montana105

okay-little update.Been out in the garage trying everything,heated the snot out of that nut (axle) put the socket with a shorty extension on with a stout cheater bar,tried putting all my weight into it nothing,so lined everything up,and stood on that puppy withthe rest of my weight and snapped that stubby extension right in half.So any other ideas? I don't have a way to cut the nut off other then to drill a series of holes through it which isn't a problem as the new axle comes with a new nut,but is this worth the time or should I buy a cut off tool of some sort( don't think an angle grinder will fit into the space the nut fits). Thanks again- John

This is not related to Subies per se,but it is auto related. I'm trying to replace my cv axles on my 96 Jeep Grand,the damn axle nut holding the rotors on will not budge. Tried my impact first,nothing. cheater bar on socket wrench standing on it just lifts the front end off the stand.Any ideas on what else to try? We used to use a torch on stubborn ball joints to heat them then smack with a hammer,usually worked,how about this trick here?. Have already sprayed a crap load of blaster on and around the nut yesterday and today,no go, but am worried if I apply a torch it will spark a bonfire? Need to get this done ASAP and hope you can help me out. Thanks- John

Is this the one that sits on top of the spare tire yet under the carpet? If so, my 93 Wagon has one so there should be one out there somewhere.

As Nipper said plus don't let it go so long it destroys your flexplate/flywheel

I got double the fun off a hitch I bought from the j/y $5.00. A class 3 receiver off a 1976 Ford P/U. Had it cut down to fit the frame of my 1971 Comet 50.00, they even drilled and bolted it up for me. When I sold the Comet I pulled the hitch,went back to the same shop and they cut and installed the same hitch on my 93 Legacy for another 50.00. I have 105.00 invested in a hitch,currently uninstalled that I used to pull 2 jet skis and the 2 place trailer. Never worried about weight as I also used the car to pull my 16' Bayliner with 50 HP outboard. The car wasn't quick and struggled on any kind of hill,but I did manage 180,000 miles on the engine before it puked. The car had no problem with pulling the weight,just have to load it right so you don't have so much tongue weight,never a problem with the jet skis. John

we plowed a cow elk when i was about 14 in a 68 impala,it ripped the roof off our car,almost took my sister with it,the semi behind us ended any hope of steak or jerky,and it was a cold trip the rest of the way to Helena.

Can you describe the smell of the exhaust, does it smell gassy or like oil? The blue tinge does indicate oil burnage but I've noticed a slight tinge with my car at start up when cold and can not find any leaks or usage problems between oil changes. I'm wondering if the car is running rich on colder mornings in response to the computer ( like the old chokes of the past) to assist in cold startup? In warm weather I get no smells or tinges. John

Powderhound- it's been a good year so far up on Big mtn,I think they are approaching 120 inches so far with a heck of alot more forecasted this weekend and this next week. as Smitty said in the valleys it's been hit and miss with lots of ice as evidenced by his driveway. Smitty- I asked our stoggie rep to replace all of my cigars so I should be getting all new ones in the next couple of weeks,sorry about that. John

I wouldn't hesitate if the rest of the car is in good shape,beats a car payment any day of the week. John

93 Legacy Wagon,182000 miles put a used engine in it,now up to 190000 miles. Great cars to sink money into if body is in good shape. john

wonder if you have a warped rotor or sticking caliper? Has any work been done recently with steering system where air might have gotten in system? John

Ok thanks for the insight.

After re-reading your original post I agree that you are due some finacial help from whoever told you they'd do you right,but can you prove it? If not,so be it chalk it up to experience. I had a 1989 Ford Taurus with a known 3.8 head gasket issue, i made it to 200,000 miles with 3 HG changes,was just hanging on till the car fell apart,tranny finally crapped and I bought my 93 Legacy L wagon.The point is that Ford knew it had a problem and did nothing to correct the problem or help out owners! would it stop me from buying another Ford? No, having been around all makes of cars since I was a youngster watching my dad make an honest living turning wrenches I've learned that all makes of cars have issues,even the infallable Toyota Camary likes to eat belts with the A/C seizing up, just to point to the up and rising king of the world,Toyota wouldn't back it up on a car with only 120,000 miles.That was an 800.00 bill to correct that problem on my sisters car. Maybe the posts are right about making it a required maintenance item but also look at how many owners get beyond the 150,000 mile mark without it and I don't see Subaru doing that,as Nipper said the expectancy nowadays is somewhere around 130,000 miles.if you love the car put a new engine in it otherwise offer it up to a junk yard and let other happy Subie owners nab the parts off of it. I'm not trying to be a hard rump roast with this thread and I hope it doesn't come across that way. John

