montana105

That is pretty impressive on the Taurus.I had an 89 Wagon that was great on most everything but the pesky 3.8 L head gasket issue.Mine was retired at 185000 miles,I did 3 head gaskets on that piece during that time.It actually died with a bad tranny which I figured was a more prevalent issue with the Fords of that time but mine was original. John

as those of us up here in Montana know temperatures can go to the extreme both ways but we worry more about winter.I always use the 50/50 mix in my cars,and when I know it's gonna be real cold (below -15 F) I always point my car away from the wind when parking it,have never ever had a problem with freezing much less a starting problem,doesn't hurt that i park inside at night but the car sits outside in the elements all day and has been to Alaska for 2 months without any protection and never failed me,good battery helps alot. John

Hey Nipper-if you're in the Kalispell,Mt region give me a nudge,I'll buy you a beer or four. John

Having done a few thousand brake jobs in my former life as a mechanic(automotive technician) I strongly recomend OE parts for quality and sure foot driving.Thinking about the CO2 question I'd be wary of that as cold gases will affect rubber parts also. As far as replacing rotors for a brake job,they need to be measured-deep grooves are very bad especially on Subes as the rotors are fairly thin to begin with considering the job they perform but they are turnable if in somewhat decent shape,basically if you can feel it up front get new rotors and spend the money for good ones.All that shaking when applying brakes also affects other components namely bearings. Just my 2 cents from experience-John

Dang it John-you beat me to the punch I was just gonna mention the same things,also could it be a bad tire(seperated) or miss matched sizes? John

I would wait for some advice from the board here before tearing into your engine,not to say you don't have the capability,but there are things to look for before tearing an engine down,specifically a compression test on all cylinders,and as mentioned in previous posts don't count out your coil pack,you may have a cylinder not firing properly or a spark plug not set right causing oil blow by so many things to check before going the engine route. By the way how many miles on the engine? John

Just a thought! Could this be a burnt valve? Any exhaust leaks?

Ok-I went on a 500 miler today and my sound happens at different RPM's,but it is definitely throttle related cause as soon as I hear it I can let off the throttle and it disappears,it seems to happen more when just maintaining speed,goes away releasing the throttle and stepping on it and doesn't do it at all on hills.Didn't think of it till just now but should have tried the cruise control. I know that my air box screws don't all tighten fully,got to figure that out this weekend,will let you know. John

Texan and Nipper,as far as i can tell the air box is secure as much as possible,all four screws are secure,no cracks in the air tube,and all vacuum tubes are new. As my mechanic says it must be in the air flies,a little bit of something built up that needs to be removed.I honestly have no time to do this until this weekend,but my plan is to clean the flies and secure the air tube more tightly around the base to eliminate any possibiltity of sucking sound as that is a good description of the sound I get. John

Mine is definitely throttle related,as soon as the whistle starts I can let off the pedal even the slightest bit without affecting the speed of the car and the sound goes away, same the other way around, if i step on the pedal the sound goes away.Not sure if this is the sound though the original poster described. John

Damien-did you hear any noises yourself? You might have actually found a seller who is honest and relayed what they heard from a dishonest prospective buyer who may know distinctive sounds of Subarus and inflated it to try and get a better price. How much does the seller want for the car,and does he have receipts for repairs and tuneups? If the car is offered for between 1000.00 and 1500.00 I wouldn't worry about getting ripped off,you can easily get alot of mileage out of the car and if it does go to crap on you,you could easily scrap the car for parts or swap in another engine.Just my .02-John

Would this be a security related issue? My sister had a HyundaiPOS that tripped something if radio was removed and one didn't have the proper password when reinstalling? John

Hi everyone-just transplanted a 92 Ej22 into my 93 Legacy wagon,everything went smoothly,engine started right up runs smooth as hell,belched some smoke at first,not to worried about that as engine sat for a year and after everything checked out with no leaks and such drove it around easily for 20 miles,smoke cleared up.Parked it overnight with a large piece of cardboard underneath,today no drips of anything,no start up smoke,no smoke at all.Took the kids to B.K.,about 5 miles round trip,on the way back saw CEL pop on for about 5 seconds then it went out.I pulled over just to verify things,oil level good,coolant level unchanged in overflow tank,no leaks,appeased my worries and tok the car on a 100 mile jaunt,no CEL at all. Any ideas what would pop the CEL so briefly? Car did sit for 3 months with no battery until Thursday when i put battery on charger,no battery cables hooked up-just charger.Think car is just relearning itself.The low mileage engine is so nice,other then the whistling noise that didn't go away between engines,for only 500.00 I feel really good about a 72000 mile 2.2.We replaced the timing belt as we had no history on P.O.,and replaced clutch as mine was pretty well used,turned the flywheel.Everything is going great,just that one CEL. Again-any ideas? Thanks John

