keltik

I visited the local engine rebuilder yesterday and i would just like to add what he told me to the discussion. The re-design on the gaskets had 2 factors in reducing HG failure. 1) The gasket was much thinner - thinner means less pressure on the weak point. 2) From what ive seen the newer gaskets look a bit reinforced around the cylinder edge. Theyre also made of a different multi-layered steel design that tolerates uneven surfaces better. I could be wrong but ive heard the newer EJ25 motors were simply fitted with the uprated gaskets rather than redesigned to remove the underlying cause.

My '02 does this on occasion after sitting out on the lawn all night or in the rain. She'll crank fine and splutter down at 300rpm for a second or 2 then wind up to normal idle. Doesnt happen all that often but it does irritate me lol. From what i can tell its just condensation in some electrical connections as the car is fine if its sat in the morning sun for a bit. I'd hang in there and see if it happens again. You might just get a code which will make the diagnoses a lot easier.

You know its us JDM folk you shoul really be envying :cool: We got the EJ20H ...oh and some dual range.

Our 2002 Merc Sprinter has a small pump to circulate coolant from the engine through the heater core once the motor has been shut down. It bypasses the radiator so you can get good heat for 10-20 mins and as it doesnt need to cool the motor - doesnt need a high flow rate and therefore doesnt have an issue with the engines pump not spinning. Very usefull if your getting gas or just making a short stop. It keeps the cab toasty warm. :-p Are you looking for this kinda feature with your pump or trying to replace the engines mechanical pump altogether? Edit: Now that i think about it, my dads old volvo had a similar feature to cool the turbo after shutdown (and the rad fans would cycle on for 5 mins after you remove the key).

Ok im curious.... Why would you?

Hey guys, This could be the most pointless thread ever, but im interested to see how many people we've got here in Aotearoa. Anyone who has a Subaru theyre proud of and thinks an end of summer meet sounds like a good idea - chime in. If i get 5 replies ill be happy lol. Not including Waimaks or xtWhakatane.

Cheers il give it a shot tomorrow.

What i mean is with my car being awd...im thinking both wheels may just turn in the same direction and rotate the driveshaft. Ive seen quite a few open diffs with enough drag in them to do this - doesnt take much.

Sorry to drag this a little off topic - but whats a definitive test for a rear LSD? Mine has no sticker on it and im curious to know what ive got.

If the new Imp DID look like that photoshop - we would all take the piss for it looking like a 350Z. Personally im still a fan of the shape. Once you get over the "I CANT BELIEVE ITS NOT BUTTER!!...i mean mazda" feeling....its not such a bad car. Not much point sticking a H6 in it tho - the STI model has enough kick to kill. Really glad to hear your enjoying it. Just curious tho - what this paint chipping issue?

I think this issue is illustrated brilliantly on my 2 stroke dirt bike. It vibrates a heckuva lot more in gear compared to in neutral. The crappy 2 stroke idle isnt a problem on its own but when you have that lumpy idle transmitted through the gearbox and chain - the bike shakes (the clutch drags a wee bit - analogous to a torque converter). The wheels arent moving - the gears in the box arent moving much and the chain isnt going anywhere but the bike vibrates more. I havnt had a bad axle in a car cause this, but seeing it happen on my bike has made me much more aware of the possibility of it occuring. Sorry for going off on a tangent here but it seemed quite related lol.

Secks on wheels there Brian! I Love it!

Thats all very well untill it packs up 100miles from home when its snowing, with the kids in the back of the car.....on the way to your wifes anniversary dinner. Or something along those lines. And it may take 15 mins to change the alt but it takes twice as long to explain to the missus shes pushing the car because you were too cheap to buy the right part (experience talking).

AAAAAaaAAAARGH!! But its not a bloody idle problem!!!!! This blokes talking about feeling abnormal vibrations in his steering wheel AT IDLE. And We're saying this vibration could be transmitted to the steering control rods through a craply made axle. It MIGHT be unlikely, but its even less likely that replacing the bad axle magically cured whatever unrelated problem caused this vibration. Edit: Looks like beasty squeezed in a reply before me there. But YES! The axle is NOT vibrating. The MOTOR is. And we believe it is likely the axle was TRANSMITTING this vibration to the body at idle. Apologies for sounding like an rump roast but this has gone on too long.

AND!!! You could do your own EXTREME version of "Will It Blend"

Well if you want to do something boring, cheap and realistic with it - let it rust in the back yard. Personally im gonna build that jet boat one day!

