matt4irish

Thanks! I appreciate the guidance!

Does anyone have a comprehensive list or photos of all the major grounding points on a 2005 Outback 2.5i? And can anyone tell me definitively which ones would most directly impact Keyless Entry and key ignition operation?

Yes, battery seems fine. It's odd. Car is parked in garage, so every couple hours I try to use the fob to see if entry responds. During about 1/2 of the episodes, I get no response. Then, I might do it a couple hours later and get response, it is a total crap shoot. I have been confident it works fine and then wife takes the car for the day and the fob won't work at all. It's a real puzzler. I'm thinking intermittent ground. Wish I knew where every last ground point was on the car. I would clean them all!

2005 Outback 2.5i I have been having intermittent issues with Keyless Entry not working. I've replaced battery in fob, cleaned terminals, cleaned body ground, etc. Battery is good. Also, one day, recently, I also had an issue where I turned key and nothing.....no click, no starter turn over, no dimming of overhead or head lights as key hit start position. Starter has been replaced once (although still possible it could have a flat spot). I have to suspect the two may be related. Still think it could be a bad ground, but as mentioned, normally will still start except for that one time. Seems like after it starts the entry will work for a bit, but then returns to dead. I'm uncertain as to the function of the security relay (located near glovebox), but it appears that may effect the grounding to the starter, so a keyless entry issue may compound into a starting issue....thoughts? With all that said, my suspects in order of concern (and likely cost) are: Wiring Keyless Entry Module Security Relay Starter Relay Body Integrated Unit Engine Control Module *unlikely) Unless there are other ideas, I'd like to start at the Keyless Entry Module. I'm having trouble understanding the function of each of the 8 wires in the i96 connector. From diagrams I can only really isolate three. Anyone have any ideas what the other wires do? 1-? 2-? 3-YG to A9 of BIU (uncertain of function) 4-LR-to FB-10 M/B Fuse #8 (I assume this is 12V constant) 5-? 6-? 7-BY-to ground and A21 of BIU (assume this is the constant GROUND) 8-? Any other possible advice? This is my wife's car and with this intermittent issue, I don't want her to drive it and end up stranded in the coming winter chill. Thanks!

Numbchux was correct. I had the shaft done by a "reputable shop", but took it out and back to them. Turns out the shaft was out of balance. After rebalancing, I reinstalled the shaft. Smooth as can be again. Amazing that it was the first thing fixed and had to be redone as the last thing! Thanks everyone for your help!

No deep water to my knowledge. When you say rear wheel bearings, I am assuming you mean the LR and RR at the hubs, not bearings in the differential, correct? And if so, I could probably do so by removing axles and rolling the hub/bearing by hand to check for rough spots, correct?

I'm wondering of there's a chance the companion flange or a bearing in the rear diff is wonky...

I thought when she bought the car there was a slight vibration. She's had it about a year...the vibration seems much stronger now. That's why I said developed. No tire changes yet...I was waiting to get the vibe cured so that whatever it was would not destroy a new set of tires! No wrecks since we've had the car. The only work done was a change out of the RF spindle and change of propeller shaft as noted.

Struts are of unknown age. I did notice some strange tire wear on the front right tire, almost like a combination of cupping and flat spotting in a random pattern. That's what precipitated the extra work on the front right. Hard to believe strut vibration would be affected by the AWD fuse though?!?!?

