matt4irish

Hey also, what do you guys think is a reasonable price for this car? Body is fairly rough, but tires are virtually brand new. Runs strong. Probably more the "winter beater" type car or would be good for someone who wants a strong engine/tranny combo. I'm not sure what it's really worth. I'd love your weigh in on that too.

Part of the issue may be just how much it sat I'm guessing. Running anything through it for sustained driving will likely also work to help break down some deposits. Based on what I'm reading from your replies, would I better served by using a 5w30 or 10w40 oil when I replace if I'm dealing with what may be a series of symptoms that are only occurring in low pressure scenarios? Thanks again . . . I continue to learn from your collective expertise!

I was thinking lifters too. So, the reality is that I will be selling the car as my Subie is a '96 Outback. Since I'm selling, my concerns are two-fold: 1) Is there risk of any true engine damage with this condition? 2) Can I do some things that might "clean" the somewhat blocked passages and restore normal operation on a permanent basis? I've seen lots of talk about using Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil in conjunction with a good oil change, but would value your expert opinions. In all honesty, I have not even changed the oil yet. Due to the 1 cylinder down issue from the formerly non-functioning fuel injector, I wanted to eliminate that issue first. Now that the power's back, I will likely due a 5w30 oil change. Should I add the MMO or Seafoam? And if so, can they provide a long-term fix as opposed to a cover? Thanks!

Have a 1990 Legacy L Wagon w/ 224k+ mi. A friend had the car for 4 years and we just got it back and have been working through some issues due to the fact that it sat idle for a period of time (run intermittently the last two years). An example would be a failed #1 fuel injector that we replaced. Anyhow, the car starts right up and runs strong (i.e. lots of power). The strange thing is that after it warms for a few minutes, it develops a rythmic ticking-like sound. It seems to come more from the passenger side and disappears upon acceleration. It returns at idle, and then goes away completely if the car is stopped and cooled. It almost seems like the opposite of piston slap. Any ideas?

Thanks for the initial thoughts. No other issues with the vehicle. In fact other than these two isolated incidents, the transmission works smoothly and fuel mileage (MPG) remains consistent. If the solenoid were sticking in some way, is that a serviceable item without pulling the AT?

1996 Legacy Outback Wagon with 220k miles has new behavior I need help understanding. It appears transmission related. Two days ago, I started down a level highway and transmission shifted normally until about 60 mph when I noticed that it failed to make the final shift to the highest gear. Engine hit about 4000 rpm and then I backed down. Tried to make a couple runs at it and it exhibited the same behavior. I pulled over, turned off the ignition, restarted, and the car drove fine. Tonight, I was stopped at a stoplight (in town) and when I pulled away on the green, the same behavior repeated, but this time in 1st gear. Did not want to shift to 2nd gear. Again, I pulled over, turned off the ignition, restarted, and then the transmission worked fine. Has anyone experienced the same? What did you determine cause/remedy to be? I've had the car since about 168k and am unsure as to ATF change history. I know that I have not changed ATF since I have owned and that would be a good place to start. However, I'm wonderingf if this may be more of an electronic issue due to the way it presents. Any advice/assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Cougar . . . Great news!!! Replaced the ECU tonight, and guess what . . . the car started and ran and ran and ran! Looks like the problem all along was an ECU!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for all your help and persistence. I'm a big fan of car-part.com. That's where we found the appropriate ECU and ordered. Once it was replaced, the car ran fine. Only $25 +$10 shipping from a yard in PA! Hooray for ultimatesubaru.org & car-part.com!!! Thanks again, Matt:headbang: :headbang:

He just ran out and it started right up, ran 10 minutes, then stalled under load. He sprayed carb/choke cleaner in throttle body (no starting fluid on hand) and tried to start . . . nothing. Sprayed again, nothing. Believes there is still spark. It almost seems that car might be developing these problems when ECM moves from open loop to closed. Does that seem plausible and how would we know when it ECM switches modes?

