montana105

Where is the new block from? I would go with what they say in order to maintain your warranty,if no warranty is lingering go with the next heat range up,you'll love it

I can't say with any authority here but I don't know that the knock sensor has anything to do with the O2 sensor but each on their own can cause driveability problems as can a fuel filter.I understand that if the O2 sensor is bad it could throw a lean situation to the injectors which could cause knock which of course would trigger the knock sensor which would throw the ECM into panic mode,but low fuel pressure could trigger both of these also in tandem.

How long since new fuel filter?

Nova- is the veggie oil you're mentioning reclaimed oil from restaurants? I like the recycling element of that especially since a person can do it at home further reducing the costs.

Legacy, not to mention the much higher costs of milk and beef.For me to support corn based ethanol I would need to see the price per gallon at around a buck just to make up for the 5.00 per gallon of milk and 4.89 per pound of burger I spend so my kids can eat. Like was mentioned earlier,the amount of dino fuel needed to produce and transport ethanol does not offset the benefits of running a cleaner fuel in our car,it may lessen our dependence on OPEC but not much.

I'm hoping this will help some people who are considering any kind of tranny service,whether it be at the dealer,a tranny shop(never go there) or in your own garage.there is no problem flushing an auto tranny whether it be with a machine or just draining the fluid yourself.The problems begin when you start using detergents.These detergents clean your tranny very well but you don't want that unless you're ready to start leaving your credit card open to whoever is doing the work.You will be replacing your tranny alot sooner than if you'd just changed the fluid.All that grime that builds up on on the innards inside the tranny needs to stay there,it compensates for natural wear,you clean it out and all of the sudden you've got a losse tranny.All of the additives in the world won't help your cause,just flash your card again and get a new/used tranny. Hope this helps-in the interest of keeping this short I haven't gotten technical.

Straight anti freeze will also freeze quicker then 50/50 mix

Staying within the limits of the vehicle is always your best course,this also means loading trailer properly(tongue weight %) and securely,this is just common sense with all towing.I would not exceed the limits in your OM,if you do happen to loose control or cause an accident you can be held liable for damages if it's found you exceeded the manu's limits. As I've stated about this in the past,I used to tow a 2 pod water ski trailer,the car easily pulled it,but the braking and clutching was very nerve wracking,and I keep my vehicles well maintained,I used to drive semi so I'm comfortable saying I know how to tow and drive, I just don't feel comfortable saying that a Legacy or Impreza will tow some things just because they have trailer brakes,I don't think these cars were built for that kind of hauling even if the trailer brakes take the load off the vehicle brakes. i probably haven't explained myself very well,and not to be rude as I don't know you,I just don't feel people have any idea today what towing is about,to explain myself I hope-living in a somewhat well known vacation destination I see so many idiots with Tahoes and Yukons pulling 20-30foot travel trailers hauling rump roast at 75 to 85 mph,passing me who's doing 75 in my car in a 75 mph zone.this is not safe towing and neither the vehicle nor the trailer were designed for this. Oh sorry bout the rant. John

Guess the question is how long are you anticipating no oil cap? My wife drove a 1000 miles without one,no harm no foul so far,luckily the cap was still sitting on the rad support right where she left it. I'd be more inclined to rubber band an aluminum made oil cap on with a couple of holes punched through if gonna wait between pay checks and stop and go,or watch one of them other movies where the subjects get the parts they need under gun and bruisers.

Maybe you could list what you're doing and ask one of the many members if they've tried it themselves.

In hindsight I can't pinpoint this for you,but my 93 Wagon had the same problem last winter,it was in need of brakes and a new hand brake lever due to the mother in law driving the car( she managed to break the push button on the e-brake lever and tried to cover it up by throwing all the internals away,namely the spring) so I did all four corners,put all new fluid in and replaced the e-brake contraption.The dang light went out and haven't seen it in a year.This leaves two scenarios.The brake pads weren't exactly due for replacing,quite a bit of service left actually,and the fluid looked pretty good with only 5 years on it,which to me rules out the pads and water in the fluid.My thinking is the e-brake lever and the spring,but wouldn't rule out the fluid and linings because wierder things have been known to happen.

God-that rust just gets every where doesn't it,is this due to road salting? Sorry to interject on this thread!!!

This is a little baffling. You said you have two sets of tires and in the past both sets have produced shimmy,yet you are able to replace the front right with one of the tires that also showed shimmy. I'm thinking this is more suspension or steering related possibly even a brake rotor. Keep us informed of your results.