Need some guidance/advice and this group has always helped me learn!!! My wife's 2005 Outback 2.5i w/ the 4EAT has developed a heavy vibration most pronounced while accelerating in a straight line. It kicks in a bit around 20mph, but really comes back loud and strong at 40mph and above. Enough to shake the whole interior, make the rearview mirror fuzzy, etc. It is rhythmic, but loud enough to be a strong hum (which is why wheel bearings were checked). It did appear there was irregular tire wear on the RF which will explain some of the repairs attempted, but nothing has cured... Chased out the following suspects... Tires (full swap from my 2005 OB that had just been wheel balanced and relatively new, no change) Propeller shaft (swapped for my old seized one from my 2005 OB which I had redone with servicable U joints and installed, no change) Found a bit of notchiness in RF wheel bearing, replaced spindle with one with good, smooth bearing...no change Replaced FR drive shaft/CV axle ... no change. After doing the CV, was considering doing LF when I thought, hey, why not put in the AWD fuse to disable AWD and leave as FWD only and guess what? Vibration is gone whne fuse is installed. So, that leaves me with questions... Is this a failure in the front differential? Transmission Issue? Rear Differential? And how to I effectively wigure out which? The ATF level looks fine and it is pink, not brown or black. The front differential fluid looked sufficiently filled and nearly clear. Have not yet been able to open rear differential as plugs are super stuck...lots of penetrant on them now, so they may break loose later or when I can get on a hoist to get more leverage. How would you go about next steps? And if it is deemed to be a failure requiring transmission removal, I can source a low mileage (say 100K miles) transmission for around $500. What would a reasonable labor cost be for a transmission swap? Thanks in advance for all good advice!!! The Subaru community is awesome!

When I changed the crank sensor, the cable was still intact, but my guess it was solely the insulation that was together because BOTH contacts broke as I rechecked it. So props to Subaru's OBDII code as the only one that had lit was crank sensor and it was correct. It had lost crank sensor communication. I had to repin using the existing Subaru connector as I don't see any aftermarkets, so I guess I have a little something on my salvage yard wish list for Santa. Once repinned, it fired IMMEDIATELY!!! So, the chase to 300,000 miles continues! THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED!

You just gave me more hope! Cant wait for the new relay to come in!

Any ideas?

So here's where I am at . . . Need some help. Car died. Now, the starter will crank, but getting no fuel injector pulse and no spark. Tested or done so far: 1) Replaced Crank Sensor 2) Replaced Cam Sensor 3) Pulled Timing Covers, all is spot on 4) Verified 12V to Ignitor and Coil Pack, but no pulse 5) Verified 12V to yellow wire on injector 1, but no ground in brown wire, so noid will not light at all. Whether ON or IGN or OFF 6) Bench tested main relay per FSM procedure and it energizes and throws 12V to all 5 ports 7) Unplugged ECM connector to do tests as per FSM. 8) First test is for 12V between 1 and 19. No + on terminal 1, 19 has ground =FAIL 9) Second test is for 12V between 2 and 19. No + on terminal 2, 19 has ground =FAIL 10) Third test is for 12V between 39 and 19. + on terminal 39, 19 has ground =PASS 11) Fourth test is all ECM grounds 17, 1, 19, 20, 42, 46, 69, 94, 95, all show continuity to known body ground =PASS So, I am leaning back to main relay as I believe that is the part that throws power to terminals 1 and 2 on ECM, but the guidance is confusing in FSM. I don't really understand how power gets from battery to terminals 1 and 2 in ECU connector (B84). Is it solely from the main relay? If so, what triggers the main relay to throw that signal? In terms of downstream from the main relay, I can see the following: Main relay (MR) terminal 1, I see proper ground (PASS) MR terminal 2 appears to be tied to ECM 63 and I am not seeing signal come through (FAIL) MR terminal 3 appears to connect to ECM terminals 1 and 2 and I am not seeing the signal come through (FAIL) MR terminal 4 appears to go to IAC solenoid and purge control solenoid, haven't tested. (UNKNOWN) MR terminals 5 and 6 seems to come from SBF2 and I see 12V + constant. (PASS) So, I need help understanding the sequencing in the main relay as to what triggers what because clearly I am not seeing power come back from MR terminal 3 to power ECU 1 and 2 when the harness is unplugged. Also, should the MR click to engage every time the the key is turned from off to on? It doesn't seem to do so, so that makes me wonder if there is an issue inside the MR. Am I going down the right track? Any other ideas???

With the harness unplugged from the ECM, I am not getting the positive signal from terminals 1 or 2 on the B84 ECU connector. The ground on 19 is good and confirmed.