84gl

mine Had the same pen striping as yours but with the brat taga And it was the same color too but mine is an 1982

I'll try to find some old pics before I started on the body work and scraped off all the vinyl brat stripes that had the sport logo cut in them But if you ask me I think the sport package was seats with head rests a center arm rest and a sticker Because mine not having fun tops And the others they had being the same I think the ranch ordered GL brats without the ttops for some reason and the sport logo was added at the dealer along with the push and roll bars

My Brat came From Four Corners Ranch In AZ where they had bought 14 brats for hunting use in the fall 1981 (or that was the story I got in 2001 when I bought mine And my dad got his off ebay When they sold them all and replaced them with jeeps) they were all special ordered the same from a dealer in AZ. they were all solid top had roll bars and push bars (the type that just bolted to the frount bumper) they were also white with blue brat stripes and said sport on the stripe on the side of the bed and the were badged as GLs with full gauge clusters and 4spd s/r trannys, with carter weber carbs and center lamps I've ask similar questions here in the past actually a very long time a go in 2001 when I went by 84turbowagon but nobody had heard of a sport brat and I asked again a couple months ago about a soild top 82 GL brat being rare or odd when I posted pics of my Brat since after nine years of work its almost ready for paint (lots of dents but on rust) Oh I still have the widow stickers and it just made it to 18k When I bought it 7k is all it had on it and the engine was shot both head gaskets were blown and was over heated to the point the one of the rod bearings had spun and the sleeves had turned in the block where the wrist pins could not be removed

its an 82 brat then well the lamp in the grille is called the center lamp or passing lamp and is for (cough,cough) off road use only the switch is a push pull type and is below the steering wheel on the left side just below the head light switch the topper hold downs are j bolt that hook to the bed tie down handles you can use just about any j bolt as long as its a 1/4 inch or smaller and about 6 inches long the universal battery j bolts that napa sells work great if they are threaded most of the way down

bolts right on the only things to worry about are you may have to grind down a high spot in the middle of your block and bend a metal line that goes to the heater core and depending on your alt bracket it may have to be ground as well

the runners are bigger and it makes for a cleaner install with a weber than the ea 81 intake does

Intake with all bits attached disty Wiring harness from a spfi ea82 car along with ecu and y pipe and air mass meter for starters

It was dynoed at ride revalution in Johnson City TN on their free dyno days as for what brand dyno I don't reminber but it was the hydro type Its been almost two years. now on the intake I port matched the intake and coolant ports with a die grinder and trial and error with a fiber optic camera at work the valves were also trial and error now the pistons were a have to case Because every ea82 I torn down at the junkyards had something wrong with them broke lands, creaks so I took two to work and made a set on the mazka quick turn 50 and vc160 mill I made them out of 6060 alum. to stock specs.

And sorry for getting off topic I am running 195/65/14s (which are 25s) on pug wheels and it didn't seem to change the gearing or climbing ability much at all

I did get my brat dynoed 3 times in the past 5 years once bone stock 5years ago as a base line it had 67hp at the front wheels then when it had 29k on it which is about 73-75 at the flywheel then I had it dyno again after a spfi swap with the heads shaved and ported the intake did have too have the holes opened up a bit and it was ported out the injector was change out for one that flows better the throttle body was bored out and a new throttle flip was made. at that time it made 86 hp at the front wheels.which is about 91-95 at the flywheel. its now on round three which is a delta torque cam with my verison of the spfi pistons I made at work the heads chambers welded up 1.98 & 1.94 valves I finish this a year ago and redyno it now it has 101 hp at the front wheels which is about 109-113 at the flywheel and if you want them I still have the dyno print outs I would just have to scan them to post them But I see no need Its not a hot rod is a brat so thats where I got my numbers but every engine runs different some are weaker and some are stronger in stock form and you may have to run smog stuff which kills some power on my brat there is no smog stuff left (no egr or cats) and I have 2in duel exhaust