My 93 makes the same noise but it does it at certain speeds in all gears,a mechanic thought it might be air whistling through the intake or by the butterflies as it instantly disappears if you let off the gas even minutely. Think I'll pull the intake hose off and clean it all up. Just swapped in a complete 92 Ej22, got it running Thursday and it is making the same exact noise. What do you think? John

Ed or anyone-will the 5 bolt Subaru wheel fit any other car? Not that I have any leads,but can keep my eye out for something different. Hope you find them or someone here helps you find the SOB. John

I'm not sure about our Northern neighbors judicial system but I would wait before changing any fluids, and badger the shop who did the repairs,the whole situation sounds like a fleece job to me the way you describe it. John

Gary-up here the Subies are really popular,there are 200000 mile engines going for 600.00 with no guarantee,and you don't know what you're getting with it as far as compression etc... My mechanic and I bought the engine mentioned as he was quite impressed with it's running condition after sitting for a year and would've kept it for himself if I hadn't traded him my 79 Ford in exchange for the engine and install plus a new clutch,and whatever else I felt was necessary,that's why I asked about the timimg belt and such. Appreciate your response. John

Hey everyone,you've probably seen me bouncing around in the classifieds looking for an engine for my 93 Legacy wagon 2.2 AWD 5 speed. Well I finally found one that just came into a local junk yard. 92 Legacy Wagon w/2.2 auto,74000 miles. Been sitting for a year but started up fine and everything was smooth and quiet per my own mechanic. Junk yard didn't want to seperate w/engine as car is in fair shape but they did for 500.00. Sound like a good deal? Any opinions on what I should do when we transplant this engine? Is it worthwhile to do timing belt now while engine is out? There was a receipt in glove box for timing belt replacement at 65000 but it lists car as a 94. There are no apparent fluid leaks. Appreciate your comments. Thanks-John

I have to go with Nipper here only because my other two cars have exhibited the same symptons only happening at highway speeds especially with A/C on and fully loaded especially on hot days when the roads are baking,my taurus would actually shut down when the fuel in the tank got so hot the veins in the fuel pump would expand and it couldn't supply the fuel needed,where as my 93 Legacy wagon with somewhat higher clearance to the fuel tank went longer before the fuel pump would cut out,but anyways sounds like a pump problem to me just my .02. John

Hi Dale welcome to the site. Need a little more description of the noise. Subies are known for metal ratteling noises as you described,usually a heat shield of some sort got bent and is rattling against exhaust but again a more descriptive explanation would help. John

Can't check the ingredients now but alot of what everyone is talking about can be had with GM top end cleaner,it's not a fix all but did wonders for my 79 Ford truck.Alot of the usage descriptions sound the same,my truck blew smoke like crazy as I sprayed this down my carb but it sure cleaned the insides out,and in the long run pinpointed a lifter problem. can be used through any intake and will clean injector ends somewhat. Be sure to change your oil after a 100 miles or so. John

Hey everyone-well I took the big step and dropped my 327 Chevy into the basket case,what a PINTA. actually just kidding.The engine I was looking to buy got bought before I could get there so am searching again for another. Anybody with something around 500.00 in the N.W.? Thanks-John

I'll add my 2 c's here real quick.Having worked for another dealership in the past you have to figure in the cost of wear items and diagnostics to determine warranty issues which are typically much higher in the first few years.Believe me what you think is covered under warranty and what the manufacture thinks can be way off.It's not the dealers fault,they have to follow guidelines so they'll get paid also,but on a brand new car where parts may not be available it makes for very stressful times. Just thoughts from an old Chrysler mechanic working beside Sube mechanics,Subaru is alot more lenient and last alot longer with more abuse. John

Good to meet you- didn't mean to sound like I was arguing,just a bit angry that this supposed de-icer that's non corrosive is corrosive to my truck. John

I appreciate the response and the honesty. The PCV was changed about 4 months ago with a Subaru original,when I do get the car running I can take the PCV hose off and feel plenty of suction through the valve. I'm not sure on the timing belt jumping, and didn't have it changed because the car has been burning so much oil since this all came about. I do not have a vacuum gauge,so I can't diagnose that spectrum. I do have a compression gauge so maybe I'll check compression and throw those figures at you. I'm leaning towards buying a hopefully low mileage used engine and putting it in and then maybe taking this one apart to learn about Subaru engines. Does 675.00 for approx 90,000 miles sound decent? Put a new timing belt,water pump,idlers,the whole shebang,should be good for awhile, actually wonder if the car is worth putting another 1000.00 into it? Well I'm rambling- I'm just honestly thinking that the engine is shot,it fills the neighborhood with smoke for the first ten minutes,and then it just trickles out. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks-John