Well i mean really a blender is just an upside down lawnmower.... Anyways did you know with some #8 fencing wire, gorrilla glue, an old battered dinghy off ebay and some miscellaneous subaru parts (GL seat, steering wheel, tacho and handbrake) you could make a jetboat to be proud of! I reckon $200 and a case of beer should see it built to a decent standard. Were not talking really expensive here...well.....im not

I care! Do you have any idea of the implications of having a secondary butyl group!?!. ......i dont...but its still important its tertiary

Lifetime warranties here in NZ are valid for the life of the part. So as long as it lasts a reasonable amount of time and fulfills the consumer gaurantees act - thats all you get. These AutoZone lifetime warranties sound pretty cool to me but its gotta be a pain in the rump roast replacing your crap alternator/axle/starter every six months instead of having it on there good for 5 years.

I bought a vortex and this forum was like the only one in existence that could help me.....2 years later im still beyond help. I like the USMB, we dont spend hours gabbing about wastegates and mega-boosts, we dont take our car to the dealer to get a super downforce wing bolted on. Hell, half of us wouldnt know a quartermile if it jumped up and screamed "BOO". Its all about real world driving and doing it for yourself. Theres no ads, no annoying hidden links and very few people with more money than sense. Unlike another forum im on, people here know stuff. Theyve been there, done that and snapped an axle doing it, and unlike xt6 or legacycentral (which are brilliant) theres such a big user base - you usually get an answer the same day as the question. All i wanna know is when were gonna have the New Zealand Subaru meet? (WCSS9 makes me jealous )

Just got an email back from Subaru New Zealand: Ethanol suitability for SubarusMost Subarus purchased new in New Zealand since 1990 are capable of running on the ethanol blended fuel now being introduced to the local market. However any Japanese domestic specification models which have been imported here second hand (i.e.). second hand Japanese imports - should not be run on the ethanol blended fuel. These cars are only suitable for 3 percent blended fuels. The fuel being sold in New Zealand has a 10 percent ethanol blend. The 10 percent ethanol blended fuel could cause damage to the fuel line, fuel injector sealing, fuel pump or fuel regulator of these second hand Japanese imports. The fumes from the blended fuel after combustion can also have a harmful effect on the catalytic converter, the exhaust gas regulator and the muffler. Those Subarus which can use the 10 percent ethanol blended fuel have a 17 digit VIN number beginning with either JF1 or JF2. The VIN number can be found at the bottom of the central door pillar on the passenger’s side of the car or in the engine bay. The second hand Japanese imports which should not use the ethanol blended fuel have VIN numbers starting with 7A8. (Mine starts with 7A8) ................................... New Zealand new STI models and Blitzen/RSK/GT models were also deemed unsuitable for the blended fuel. Anybody have any opinions on this?

What happened to the good ol' days when the rev limiter was the strength of the valve springs? Or a vague suggestion of the time to change gear, instead of a concrete demand to shift.

I was referring to the brand of "cool" that makes you wear baseball caps backwards and put spinners on japanese cars. ....its ok though! I drive an auto too. No idea on how to get those 360's going tho - tight doughnuts ive mastered, but spinning on the spot is beyond me Edit: Just had a thought - which vid are we talking about? Im referring to the black WRX lol.

Hey guys, Gull Fuels has started selling "Force10" from their gas stations here in NZ. Its really just E10 with a clever name and lots of tv advertising. My Legacy pings on 91RON but runs beautifully on 98RON, up untill now it has only been available for stupid money from BP (About $110NZD to fill 'er up). This gull Force10 stuff is a fair bit cheaper however, and has a 98RON rating. What i need to know is: 1) Can i run E10 in my JDM Legacy with a n/a EZ30? 2) Ive put 2 tanks of force10 through already - and the car runs fine but i dont want my fuel pressure regulator desolving when im not looking. What damage do Ethanol mix fuels supposedly do? Subaru New Zealand says that NZ new cars are fine to use it but JDM models and any EJ25 motors, or vehicles older than '96 should not. Gull fuels dont really know anything and say "Some Legacy models may run the fuels - others should not, contact your local mechanic". The local mechanic (Andy) says "Aint got a clue bro, i'd go search the innanets".

Ligh weight 2 part epoxy resin. I've used it to fix everything from blistered plywood to the headliner in my old Opel. No air needed, cheap to buy and insanely way over-the-top strong.