Now you can do some things to your ea81 to help it out like putting a weber on it and upgading to a ea82 carb intake to gain some hp&tq or spfi if your good at wiring which gives you around 90hp in stock form (with a soild lifter small valve ea 81) with better gas mileage and it your feelin froggy pull the heads and port the crap out of them and do a valve job you can go up a little with valve size and deck the heads .020 or .030 doing all this and not spilting the case you might get around 105hp max but its alot cheaper than an ej swap and the car is down for less time and this is without changing the cam or pistons and petty much rebuilting the motor

Have a Machine shop make them all it would take is one six inch peice of bar stock (mild aka 8620,7230 or alum.) bore it to the id of the center of the hub and drill and contersink the 4x140 pattern on the rings you have made (same as making a pipe flange) then drill the bolt pattern of the wheel studs whatever you want it to be 5x100,4x100,chevy 6 lug any pattern that will fit inside the 6 inch od

I replaced the compresser on the one in our farm shop a year ago with the twin cly. job harbor fright sells works great only cost me $89 bucks too 12.5 cfm @ 125psi

The 4spd d/r is geared than the 5spds I don't see how changing out is going to help anything on a street car that only gets put in 4wd when it snows the gear ratios for the 4spd d/r are 1st 3.636 2sd 1.950 3th 1.193 4th 0.769 3.90 final with a 1.462 low range And the 5spds 1st 3.636 2sd 1.950 3th 1.344 4th 0.971 5th 0.780 3.90 final and a 1.53 low range this is for the non turbo trans and goes for both duel and single range trannys the turbos have a 3.70 final but a 5th gear .980 or so i think you want be gaining gas mileage from a 5spd swap But you will get a closer ratio trans which is better for take off hills offroading etc.

I went and looked at that car on monday After work (I Work In bluff city) And Its not even white its light blue and had the crap beet out of it I said I would haul it off for parts if he would let me have it for 300-400 bucks but I got laughed it He thinks that since its just got 70k on it that It would sell for even more than hes asking even with the rust

No Its too small you will almost be hitting the rotor or will be hitting it if you are going to redrill the hubs go chevy 6 lug any 6 lug truck wheel will fit then or you can find a xt6 and change every thing over to 5 lug but it costs alot more and if you have deep pockets think there is a 5 lug con. that can be bought right here on the board.

A Good Stock EA81 With spfi should get you around 95-100 hp right now you have 50-65hp depening on the wear or abuse on your engine. so it is Petty good up grade for the money ea81s are cheap right at the junk yards it bolts in and spfi is easy to wire up and is bomb proof just like the ea81 or 71 that in the car

It was a real pain but finally gave in and i used the stock lines

on upgrading the booster you will have to find one that will fit it bolts to the pedal pod or is the mounting point of the pedal pod that said my guess would and ea82t booster if it mounts the same and the brake bais is the same and works just fine but our hatch doesn't have rear disks yet

I have a 99 outback master cly. on my hatch and its bolted to the stock brake booster its a great mod the pedal is as soild as rock stock ea81 masters are 3/4 bore the ea82 is 13/16 legacy is 1 1/4 and outback is 1 3/4 or at least the one I have is 99 outback h6 i hope this helps they all bolt to the booster but I had to bend the lines a little bit

thanks GD I think I will try to get this thing to run with the stock ecm first maybe megasquirt later on for now pics and putting this thing togather

well I've never owned a 89-94 legacy or the 95-99 legacy or outback you might be right about them but I still have every part I'll need to build this engine if I was to ej it I would have to get a parts car for the harness,engine and make an adapter plate weld up and redrill a flywheel. Thats more work, time, mods and money than I want to spend. besides finding a good low mile 89-96 ej22 is almost impossable down here for less than $1500 People crushed everything they could get there hands two years ago when metal was high there is almost on cars older than 97 around here. heck I ran one guy off the farm for trying to buy or still my junk I had to move them out of sight

SPFI is capable of 16 more HP than a stock EA81 is rated for and there's likely a little bit of overhead on top of that. Why go to the added complexity and use of rare parts in order to gain basically nothing?Quote GD the car is already mpfi on wiring needed less work going to have too build a motor anyway My Brats already spfi would like to try something differant for a change