he hauled rump roast and left me for dead.
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead guys but i do have a worthwhile contribution for any other uses wanting to tow. Have towed one 4EAT for 30miles at low speed with no noticeable effects. Towed another 4EAT, all 4 on the ground, for 250 miles at approx 60mph. Took a coffee break every hour and ran the engine for 5 min bursts every 30mins (to get some oil pumping around to cool things off). The transmission is dead.....very dead. Some clutch packs welded together and others grenaded themselves. 1st just made grinding noises, 2nd didnt do anything and reverse wouldnt even engage. Moral of the story is short distances at low speeds MAY be ok but your still wearing things out really fast. Long distances WILL break stuff. Luckily the car i broke was being towed home to have a 5 speed fitted so i didnt mind too much.
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Im thinking its an issue with the relay (maybe drawing too much power untill its heated up after the first couple blinks). The first thing i'd try would be swapping in a new one of thems. When the problem occurs - does everything electrical in the car get affected or just the dummy lights on the dash?
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My old EJ18 FWD wasnt too bad - certainly not the fastest car ive ever owned but it was adequate. Its mostly opinion. I would stick 'er in 3rd and sit around 6000rpm up long grades without worrying. Compared to the JDM EJ20 - it feels like a gutless pig when theres only a 200cc difference. 150hp and the last one i drove made good power right up to 7500rpm If you could retrofit the EJ20 heads onto the EJ18 block youd have a much better breathing motor as the EJ20 heads are Quad Cam and dual exhaust ports. Add in a 5speed FWD setup and say hello to decent MPG. Of course thats all a lot of work when the real answer to all of lifes problems is to jam a boxer diesel in there.
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Me too but my gas tab is condsiderably higher. Sounds like a starter problem to me. If the t-belt snapped it would probably make a funny cranking rhythm...unless it jumped some teeth and all cylinders happen to have one valve open. Easy test which i used on a car recently was to have an assistant crank the motor at full throttle while i hold my hand over the exhaust. VERY easy to tell if something isnt right (the Impreza i was checking out gave 3 puffs and one suck).
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Thought you guys might like to have a look, we got some great pictures at the ClubSub track meet on the weekend. Awesome day of fun on the Taupo A1GP was had by all. About 25 turned up for the mega-meet and about 15 stayed for the racing. Was great fun finding out what my H6 Legacy can do (it can keep up with a '97 Legacy twin turbo....just about). Heaps more pics available on the clubsub board but i think you need a login to get to that part. Had so much fun on the weekend ive decided to build a track dedicated car, so far ive got a 1990 Legacy EJ20T lined up and im probly gonna need some USMB style help with that one! Posted in the New Gen forum 'cos its mostly new gen cars but mods feel free to put it in the right place as i wasnt so sure.
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Brake Noise
keltik replied to jon38iowa's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
After sticking new performance pads in my Legacy ive noticed a similar scratching noise. Would be interesting to find out what it is. All the sliders and pins are greased nicely on mine and i know the brakes arent binding, its just weird how these new pads are much louder untill some pressure is applied compared to the OEM ones. -
Hey guys, Im heading to the ClubSUB track day and meet up on saturday and will be doing some hard laps around the Taupo race track in my Legacy. So far ive picked up some Bendix Ultimate pads (one step down from track only pads) for the front (2 pot calipers surprised me) and a liter of DOT5.1 brake fluid. Im going to be fitting the pads n stuff tomorrow night and needed to know a couple of things. Im still running stock brakes on the back - If the rears fade under heavy braking and the fronts are still biting - will i die? (im thinking it would create some funny handling) Im going to be flushing through the whole system with new fluid. Any tips? Should i grease up the sliders? Everythings clean but a bit dry. What kinda grease should i use if im doing it? Do i still need to use the anti-squeel shims? (new pads have a carbon fiber backing on them) Thanks in advance for any help. Edited to clean up some questions.