silverhelme

As long as you can find a donor car the swap is fairly straight forward, just time consuming. It is just a matter of swapping parts which may include the wiring harness. Stock trans for this would be the 3at. If it is not abused and properly maintained they can last but are not able to stand up to 4 wheeling or extra HP. I have been running one in my 83 Brat for about 80k and know for a fact that it has 200k on it ( I bought it from the original owner ). It still works fine but I keep up with maintaining it.

I did this swap in my 83 Brat and it changed the feel of the old car. I put in the SPFI with the help of GD's write up. Mine is an auto and the motor was out of an auto so it was a bolt in to the flex plate and trans but you will need to widen the motor mount slots about a quarter inch on each side. The SPFI engine really awaken this car. I am now able to pull hills in high gear that needed second gear before. I am happy with the swap but be sure to change your belts, seals and valve cover gaskets before you put the motor in. That said I am currently abut a month away from dropping in an EJ22.

It really does not matter whether you disconnect the stub or not, The mistake you made was not driving the axle back before you unbolted the rest of the parts. See picture 5 and the caption above it in the link you posted to see what I mean. At this point you either have to partially bolt it back up to drive the axle back or disconnect the inside of the axle and try to drive it out on the bench or with a press.

Had the same problem when I put the ea82 in my 84. I slotted the frame about 1/2 inch on each side to solve the problem but I still had it hitting the drivers side frame. I loosened the mount to engine bolts and centered the engine using wooden wedges then tighten the mounts back up and it no longer hit the frame. Mine is a 3at so all I had to do elsewhere for clearance was move the proportioning valve back about an inch. To make things easy I even moved the battery to the drivers side to install the breather (SPFI) in the stock location.

I had the same thing happen on an 88 turbo. It was a bad connection at the CTS.

Did you plug in the connectors to set the timing and forget to unplug them?

Good to hear. Did you give the governor one last go through to get it working or did it just start working by itself?

I've used both with about equal success.

Check or replace the vacuum modulator ( be careful of the little actuator rod ). It will affect where it shifts and how hard.

It should not make any difference which way they are hooked up. You should get some heat either way. I assume you have checked the obvious ( coolant level, temp switch is set to hot etc ) so the next thing to check is if the cable is connected to the heater control valve ( water cock in the manual ) under the dash.

Glad to be of help. The rear seal on the trans is an easy change to stop the leak.

Any year that uses the 3AT will interchange. If I remember '82-'93.

It is fairly easy and is actually part of the regular 30k or 60k (I can't remember which) procedure to maintain the transmissions.

In that case you might be in luck. You can have the crank offset ground to help with the difference in piston height and give you the correct crank pin diameter. This is done all the time in american v8's. The plus side is that depending on which direction you move the offset you may gain more cc's and stroke than the factory 2.5.

I would double check the governor as I have had clean and seemingly free ones the would not shift. As far as adjusting the band it is fairly simple and the procedure can be found in Haynes or Chiltons ( at least it is in mine ) or it can be found here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/1983%20Subaru%20EA81.pdf in section 7 page 34 item 10.

The 3at has an electric solenoid to control full throttle kick down and a vacuum and governor controlled part throttle kick down. If is a part throttle issue clean and smooth up the parts in the governor, change the fluid and check the vacuum modulator for correct function. The method to clean the governor can be found here http://www.indysworl...ovenorclean.htm

Who ever this person is every time I open his question it tries to download files to my computer. His may be infected.

You may be correct ivan. Interchange shows 84 down and 85 up. He may be able to swap the output shaft and housing if I remember correctly.

You could flush it a couple of times. It may last for a while till you can find another or find the parts for a manual swap.

The flex plate and converter stay the same, use your original unless you have metal in the fluid. You can use an ea82 converter if you have to and it will bolt up but may have a different stall speed.

Should be the same except for the converter. The converter will work just has a slightly different stall speed.

It sounds like you are looking at the ac idle up, not the choke fast idle. Brumby is probably correct if you fiddled around the carb any during your "tune up". Gloyale may be correct also, did you actually look? Most people are like me, they may look at a thread but if they don't know an answer they keep their mouths shut and move on. Instead of being an a$$ just say that didn't work or that's not it and ask for more suggestions and just for you info yes I know what I am doing. I have almost 45 years as a mechanic and have worked on Subarus for 15.

Once I cleaned up the motors they work fine and being as good window crank handles are getting hard to find they make life a lot better.

Just did power windows in my 83 Brat. I used the wiring out of an 84 coupe. I used the complete door off of the coupe and changed the glass rather than install the insides out of them and the wiring is mostly just a sub unit and you may even have the correct plugins already in the Brat. Mine did as well as the plugins for power mirrors.

I am probably one of the few on the board who will use the 3at on a consistent basis. If you adjust the 2-3 band and keep the governor clean and deburred and change the fluid occasionally they tend to last a long time. I have rebuilt them and they are quite simple and very similar to a Ford C4. They generally only need the 2-3 band, new seals and any hard parts that are broken but be sure and check all the bands for correct thickness. They are not that hard to change out. I have done it in the yard in less than 4 hours. If it was me I would source another trans or replace the broken main shaft and check everything else.