silverhelme

The question I have is if he was simply doing pads and rotors why did need to remove the axle and knuckle?

If I'm not mistaken that is the diagnostic test plug. Looks like the one I plug my Snapon scanner into.

The kits you are looking for are the EA81 lift kits. They are basically the same for all body style in the EA81 cars. They are available in 2/4/6 inch lift.

I've been running my Brat without a resonator for over 20 years. Not a problem. Unless you are doing a full on resto forget it and replace it with pipe.

I've actually had to do both sides at different times over the last two months. One I was able to use a method similar to what el_freedom said and the other had to be pressed apart it had seized so bad.

You are correct. I forgot because I installed the whole door with wiring so mostly it was plug and play.

This was basically why I did it. I already had a good ea82 spfi and a good wiring harness out of a wreck and could not find a decent ea81 so I swapped them. Mine was an automatic so that simplified the swap.

I've done it and yes it is tight but no frame mods. On mine all I had to do was move the brake proportioning valve to clear the distributor but mine was an automatic. I used the es81 radiator and spiced two ea82 lower hoses to fit but it would be much easier to have a radiator shop put an ea82 lower fitting on it. I installed on a spfi engine but a carved engine would be much easier.

Just about all the turbo models 83-84 had them. I got mine off of a 84 turbo coupe. They were an option on most of the ea81 cars. I found that most of the wires that plug into the mirrors was already installed so all I had to do was plug and play.

It says they are still available here https://www.amazon.com/OSC-Cooling-Products-98792-Heater/dp/B004KMPYO6/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru|13&Model=Loyale|65&Year=1992|1992&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=12&vehicleType=automotive

Flush it well and pressure test it if you can. Stop leak should not be a problem in the radiator with a good flush.

With exchange rate it says it's only $460 shipped.

If you start looking for a replacement tank and eventually want to ej it be on the lookout for an 83-84 turbo tank. It's already setup for fuel injection.

Does the tank actually have holes in it because of the rust? If not I would just clean it up paint and seal the outside then flush the inside. Some people get away with sealing the inside also but that seems to be hit or miss whether it works right and doesn't clog everything up. If the tank is not salvageable new parts are no longer available. You will have to source a decent used tank which are getting hard to find. I have heard of some people trying to fit an aftermarket fuel cell but have never seen a finished setup .

Because I know that many of you don't look at the "wanted" section generally I'm putting a spot here also. I am in need of a rear inner axle socket to borrow or buy. Please see wanted section.

Sorry, I'm on the road. Yes it fits in the stock location but it takes a little fab work for the mount and lines. It's been several years since I replaced the stock spfi pump with the carter, so I can't remember exactly.

I started with the pump from a spfi Loyale and when that failed I replaced it with a late 80's f150 external pump CARTER P74028.

Nice write up about the belts but I think being as he mentioned the green connectors he is referring to ignition timing. If you don't have one already a copy of the service manual can be found here ; http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/. Just to check the timing you don't need to connect them. As to your question have you tried restarting it after it dies?

It is added between existing starter solenoid wire and starter. See this post and scroll to post ten by jono for the fix.

Do a search for starter relay mod. I did it to my Brat and never had another problem. It's been ten years.

Is it temperature sensitive or does it happen all the time?

This is a 13 year old post so I doubt he still has one. You could post in the wanted section where it belongs. I'm sure someone still has one laying around.

Is your '84 original? If so and it has an automatic it has hydraulic lifters which can be replaced in car per the manual. I'm not sure about mechanical lifters it doesn't say in the manual that they can be removed in car. It's usually not a good idea to run new lifters on an original cam. Is you mechanic adjusting them properly? If they have locking tabs they are hydraulics if not they should be mechanical.

I don't know who did your exhaust but mine is tucked up just like the original. I didn't lose any ground clearance at all. Sorry I can't get pictures but I only had to make three cuts and welds to make it fit. I was even able to hammer and reinstall the shields.

EJ it and keep the 3at if it is in good shape, at least for the short term. I've been running that setup for over two years with no problems but I don't have a lead foot and don't offroad. Maintain the trans properly and if it breaks replace it with a dual range.