Did mechanic check block and heads for cracks? You are getting into some serious expenses here,might want to find a new or used engine tp put in. John

Gotta side with Nipper on this one,had a 79 Ford truck with hard service with 250,000 miles,supposedly a 100,000 mile engine at best at the time,just comes with the flow,have had foreign and domestic engines go to both extremes, at anything over 100,000 you're doing good,of course you didn't provide maintenance records( as the dealer says)

As I'm fairly new to the Sub family,I just need to ask if this space problem is only related to the 2.5 or what? My 2.2 in my 93 Wagon is very simple to change plugs and wires on,it was definitely harder on my mom's Caddy. John

After reading through this long post I've got to add that while I support a qualified mechanic earning a good living I have a real issue with shops that charge flat rates,an estimate of the time believed to be needed per a book that the shop believes is reliable x a per hour rate,up here in Montana it's approaching 90.00 per hour,the book says it takes an hour to change a rear turn signal on a 79 Ford pickup-you get charged 90.00 plus incredibly expensive parts,to remove two screws and twist a bulb out.These shops do eat it with inexperienced techs that do the wrong things,I accept it's part of their education,but they also have experienced techs leaning over their shoulders teaching them the tricks,but those techs also teach bad habits llike cutting corners that just don't fit with todays engineering,like using used parts in an area where a new part is totally needed and for the cost of the new part compared to used totally stupid to use inferior.Well I'm just ranting due to experiences with both dealerships and reputable shops,I can't believe this hasn't been cleared up in the automotive world. John

I'm leaning towards vacuum because I know in my 93 Wagon L when climbing mountainous grades the defrost shuts off and blows cold air out at my feet,this only seems to happen near or at WOT. It's never bothered me enough to tear apart anything. John

Please don't take the owners word for it,as suggested before take it out and test it yourself.Might sound like a good deal now but 2 months from now replacing the pack because of TB won't taste so well. Of course finding out before may enable you to drive the price way down at least enough to cover yourself if you have to front those expenses. John

Are these systems so precise they can detect that it is a gas cap or just a fuel pressure problem.I know on alot of vehicles,domestic and foreign, not tightening the gas cap will throw a emission code,tighten the gas cap and the code or CEL light clears itself.Just curious??? John

Hi Dan,welcome. I would advise against using WD 40 to fix this problem as it may actually be making the problem worse since WD 40 attracts dust and dirt. It sounds as though you may have a turn signal switch not making connection with it's contacts inside the switch for want of a better term. when you engage the switch it engages a contact with the appropriate side of the switch,sounds like this isn't happening all the time. haven't done it yet on a Subie but on my American cars you had to take the steering wheel off to get to the switch for removal. You might try an electrical spray cleaner and see if it does any good,the variety they use to clean audio equipment to alleviate scratchy noises when adjusting volume and such ( can't remember the name of the stuff right now) ( contact switch cleaner??). Give that a try. John

IMO, I would take it to another shop and see what they say. There is a fine line about when and where you can patch a tire ( or plug it). The tire shop I worked at recommended replacement if the hole was more than a 1/4 inch beyond the diameter of the tread at it's lowest point, or in different terms,from the bottom of where the tread starts plus a 1/4 inch into the sidewall but if the puncture is going into the tread even at it's lowest point it was repairable,this won't work on any kind of low pro tire though.Of course if it is in the sidewall at all fork over the bucks now before you regret it later . I have used this philosophy on all my vehicles including my truck that pulls heavy loads( 9000 plus) and have never had a failure. John

I read somewhere that there is a hole in the transmission bellhousing that accomodates a special flywheel tool that bolts to the housing or maybe just sits there and has teeth that sit in the teeth of the flywheel/ flexplate. Will try to find where I read this and pass it along. John

A clock spring isn't related to a clock,it is generally a thin ribbon of metal inside the steering wheel that provides for continous contact,mainly I think for power to the air bag system,used widely in Chrysler,Jeep products. John

Again,more info-did the wobbling disfigure the shaft keeping the woodrufkey in place.From the little info i've been able to discern it sounds like things are pretty messed up,if the crank is disfigured get some professional help,otherwise try some heat and the screwdriver cold chisel trick.