silverhelme

Without going out and looking at mine ( it's only 40 degrees here ) it should be in the normal spot just in front of the the drivers side rear axle.

What is the difference between an '86 and an '84? The '84 is still available though Rockauto but the '86 is not.

Yes please provide pics of you set up. I am still looking to see what is available at what price.

I decided to start a new thread because I didn't want to hijack LPGsuperchargedBrumby's build thread. In answer to a question I was asked no I haven't done a conversion yet but I am considering one of these. http://www.http://ewsews.com/index.html What I would like to know is anyone else's experience with LPG or CNG as in what kits are available, what kind of power, pictures of the conversion parts etc. I have noticed lately that both CNG and LPG are both coming down ( Canada prices for CNG is as low as .80 a gallon. What I would like to do is set mine up for dual fuel so that I can take advantage of the lower prices.

I think we need to move this to a new thread so as not to hijack LPGsuperchargedBrumby's build. I am really interested in how his build comes out. I will reopen a general discussion on propane conversion in this retrofitting forum.

By the way I am following this build to see how it turns out.

I was talking gas/LPG and the price is coming down right now on the coast. Last week I paid $2.20 a gal for LPG at a retail place. With the dual fuel you can run either one.You lose a little power on the gas because of the way this one is installed but you gain on the propane. If you want gas/CNG you could do that also. I've seen CNG prices locally for $1.69 gal retail.

PM sent.

Why not make it dual fuel so that you don't have to worry? http://www.http://ewsews.com/cnghome.html

It may or may not be the forward clutch pack. I have picked up a couple of cars that all they needed to work was what I told you to do. One I still have 80k later. This trans is not cheap to rebuild anymore ( they used to be ) because they no longer make a complete "kit" for it. You have to buy all the parts individually. It would be better to locate a good used one and swap it. It can be swapped out in a couple of hours on a hoist and I have done it in 4 on the ground.

You are probably missing the idler pulley like I was so factory length belts would not fit.

I have had this setup and yes it uses two different belts. One catches 4 pulleys and the other catches 5. If I remember correctly I just had to try belts till I found one that would fit on each set then adjust the one for 4 pulleys first ( at the alternator ) then the AC belt second.

First of all welcome to the forum. As to your question you may still have a problem with the governor. See this article to fix that http://www.indysworld.com/80s/genera...venorclean.htm. Then go to the ultimate subaru repair manual, product links and references then Tons of PDF FSM's. Under Old Models and then 83 then look at page 330 and adjust the 2-3 band and also see the list of problems. Lastly change the fluid. All you have to do is pull the plug DO NOT pull the pan and filter unless you have to clean the pan the filter is nothing but a screen. Hope this helps.

Try unplugging the mass air sensor and see if it will stay running. If it does replace the mass air.

You need to adjust your 2-3 band ( normally a 60k maintenance item but not done very often ) and clean up your shift governor per this article http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/Transmission/Governor/ATgovenorclean.htm

To whoever is in charge of picking a spot why don't you check out the Fair grounds in Republic, WA. Beautiful area in the summer, a short drive to 4 wheeling and probably fairly cheap to rent. The real upside is I might actually be able to finally make it this year.

How about a Cadillac 4.9 with an S10 auto or stick. I have one in my Fiero and it scoots. I used the stock 5 speed but if you want 4x4 S10 stuff will fit. The engine block is aluminum and only weighs about as much as the original 4 cylinder.

GD, most of those arm chair mechanic's have probably read the manual which says that wheel bearings and axles have to be pressed in and out ( and other things). I've been a mechanic over 40 years and reading and listening to the people on this board has added a lot to my knowledge of Subaru's. I am happy to admit that I don't know everything but I do take the time to search and read here at USMB. Over the past 18 years that I have become the local area's Subaru expert but I still have to search the forum occasionally to find info and easier ways to do things on Subaru's. Thanks for the help over the years GD.

If you swapped from a 3at double check your rear ratio. All 3at's used 3.70 ratio except the 3at turbos which used a 3.454 ratio. All dual range 5 speeds used a 3.90 ratio except the dr used in the RX which used a 3.70. This is per the ea82 service manual available here on USMB.

Try these guys. http://www.rustrepair.com/index-mf.html Look under the details.

Do not drill or an ez out on them. Take them to a competent machine shop who if they know what they are doing will weld a nut and washer on them and just unscrew them. This is the best way to save the threads. I've done it hundreds of times and never had a failure to get them out. I don't know what the shop rates in Alaska are anymore because I haven't been back for 25 years but the last shop I worked at down here charged $5 a bolt to remove them ( takes about 5 minutes ). It can be done on the car as long as the exhaust is out of the way.

Had one in my Brat and ended up calling a knowledgeable Subaru guy who told me to adjust them to 1/2 turn beyond tight at tdc one cylinder at a time. I worked for me. Just tighten the adjuster until then pushrod will no longer turn and take it 1/2 turn tighter. You have to bring each cylinder to tdc individually.

I' ll let you know when I get mine done. I am using the 3at then am changing to the 4eat later.

Who is your machinist and how can I contact him?

Where did you find .02 os pistons and who did you have bore the block. Most of the shops around here will not touch Subaru blocks. I would like to save one of the engines in one of my Turbo Coupes that has a slight rust ring in one cylinder.