silverhelme

+1 for breaker bar and bump key I've been doing that for years and it works every time.

Please let us know how this turns out and what parts you use to make it work. This is something I have thought about doing to my brat but not having an ej handy I installed an ea82 and spfi that I had laying around. It runs better than the ea81 and was basicly a boltin job but now I am thinking about an ej and want to keep the 3at at least temporarily. I know that the 4eat would be better but unlike most people I have had fairly good luck with the 3at.

Maybe I should add WAshington after the city:lol: but yes I am in the US but just barely. Republic is in extreme NE Washington about 18 miles from the Canadian boarder.

Like I said if it is under warranty the only fix they have come up with is housing repacement and it is not a recall yet so you have to find a good service manager or area rep who knows what is going on. As far as how I can afford it like I said I've been a professonal mech for almost 40 years and currently make $35 an hr. When the warranty is up I will take over the maintenance on these. My wife is a Mental Health Therapist who makes $49 an hr and we both put 30 to 40 thousand a year on our cars. Personnelly I prefer to pick up older cars as projects to work on such as my Brat that I put an ea82 into, the 84 wagon that is getting an ej or my favorite the 86 Pontiac Fiero that I stuffed a 4.9 L Cadillac in. My 07 will be out of warranty this year and her 06 will be out late this year or early next so it might be time for a new one but I am getting ready to retire again so maybe I'll finish the 84 and drive it till I do.

After talking to a Subaru Rep about this I was informed that yes this is a problem and no they don't have a fix yet except to replace the whole headlight assembly. He said that in most cases this fixes the problem. So to anybody else out there that is having the same problem and the car is still under warranty you need to contact your dealer service manager or district rep to get anything done. They don't have a recall on this yet so if it is not still under warranty it is not covered. Also if you buy factory bulbs they are warrantied for 1 year from purchase.

I've been a professional mechanic for almost 40 years and yes I do own a GOOD DMM a Fluke and it reports good voltage at both the alt and the bat. My Snap on scanner reports the same voltage. I do use Latex gloves when handling the bulbs and use dielectric grease in the sockets. As far as I can tell no moisture is getting in. Partially what I am looking for is anyone else who is having the same problem. It seems kind of funny that I bought 2 brand new cars about a year apart and within 2 months the factory low beams went out on both cars and at least one bulb has gone out every 4 to 8 weeks and I need to see if it is a problem that needs to be taken to Subaru or if I am just having bad luck.

That was checked by the dealer although I may check it again myself. From what I can see the bulbs seem to overheat and I see on some of them an arc between the two terminals but most of them just melt out the side of the bulb.

I have two Imprezas that both have the same problem. They both blow the low beam bulb ( either side ) on a regular basis. They are an 06 and an 07 and I have tried factory Subaru and aftermarket bulbs to no avail. They tend to burn them out in 4 to 6 weeks on average. I have taken them to the dealer and they say that they can't find anything wrong that is obvious. I have checked the sockets and they still look good and the bulb is always replaced with a premium bulb and use dielectric grease in the socket. These are the standard Halogen headlights not the HID's. Has anyone else had the same problem? If so what did you do about it because I am getting tired of spending $15 to $25 every 4 to 8 weeks. Thank you in advance for any help.

Try Summit Racing. They have at least one made by Titan that is metric. Kind of expensive though about $105 each. This all is good info for when I do the rears on my Brat. I currently have all the parts I just have to find the time.

This is a swap I have considered being as my wife HAS to have an auto to be able to drive a car. As much as I like the 4eat ( I have 3 ) I have 3at's in the other 3. I must be an oddball because I have never had much of a problem with the 3at's. I know how to rebiuld them and also have one in my brat that is original at 200k and still going strong. The statement about more hp waking up the 3at imho is correct, I put an ea82 in the brat a while back and it feels like a different car ( I know only a few more hp but rev's better ) and gets 28 to 30 mpg. The ea82 into ea81 3at cars is a much easier swap then the stick. I have thought about doing the ej swap just to try it out and see if it will live under moderate driving but haven't found the time to do it lately because of work. I say go for it and if it doesn't live swap in a 4eat later if need be. The only extra cost is the adaptor and you can recoup that later if you do the 4 eat.

I have had good luck making them out of wood (hardwood not pine ). As far as a place to get clips try this http://autobodyclips.com

GD is probably correct an the temp sender and the idle. I ran into the same thing on my Brat when I swapped in an ea82 spfi. As a quick check unplug the 2 wire temp sender ( not the one wire for the gauge ) and see if it idles down. If it doesn't you probably have a vac leak somewhere but I would bet on the sender. The sender is located down and slightly forward of the gauge sender.

McBrat, tell your wife it is a great list. I sent it to my wife last night ( I am only home on weekends ) and she said she fell out of her chair laughing although she said there are to many tRUisms that apply to me in there. Thanks again. Bill

Yes any new info? I need one for an 84 t coupe.

The button can be disassembled and inside you will find a spring loaded piece of metal ( kind of looks like the flint for a zippo ) odds are the end of it is rounded. I've done it on two cars just file the end flat again and reassemble. Both of mine worked great after that.

Check the coolant temp sender. Mine had a similar problem since it was installed. Unplug it and see if it returns to normal idle if it does find a replacement. As an afterthought is your gas mileage not quite what you expect? If not that is probably the culprit barring vac leaks.

Bucky I love your coupe and hope you find out what the draw is and keep it. Because of something I ran into on my brat I am going to make a suggestion. Backwoodsboy said he wired your fan to the + side of your coil. Disconnect it and retest the draw. If he connected the wrong one from the relay that would explain the runon after shutting off the key. I had this happen on my brat when I was charging a jumper pack and left it plugged in and turned off the car. The pack provided power back through the system and it still ran for a second or two after the key was off. You may not be looking for a short but may be powering the system after shut off.

Well the short story is yes. The long story is I had to replace everything from the struts forward to do it. At that time I only had a coupe front end to rebuild the nose on my Brat after it was hit by a truck from the side.

I need a new one also. Count me in just set me know when and how much.

Most everybody here says you should use a Subaru stat. I,ve run into the same problem with napa stats as you are having. I use stant and haven't had much problem. I would use Subaru but it is usually a 3 hr drive to get to the nearest dealer for me.

I don't know for sure on Subarus but the domestics I have worked on need a special removal and installation tool. You may have to search a little bit or someone here may have a better way to remove the clutch pulley. I do know that the ea81 ac's use a tapered shaft so you may be able to do it like removing a small engine flywheel and apply preasure behind it and tap the center shaft with a hammer. I just pulled out my manual and yes it does need a puller.

It should not drain much if at all. I usually jack from the passenger side to help but don't forget to use jackstands. You might consider flushing the hose from the modulator to the engine with carb cleaner also.

CSK has it under part # FM2324. NAPA no longer lists a part# for it. Be sure and watch out for the little rod that comes out with it and make sure to reinstall it.