Well don't know if it pertains to your car but have seen many Subarus where you have to bleed the air out in a certain way,namely getting the front end up in the air and basically burping the system. I wouldn't discount what your buddy is telling you,it can be a royal pain in the butt,but at the same time just raising the front end off the ground may burp your baby.We can go more indept if needed.

Don't discount the hill hugger as suggested, if you live in hilly country you'll love it,if you like burning your clutch to start a hill you'll hate it.Care to challenge?

For me the obvious question would be-are you seeing any tell tale signs of leaking on the garage floor or anywhere on the under carriage of the car. There are some very good points through out this thread and one that caught my attention the most is that if you have to add fluid every 600 miles,then there has to be a leak somewhere brake pads do not wear that rapidly-but I would definitely look for drip spots on the floor and around all cylinders. Brake fluid doesn't magically disappear,even getting sucked into a booster would create signs.

I tend to agree with gary here.That car may fetch that much up here in snowy mtn area with ski areas but I'd venture to say the demand isn't that high in Kansas.Maybe ask if that is the balance on a loan they have on it. Some of these second chance credit places really stick it to people with bad credit and while looking to get out from under it they ask for what they owe which they have no option with as the second chance place won't release the title,hence the high price. I was looking for a second subie for the wife and saw one on a second chance lot,I wasn't interested in the in house financing as my banker treats me well,but out of curiousity I had them draw up the figures. This was a 1999 Outback,decked out,and the price on the sticker was 11000.00,after drawing up the paperwork I see the selling price as 16900.00 with 2000.00 down which turned into about 400.00 for 36 months.Of course the place charges "no interest". No I had no intention of buying the car as I felt even his cash price was to high,and i would caution anyone thinking of this option. Sorry I rambled. I think the price is to high,see if you can get it for 4500.00 or lower

I used to tow two jet skis on trailer with my 93 Leg wagon.I'll be honest and say it did it power wise no problem other than pulling long hills or grades.I'll also be honest and say going down those same hills and grades was down right dumb, I luckily never lost control but there were times I was very uncomfortable. I took the hitch off just so i couldn't tow anything anymore. I wouldn't recommend it

Well lets start with the basics.Is the noise happening exactly when you put it in gear or after you put it in gear and stomp the gas? Is it a shifter noise or definite body flex,and please describe the noise more,this could be axles, tranny or even something caught in the shifter.

Was this done for general maintenance or did you have a drivability concern before hand? Also was the CEL on before the seafoam?

I'm no expert on Subies much less any of the new cars,and I happened to see a program of the same nature mentioned before,and they mentioned that alot of the problem headgaskets are caused by aluminium meeting cast iron,they have different heat dissipation so it causes the heads to move which in turn breaks the head gasket.I can relate to this as i owned a taurus wagon with over 200000 miles bought brand new, and replaced head gaskets 3 times,2 times under warranty,the 3rd time i did it myself,ultimately the tranny gave out and I'd had enough,gave the car to a guy who had a bad engine and it's still running today with no additional head problems.

Speer,that is kind of where i was going but wanted to rule out mounts first. Not sure if the same holds true but on older vehicles and those with forward mount engines you could put the vehicle in gear and while holding the brake slowly accelerate,have an assistant look at engine and see if it raises say more than an inch,while doing this you may even hear the clunk.as Nipper said i would suspect the tranny mount,but yes it could be an axle and that is something to look at just to be complete.

Welcome.In the old days this was a sure sign of one of the engine or tranny mounts being bad. do you hear the clunk at any other time,such as turning corners or is your car hopping around corners.

Yeah,we bought the store in January. I figured your driveway had something to with AWD.

LGT,something else to check with the brakes is the emergency brake system. A way to check this is to get rolling and then pull sharply on the e-brake,if the sound disappears you need to look to see if the e-brake system is operating correctly,more help is around here if needed on this forum. I will be honest and say that having worked in dealerships and having customers requesting aftermarket fuel pumps be installed they have been nothing but problematic,I have only had success with true OEM fuel pumps,this is especially true with intank pumps and doesn't matter if it's Ford,GM,Chrysler,or Subaru.I believe it's the vein tolerances on aftermarket pumps that cause the problems you are experiencing,noisiness.They also don't typically last as long as OE,whereas I could get over 100000 miles on a Taurus fuel pump a pump from Napa would only go 1/2 that at quite the price. The price difference even if you're broke isn't enough to justify the inferior pump,it's a pain to drop a tank and change the pump.If you can find out if an aftermarket pump was installed resign yourself for now to a noisy pump,you may check to make sure the tank straps were tightened up fully and not vibrating.Wish you luck