lhrocker

I'm going to check out a 95 Legacy sedan next week and want to know if $2700 is a good price: Hunter green 85000 original miles - owned by a lady who passed it to her son Timing belts done 2 years ago when the car was at 65000 Oil changed every 3-5K No engine/tranny issues - just passed NY inspection a month ago No rust Power package, moonroof, alloys Sounds too good to be true, but I can't get any pictures - I will only know when I go see it. What is the lowest that I could go in terms of negotiations? The guy has 4 cars and needs to sell this one off.

It's on ebay and is currently under $600 with 2 hours to go. It has 161K and is an auto trans - ebay number 320097766936. That's all that I know.

I am looking at buying an inexpensive outback that I was told overheats during long drives, but not short drives. Without seeing the car, what are the chances of it actually being a head gasket issue? Is it worth it if I get the car under $1K or that ballpark?

I got rid of my 95 legacy and I am looking to get another subaru. I would love to get another 95 with relatively low miles if I can, but other than that, what are good years and what are bad years? How long was the head gasket issue? 1996 - ???? and for 2.5's only?

95 Legacy wagon w 2.2 automatic and 204K+ miles. It was really cold (20 degrees) the last time I tried it, but it's got other issues (tranny), so I'm just looking to see what is my next step. No CEL, tranny's not catching, after a short ride, there is some smoke by the engine under the battery. I'd like to get it to at least start and idle normal, otherwise it will be a tow to the mechanic and take my chances.

When I start my Soobie, the car starts up, revs and idles slow for a few seconds - up to 10 - and then revvs up to normal. It use to start go rev normally. I can try changing stuff, but I guess I need a bit of direction. Anyone???

John - I know I'll have to do work eventually - just don't want to spend the cash to lay out more cash a few weeks later.

Just finished the test drive on the 95 Legacy. It drives very well and is really clean. Outside shines, but the engine compartment is spotless, which is kinda scary. 115K miles with TB chages at 60K. Is $3250 a good price? Also found out that the 97 Legacy with 63K is also a 2.2 with a $5500 asking price. Both are firm, but will cut me a deal if I get both.

Well, the 97 is definitely a Legacy and not an outback. I'm going to look at the 95 today and the 97 next week. Then I'll make my choice. I am looking for a car to get me to work and back primarily. If I could get 2 to 3 years out of it, that would be great.

That's cool - maybe I'll just have my 95 towed to a repair shop and get a guesstimate on fixing it. If for under $1k I can get another 50K miles out of it, I'm still out on top.

I'm well aware of the head gasket issues on the 2.5's, but at 63k original miles, is that something to take into consideration. Personally, I will probably stay with the 95's 2.2, but it's always good to get other opinions.

I'm replacing my 95 Legacy wagon and found the following - which would you get? 95 Legacy L, 115000 miles, all service records - $3200 97 Legacy L, 63000 miles, all service records - $5500 Both cars are very clean. I like the 95 cause I know the car, non-interference engine, I know can get another 100K out of it and it's cheaper. 97 is amazing at that mileage, but timing will be needed shortly??? Also, if I just want a good commuter for work (500 miles/week), will any Legacy w/under 150K that is mechanically sound do? I'd prefer to spend less now and get a nice late model or maybe new weekend/family car.

1995 Legacy L wagon - 204500. It's on it's last leg, so I'm getting ready to let her go. I think it's a combo engine/tranny, but not sure yet. Get some smoke on the engine by the battery when I drive it. Looking for another...

How easy is it to remove the roof rack on a 95 legacy?

What is the best way to tighten the bolt on a crank shaft pulley?

I drive between 85 to 150 miles a day depending on which office I have to be at, so I need dependibility. I can get the same car used for about $2k, I think. I know tranny work is expensive, and after just doing timing belt, radiator and water pump over the summer, if it's worth putting anymore money into it. Any Subie experts in Northern NJ/Sussex?

I have a 95 Legacy with 205K+ miles and what looks like a transmission problem. It's kind of rough when you start up, but when you put it into R, it doesn't always go smoothly. When you have it in drive, you have to give it quite a bit of gas before it goes and when it does, the tach usually goes to 3K before shifting (cold). When it is warm, it shifts fine. Should I have it diagnosed or should I just donate it to a charity that will take it?

The duct tape is a good idea on for the plug socket. The first time I did my plugs, the socket came off the ratchet and I thought I was screwed. After I got it out, I went to Home Depot and got a set of locking extensions. They are my best friend now!!!

I got the bolt from the dealer today and it wasn't actually what I needed. They thought it was the bolt that tightens on the pulley. What I needed as the adjuster that goes on the pulley itself. Anyway, they had that in stock, so it cost me $7.00 for both. Now my AC belt no longer squeals, which is good!!!

I wanted to replace the entire assembly, but when I went to the dealer, they had it in parts and wasn't sure of the nut. I don't think it is just a standard nut, but I will know better when I take the assembly apart. For now, it will just squeak a little when the compressor goes on and off.

The nut where the A/C belt tension bolt adjustments are made broke today. Is this nut part of the pulley or is it just a nut? I know that I can remove the entire tension adjustment assembly, but I'd like to know if I just need the nut or if the nut part of the actual pulley. Thanx, Pete

After seeing this thread, I decided to try a bottle of techron this weekend. My 95 Legacy was always at the 1/2 between full and 3/4 when I filled up and would be at E at 180 miles. I tossed in a the 20 ounce bottle at fillup and had the car sit. On my way to work, I am at a little over 1/2 between full and 3/4 at 50 miles. This may be what my car needed. Fingers crossed for a bit better gas mileage also!!!

Stupid Question - How can you tighten the bolt if the pulley moves? Is there someway to lock the pulley down?

I removed the fan belts and removed the crank pulley was totally shot. The key was no where to be found either - and I just had my timing done a month ago. I was able to get the pulley and key from the dealer, and my brother in-law and I put it back together. I replaced the AC belt while I was at it, so hopefully everything is fine now. The only thing I'm not sure of is whether the pulley bolt is tight enough. It seems pretty tight, but it would suck if it comes loose again.

So I guess I should start looking for a new car?