silverhelme

Bump for the weekend crowd.

Has anyone ever had an injector stick open and hydrolock there engine? This seems to have happened to my son's 84 turbo coupe. yesterday it died all of a sudden so he pulled over and tried to restart it. It would not crank over. This morning he tried it again in clear flood mode and it started but threw gas out the exhaust about 4 feet. The car has been having problems when he drives it. It will all of a sudden die and will only restart in clear flood mode. The compression is good and a new ( known good used ) ignition module was installed thinking it was ignition related. As a side note for Barracuda. Are all 4 injectors ea82 on this car?

You should be able to buy 4ga bulk at any NAPA store ( Probably any good parts store ) but I would suggest at least 2ga to handle that kind of amperage over that distance. The 2ga is also available at NAPA but you will probably have to order it, I did.

Bill check the front dampner and main seal. My 84 wagon had almost the exact symptoms as yours. It vibrated even when I first got it then all of a sudden started blowing oil from the front of the engine. Turned out that the dampner was cracked and ate the front seal. Good luck Bill

Had the same problem on my 84 wagon. Somewhere in the circut between the headlight and the switch it was shorted. I ended up just cutting the wire out at both end andputting in a new one. It took a little while with a multimeter to identify which wire it was coming out of the switch but solved the problem.

If the knuckle is damaged be sure and check the bottom of the strut. On the three that I have found to have this problem all three also had a small tweek in the bottom of the strut where it goes into the knuckle. Thankk you for going badk to the yellow print. My old eyes could not hardly read the blue.

We use grease on the tap and remove it, clean and regrease about every full turn. Slow but it traps 99% of the chips.

I used a carbed block on the last turbo rebuild. All I did was cap the port that goes to the rear vent. I have had no problems and no exessive oil usage. If I understand you correctly you are going to rebuild a non turbo block using turbo pistons which is what I did.

"for my wife ( no 5 spd she uses hand controls ) " This is the main reason I have to stay with an automatic.

The information is in a Hyanes manual. It might be in chiltons but I don't use them I use Aldata. It is easy to do but you do need a torque wrench and you are supposed to replaced the seal nut but I have never had one leak. Locate the adjustor, undo the nut, tighten the bolt to specified torque, back off bolt X number of turns hold and reinstall the nut. Sorry I can't be more specific but I am on a job 300 miles away from home but it takes longer to jack up the car and put it on jack stands than it does to adjust the band. Hope it help's.

A 4eat out of a turbo could be made to work I'm sure. but I have 3 different Subaru's with the 3at and none of the get less than 25 on the highway if the trans and motor are working right. You can get a lot of slippage if your 2-3 band is not ajusted properly. I have picked up and sold 3 cars with suposedly bad trans that just needed a fluid change and band ajustment to work right. The only drawback like you said is the rpm they run at speed.

And I already have the wiring from an 88 turbo to use for the trans so that would be a direct swap into the other car. As another side piece has anyone used the 3at behind the ej. I know nobody likes them but rather than beat and cut my Brat for a 4eat to fit and the fact that I can put them together to last would the adapter work for these?

That's what I have and that is the reason I was asking. The turbo is nice but has to many problems and quirks and I am getting tired of working on it. I (she ) want's something reliable while keeping the original car she likes. Wiring is not a problem ( I just finished a 4.9 cad swap into a 85 Fiero w/ caddy com ) and as a mechanic there is not much I can't do and already have most of the tools to set up diffs.

Just as a side question, could a person go the opposite direction and use the bell housing off an EJ on the turbo trans with the turbo diff to install a 2.2 in an 88? Are all the inputs to the trans comp electrical? I have a nice 88 body and would like to replace the original 3at with a 4eat for my wife ( no 5 spd she uses hand controls ) who loves her car but would like to have some more power.

I have had good luck with these guy's but I do replace the head and intake gaskets with felpro. http://www.rockerarmsupply.com. They can supply a kit with several options depending on what you want.

Had the same problem on my 87. Turned out to be carb iceing. Make sure that your air heater on the breather is working properly. It took me two winters to figure this out it always seamed like a bad fuel filter or pump but it turned out to be ice build up in the carb.

If it was cross threaded you will probably need to put a thread insert in it. I get mine from NAPA they have one that works well and they will know which one you need. They offer 3 different lengths and I have found that the 3/4 length works best. When you retap for the insert and you are doing it on the engine put grease on the tap. Back it out clean off the chips and grease every couple of threads and it will keep chips from getting into the cylinder.

As a mechanic and a person who drives 700 miles a week the biggest things you can do are a good tune, keep your tires properly inflated and your driving style. I drive an 88 t-wagon and get 29+ hiway and around 26 city with the above. I do agree with the plug wires but only every 2 or 3 tune-ups unless you notice an mpg drop. I have tested some of the so called mpg adders and have found little or no differnce. By the way that 29+ is going over 3 passes going home and back to work.

About half the hi mileage ea82s I see come into the shop are leaking at these seals. Do not try to replace the o-rings unless you are sure you can get it back together exactly the same as when you take it apart. If I am only replacing one I mark the case and the adjuster then count the number of turns it takes to remove it then reinstall it the same number of turns. In 20 years I have not had a bearing fail or gear noise doing it this way. The parts come seperately so if you plan on doing it order both. Only do ONE side at a time if you plane on replacing both sides.

Is it coming out of the seal or the bearing retainer? If it is the seal it is an easy fix. Just pull the axle, pry out the seal and carefully drive a new one in. If it is the oring around the axle retainer then it depends on how competent you think you are at removing it and getting you setting right when you reinstall it with a new o-ring and seal. Either way the parts are not that expensive.

Those plugs are supposed to be torqued to 46 to 54 Ft Lbs and yes you should replace the crush washer when you remove them although I have gotten away without doing it a couple of times but I did put silicone on the old washer.

Have you changed your themostat recently? If not it could be the same problem I had. I stuck about a quarter open and ran fine around town but on the hiway with the AC on it tended to run warm. I put in a NAPA stat and it still ran warm (new 2 core,water pump and fan clutch). I did this twice and finally put in a Stant and the problem went away. If it is the stat stay away from NAPA. On a side note NAPA has had so much problem with thier Victor gaskets they are switching to Fel-Pro. YEAH!

Are they carbed or FI? Either way you probably fouled the spark plugs. I see about 20 to 30 come into the shop every winter when it drops to -20 or so and for the most part you bring it into the shop warm it up and install new plugs. Sometimes you have to open the throttle all the way to clear out all the excess gas built up in the cylinders but for the most part they start right up.

Having just gone through most of what you are talking about I was suspecting a cracked turbo also and having a spare good one on hand I swaped it to no avail. I had already changed intake gaskets. I decided to pull the supected head but could find nothing wrong with the HG. I happened to be looking at the exhaust side and lo adn behold the dreaded exhaust crack. I had a spare good head to replace it and that solved the problem.

Yes it can be done at home. If you want to buy tools the only major thing you need is a small hydraulic press from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool ( around$75-$110 ) and the blocks that hold you knuckle. I know some people have driven them out with a large hammer and drift with varying sucsess but as a mechanic it is not something I would try except as a roadside repair. Be sure and rmember that the bearings come out the side that they are on and do not forget to put the spacer back in.