Your answers are helping and I do feel like I'm learning. He's not home tonight so he couldn't spray in throttle body, but this process made me think of another question. It does seem fuel flows easily during idle and then something happens. I'm confused a bit about the function of the fuel pump relay (FPR). Is there any time that the ECU sends a signal to the FPR and tells it to cut the pump? It definitely seems like something happens that changes the fuel . . . either the supply is cut (like if FPR circuit opened) or the injection process stops (not sure how or why). Having a fuel pressure guage on while we duplicate this will help, but I know we tested in past and the fuel pressure remained stable at 30-32 psi. Feel like we're getting warmer, but would love your thoughts.

Will have him try to spray into the intake to see if it will fire. In your experience, will one bad injector take the whole system down? And, what is the best way to check injectors? I noted the resistance for each injector, should the higher readings concern us? Aren't the injectors and their firing controlled by the ECU once the car warms and the ECU takes over? Forgive my plethora of questions . . . kind of new at tracing "lack of fuel" issues beyond the dead fuel pumps I have seen in the past.

Strange thing is that after it stalls, a no start condition remains. It will crank and crank, no start, BUT, we can hear the pump whir when the key is turned before the cranking. It is a real puzzler. We really appreciate your continued guidance!

Would you believe this car is still dead? I've been away for awhile and my friend had a new baby and took in a foster teenager . . . man that's a double whammy, but a great excuse for not doing any more diagnosis. So, tonight he went out and started the car. She started right up and ran for about 10 minutes, came up to temp just fine, and then did the old sputter and die. He actually pulled all 4 plugs. The plugs ALL appeared DRY. Then, he pulled each injector connector and measured the resistance on each injector. The values are as follows: Passenger Rear (3) -12.8 ohms Passenger Front (1) - 16.4 ohms Driver Front (2) - 17.4 ohms Driver Rear (4) - 12.7 ohms These are a little off the spec. of 12 ohms, but not dramatically. We had swapped fuel pumps, so I think the pump is good, but can't tell you for sure that pressure is maintained at the stalling point as the pressure guage is at my house (27 miles away). We will likely this next, or anything else anyone suggests. Leaning toward ECM, but not ready to go there yet. If so, it is the 22611AA380 ECM. Anyone got one close to Indiana? Thanks in advance for any and all ideas!!! Matt: :-\

Some progress today. Routed a rubber fuel line hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator output around the rear of the engine compartment to the return line near the fuel filter. The car started and idled great and for a LONG time (15 minutes). Still bucked and sputtered when we pressed on accelerator, but the car was much harder to stall. Finally after about 20 minutes of idling, we were able to accelerate crisply to 2500 rpms twice in succession without bucking. The car stalled a few minutes later. Would not restart. Starting to wonder if Skip's fuel pressure regulator might be the next part we consider eliminating by substitution. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

Skip, Please don't resign...hope my slowness in this isn't frustrating you. The primary issue is that the friend's house is 25 miles away and he has he car outside. The weather here stinks, so it takes extra motivation to get there!!! Plus, I need to keep the home life in check too! Your picture is exactly the correct fuel line . . . the blockage is about 6 inches further downstream after the line makes a 90 degree turn toward the front of the car passing under the intake for cylinder 3, then 1, I believe. You are correct, I should pull the plugs 1 x 1 and check. I think your theory about abnormally high pressure is probably right on and that high pressure may be most noticable at injectors 1 and 3 since they must be just upstream of the FPR. I have seen the #1 plug very wet in the past. Need to pull the other 3 when the car stalls. In the meantime, do you think I could cut the damaged part of the line and put in a securely clamped rubber fuel hose across the damaged area under the intake or would there potentially be too much heat? I think to replace this line, I would otherwise have to pull the entire intake. Thanks again, you are a TERRIFIC help!

