silverhelme

You pulled your engine to check your timing belts? All you had to do is pull the two outside covers and look while someone cranks the motor or crank it by hand to check the belts.

Did your switch actually fail or did it start just going click when you turn the key?

I've used the grease method with good success many times one subaru's over the years and never had a problem. I did it on my neighbors 88 about 10 years ago and it is still running with no problems. The trick is to do a thread or two then remove the tap and regrease several times as you go in then a thin screwdriver and a rag to wipe out as much of the remainder as you can get. I use the NAPA kit with 3/4 inserts.

You still have to pull the center cover but yes you can pull the drivers belt and do the oil pump without pulling the other side.

I have a pdf copy. If you want a copy PM me with your email and I will send it if someone doesn't post a current link.

The longer bolt and nut works fine. I've been using one on my brat for 12 years. Be sure and use the same diameter bolt as the original.

The 3at torque converter will bolt up to the ej flex plate so it could be used but how long it would last is questionable.

The auto in the 85 is a non electronic all you need to do is bolt up the engine swap the wiring to the dash and change the fuel pump plus a few other odds and ends. All the trans needs is a vac feed and it's good but as they say the 5 spd is much better. As long as you are a swapping wiring just swap it all from the dash forward.

I am currently running an 88 EA82 in my 83 Brat with a 3at behind it. For a carbed engine it is fairly easy to wire. Mine is spfi so was a little harder. You will have to relocate the proportioning valve and possibly the hill holder if you use it. If you use the EA81 radiator ( I did ) the upper hose is easy just use stock hose but the lower either has to have the outlet change to EA82 style and direction or use 2 EA82 hoses and a spice ( I did ). The motor mounts are EA82 and you can either slot the frame or leave the mount loose a the engine until you drop it in. If you are using EA82 trans you will have to ask others as I am using the auto and didn't have to change anything. Change all seals and valve cover gaskets BEFORE putting the engine in otherwise you will have to raise the engine to do the valve cover gaskets. I was dumb and had to do it.

Because I play with automatics more than most people I have a specific socket that I have ground the end down to get rid of the bevel. This allows me to get the most bite on the thin heads even on slightly rounded bolts. At this point I would try this so that you have a little extra bite on those rounded heads. Be sure and use a 6 point socket.

I guess that includes me and a couple of my friends. My 07 Impreza developed a leak at 35,000 and a couple of friends with an 05 and 06 have had the same problem, although my 06 with 98,000 has not had a single warranty item.

I will assume form you description that you have a 3at. GD will probably chirp in here and say do a 5 speed swap and he is right unless you have some medical reason to have an auto. As to the up shift problem check the governor on the upper front passenger side of the trans. It is under the domed cover held on by 3 bolts. Check the gear on the end for damage ( apple coring ). If it is you can replace it but it will probably not last very long. If it is not do a search ( or go to the repair section ) and find the thread about unsticking the governor and follow it. In general you should also check the vacuum modulator and adjust the 2-3 band as well as a fluid change. As far as high low these trans only had high and forget about rwd.

With respect to GD, the 3at was an ok trans if properly maintained. I currently have 2 running, one in a Brat and one in a Turbo coupe. I have rebuilt these transmissions with good success but kits have dried up and parts are only available individually. The biggest thing is to keep the 2-3 band adjusted correctly, keep it cool and change fluid about every 20k, If you can find an 82-84 sedan, coupe, or wagon or any Brat ( we tend to hang on to them ) with a complete setup that has a good trans you will have everything you need to change over. After the snow is gone next spring I am going to start my next project. 84 turbo coupe ( no engine or trans ) which will get an EJ with 4eat installed and will let you know how hard it really is. I am in the same situation as far as needing an auto trans. My wife because of physical disabilities can't drive anything else.

The one I use is the NAPA Balkamp threader and inserts. It requires no drilling and if you use wheel bearing grease clean it often as you thread it to keep chips out of the cylinder. The ones I have done have held up 40k plus.

If i'm not mistaken those are the wires for the speed sensor. If you don't have cruise or a computer controlled system they are not hooked up.

Adjust the 2-3 band. The method is in the Haynes manual. I have run into this on both of the older 4eat's I have had.

Be sure your latch is properly adjusted first. It could be out of adjustment, or the core support pushed back slightly. I have found this to be the #1 reason for breaking the cable.

+1 for Gloyale. I have been using this trick on older subarus for 15 years and haven't had to replace a starter yet. I currently have 3 with this setup all purchased because they would not start and the people couldn't afford to replace the starter.

Check the kickdown system ( relay pedal switch and solenoid ) also possibly fuse and wiring. Does it downshift manually?

I have had good luck taking the switches apart and cleaning the contacts. Be extremely careful as there are a lot of small parts inside. Remove the door panel and unplug the switch then remove it from the panel. Take the screws out of the back and carefully pull apart. I would do this over something that can catch any small parts that may fall out. Inside will be small rocker contacts clean both ends and the contact surface in the switch. Reassemble in reverse order and plug in the switch try before you put it back in the panel. Good luck and pay attention to how it comes apart.

If you are looking for contacts look at the late 80s toyota trucks. I used these last time I had to replace mine. If I remember correctly a little bit of fileing is needed but it has been 7-8 years since I did it.

What Gloyale said also check the wires going into the maf. I had one that was broken just as it went into the plug under the rubber weather seal.

How did you check the flexplate for cracks. Pull the engine? That is the only way to tell for sure. The fluid could be coming from the front seal and the only way to change it is pull the engine or the tranny.

I would look at the flywheel ( flexplate ) just had one crack all the way around and the only reason it moved was the pilot on the converter was seizing in the crank. Yes they are rebuildable and are fairly easy to do but it has become extremely hard to source the hard parts ( I have done several over the years and all are still in use )

First thing to check on the 3at 4wd tranny is the solenoid that operates that pin. See if it is getting power when you push the 4wd button. If not trace it back till you find out why. If you have power the solenoid is bad, it just unscrews from the trans. The pin is part of the solenoid.