silverhelme

A 670 will probably make the poor EA81 fall flat on it's manifold even boosted. You probably want to try this http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/holley/part-type/carburetors/number-of-barrels/4/carburetor-flange/square-bore/cfm/390 or maybe a 450 cfm.

I did the relay on my Brat 15 years ago when I had the same problems as you. I based it off of an old trick for GM starters using a Ford relay but a standard 30 amp relay will work also. I tend to do it to all my old Subarus just because and have never had a starter fail since.

If I remember correctly the turbo loyales after 1987 used the 4eat transmission that does not use a vacuum modulator. The function of the modulator is done by the transmission control module. Who told you that it needed changed and what are the symptoms?

You might try adjusting the 2-3 band for a short term fix. These are supposed to be adjusted every 60k but most people don't. I purchased one with the same symptoms as your's so I adjusted the band and am still driving it 18 years later.

I think that's the one. With the two of them I am going to try to repair my air flow meter but if I can't does anyone have a spare cheap?

That is not the one I was thinking of but it helps.There was someone here on the board who had a thread also.

I know that sometime in the past someone had a write up on how to repair a flapper type air flow meter for ea81t's but the search function in this new format will not find it. Does anyone remember how or have a link to the article?

If the plugs are correct, run a fuel pressure check and you will probably find a bad / wrong fuel pump or possibly still a bad regulator.

Did you install the copper crush washers on the bolts for the water inlets for the turbo? If not they will leak when you do get coolant to it.

Turbosubarubrat your car did not come with a water cooled turbo (you are using an EA82 turbo) so to use it you have to be a little bit creative to run cooling lines for it. I just ran T,s at my heater hoses and used it that way but it sounds like naru found a return spot on the RH head to to tap into. I may have to look into that myself.

I did not even catch that Gloyale. I think you are right. All he needs to do to run it is cap the ends. What he needs to do is route his heater core lines over to the turbo like I did on my 84 coupe.

If you look at the nuts where you pushed you should see locking tabs under each nut if it is a hydro. There should have been stickers on the valve covers that said " do not adjust " but if it is like my Brat they were missing. If it is a hydro block I think it is different and you can't swap lifters because the oiling is different. I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I have never seen the locking tabs on a non-hydro motor.

You might try looking at the door switches. All 4 were bad on the last Loyale wagon I worked on.

As Shawn said you really need the engine in to get proper grounds. The lighting system on your wagon is very dependent on grounds for switching. I would suggest getting your engine in and set up before worrying about the lights.

I know it is a long shot and someone else will chime in with the gear ratios but check to see what the ratio on the rear axle is. I bought one a few years ago for next to nothing that had the same symptoms. Someone had put a stick rear differential in it and the 3.9 vs 3.7 made it a real squirrel. I changed to the correct diff and it has worked fine for 8 years.

I now have a set of brand new tail light lenses for a Brat. Hope I never need them but now I have them.

They must have had the lenses in stock because they shipped yesterday via UPS. Now I will have a spare set of lenses.

I know what most people will say and that is to swap to a 4 or 5 speed. That said there are some of us who can't do that for physical reason, we have to have an automatic. The 3at is ok if it is in good shape to start with and is properly maintained. I have one in my Brat that has over 100k on it since I bought it and it had 130k then. My Turbo Coupe has had 40k put on it since purchased. Maintaining one is fairly easy. Change the fluid every 30k, (not the filter it is just a screen and just needs cleaned) adjust the 2-3 band every 30k and make sure the governor is working correctly. They don't generally hold up to anything but normal everyday driving. That means no 4 bying, racing, etc.

Your vacuum should be at least -17.7 inches at an idle on the hose that goes to the vacuum modulator. Did you actually tear down and clean or just remove and clean the governor? There is a procedure to make sure these work correctly. I think it can be found in one of the write ups but I got it from my manual. Found Shawn's link here http://www.indysworld.com/80s/genera...venorclean.htm

I guess I will find out. I ordered left and right lenses. I don't really need them as I have an extra set but I have to find out. For less than $30 it's a deal.

We all know how hard it is to find second gen Brat tail lights or lenses. I stumbled across this while looking for something else. I don't know if they actually are available but it says both the lens and the complete tail light are. http://www.subarupartsamerica.com/parts/1984/SUBARU/BRAT/GL/?siteid=216122&vehicleid=1267725&section=ELECTRICAL&group=REAR%20LAMPS&subgroup=TAIL%20LAMPS

Yes it is normal to be a bit stiff when new and no you should not try to fill the boot with grease. It should have a place for a zerk fitting on the bottom to grease it after you install it. If it doesn't it should be pregreased from the factory. Ball joints should take about 15 minutes per side. It usually takes me longer to get the jack and tools out than to change it.

Are you looking for the pump on a running ( or formally running ) car or one that you just picked up non running? If it is the latter it may have been removed, if the former you are just not looking hard enough. I can see mine through the wheel well on the triangle shaped plate in front of the passenger side rear axle even with the front corner of the wheel well. The only other possibility is someone pulled out the original and moved it elsewhere and in that case you will just have to follow the fuel line to find it. The only readily accessible places to put an aftermarket pump is in the original spot or in the engine compartment.

Give me about 10 minutes and I will go out and look at mine. It's actually warm enough to go out this morning and look. Mykeys Toys is correct that the pump is on a plate in front of the passenger rear axle. I don't know why I thought it was drivers side I had to upgrade the pump on my Brat when I installed FI a couple of years ago and have changed several over the almost 30 years I've owned Subarus.