OK . . . here's the latest. Pulled timing belt covers, no issues. Car actually started today and idled fine for awhile, but started to buck and backfire at about 1800 rpm. Though it was cold (30 degrees) and windy (30mph) and I was outside, I got a chance to really check things out and a couple things jumped out. First, the hose from the crankcase that goes to the T or Y valve that connects to the air intake and PVC valve was severely cracked. Probably lets air suck in. Doubt that's enought to cause the issue, but will get a better hose in there! Second, I noticed that one of the fuel lines was seriously "smashed". This metal fuel line runs under the intake manifold on the passenger side (right under the two pipes of the manifold that curve downward toward the fuel injectors). It makes a 90 degree bend behind the manifold and connects to a small rubber hose that goes into (or comes out of) the fuel pressure regulator. Honestly, it looks like a beer can would if you stepped on the middle of it. Not sure how a line like this could get smashed. Wonder if it collapsed in some way. Finally, I pulled apart the IAC and gave her a good clean. Car wouldn't restart, but we may be on to why! A few questions: 1) Do you think a heavy restriction in this line could be the issue? Maybe in the "smashed" state not enough fuel really flows, or some sediment or something broke loose and lodged across this restriction. 2) Could this theoretically "unbalance the fuel pressure", making it appear normal when connecting a fuel pressure guage to a T fitting by the fuel pump, but leaving the passenger side cylinders (1 & 3 I believe) starving while resulting in lots of fuel (loading) to the drivers side cylinders (2 &4)? 3) Or could it simply be a volume game. That's why the car will occasionally start and idle for awhile, but stall under a load (starving in cylinders 1 & 3 near the fuel pressure regulator)? 4) Is the crankcase hose at all likely to be a cause? Not looking forward to getting to this as I imagine the whole intake has to come apart to replace the fuel rail (or fuel line). Welcome any input. You all have been great help! :banghead:

HELP!!! See last post regarding timing question . . . looks like this belt has been on 6 1/2 years/80,000 miles. Can't visually inspect until weekend, but are my questions in prior post possible?

Long delay in evaluating this as the friend lives in the country and the car's been buried in snowdrifts. I replaced fuel pump today just to be sure (remember, I said the car was flooding, but I had a line on a cheap fuel pump). No change. Car started and sputtered like crazy for a few seconds before dying. Riddle me this . . . could the timing be off? I know that's an obvious question, but take it one step farther. If the timing were off slightly, could that cause the car to act flooded? And then, if the car were allowed to sit for a protracted period (days and days), could it restart and idle strongly for a few minutes only to sputter and die when put in gear and then accelerated? Really confused by this! Thanks in advance!

No ECU codes thrown. Compression has been between 165-180 in each of the four cylinders.

Thanks . . . will do! Will let you know!

This may be a really ignorant question, but how do you reset the ECU? We have disconnected the battery for 2-5 minutes each time. Does that do it?

Will check when I can get back to his place. Wonder if this could be ECU issue? No Engine Codes thrown, but OBD-1 often doesn't give much insight. Thanks . . . all suggestions welcomed!

Original Subaru MAF Part #s were identical on 90 and 96. Actually 90 Subaru MAF looked super clean. We have checked vacuum hoses thoroughly, but will check again. Swapped the PCV valves too, no changes. This one has been a real bummer.

My friend's 1990 Subaru Legacy L Wagon 2.2 has developed a problem that is perplexing us. He was driving the car when suddenly it began to buck and then stalled. Was able to restart a couple times and limp the car home. However, once home it rarely starts. For the past several weeks, we have tried to assess the situation and repair to no avail. First, he replaced fuel filter. We put a fuel pressure guage on and the guage shows 30psi when the key is turned and this pressure is maintained during cranking. The car seems to have spark in all cylinders. It turns and turns, but no start. If it is left unattended for a few days, the car will start, run for a few minutes, but will ultimately warm and stall. When it stalls, it bucks roughly first, then dies. We checked the temp coolant sensor and found it had rotted. We replaced the temp coolant sensor and the car started, ran for a good 10 minutes, but as soon as we gained the confidence to take it for a test drive, we made it down his drive and the car started to buck and stalled. Had to tow strap back to his garage and the same symptoms reappeared. Crank and crank, but no start. The cranskshaft sensor shows varying voltage while cranking (believe this shows it is functioning). We can't seem to get a test on the cam sensor, but have replaced with another used unit, still nothing. We swapped the MAF out of my fine running 96 Outback (it was same part #) and no change. We think the car may actually be flooding itself out, but this is only due to the fact that at one point we pulled the #1 plug out and saw it was wet (after repeated cranking). Any advice is very much welcomed. Thanks!