silverhelme

Does it have a 3 speed or a 4 speed automatic?

It shouldn't really matter as long as nothing is rubbing. If you are OCD and can't stand that they are on the wrong side then put the spring on the shoes first then carefully set the shoes on the backing plate and secure the retaining pins. Either way like I said as long as nothing is rubbing just do whatever is easiest.

I have tested distributors in Subaru's by just plugging it in, running a ground wire from the case to the disty, turning on the ignition and spinning it by hand. It has to be grounded to the engine for this to work and a simple clip on jumper wire will work.

Double post.

Numbchux has some information here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160207-automatic-ej22-brat-swap/ as far as how to get the axles to play nice but you will still have to deal with the problem that the trans is bigger and hits in the trans tunnel. It might be solved with a big hammer or tunnel surgery. As far as the driveshaft, I think you can use the one out of an '88 or newer GL10 turbo. I think the back of the EJ 4eat is basically the same as an EA82 4eat as far as splines so it should fit. I am thinking about this swap also when my 3at dies just to get the overdrive gear and lockup converter and have gathered most of the parts that I need except the axle stubs for the transmission. I will be following along to see how it goes.

I think the part # I sent you is wrong and should be 410517000. I found a couple online but be prepared for sticker shock if you can find anyone with some still in stock.

I would say that if you want a reliable engine you only have a couple of options. One: new cam, new lifters and a proper breakin. Two: a complete used set with all the lifters in there original locations. You can substitute a reground cam for a new one but still would need new lifters and I don't know if lifters can be reground to put a new crown on the base. Here is a good article that explains some of the reasoning involved. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/check-flat-tappet-lifter-crown-lobe-taper-lifter-bores/

I'd chip in a couple of buck to keep a good resource for information. We have lost a lot over the past few years.

I'm not for sure where you can source the lifters but if you install new lifters you should install a new cam also, If you don't odds are you will destroy the cam is short order if you mix and match. I have had several of the hydro motors and have had no problems with the hydro lifters, so what I would do is find the cleanest and best looking set with the least wear on the cam and install them as a set with the cam they are worn into and with the lifters in the correct positions.

I still visit on occasion if I can't locate my swap manual or if I am on someone else's computer showing them information. You were one of my main sources on information when I did my Brat swap.

If the owner knows nothing about transmissions then they may have thought it was a five just by feel. It will shift through all four gears then hit converter lockup which can feel like a fifth gear.

I knew i'd seen a write up on how to convert to 23 spline some time ago but my searches didn't turn up anything ( probably wrong search terms ). I've been thinking about changing to the 4eat to get the overdrive and lockup when the 3at goes. Do you have any more info on this or can you point me to the write up? As far as this guy's swap I think there was one in Australia that was finished also.

If I remember correctly from what I have read ( I haven't yet done this myself ) the 4eat can be put into pre '88 ea82 cars with just some healthy use of a large hammer but I don't know about ea81 cars. The tunnel was enlarged in '88 to fit the 4eat that was used behind the turbo engine. Like I said that is not the biggest problem, it is the axles. In an ea82 you can use the stock axle to swap in pre '88 cars but there is no option for ea81 cars other than cut and weld or have a new shaft made or new spine machined on an old shaft to accept the correct inner joint.

I'll have to order some of these and try it. I've been looking for something for several years that was an easy fix.

Your biggest problems will be tunnel fitment and axles. You may be able to get enough clearance for the bigger 4eat by using a big hammer but I think I have read that you need to modify the tunnel by cutting and fitting. The axles are another story. I don't know of any off the shelf axles that will fit. All the ones I have heard of involve either splicing two halves together or having a custom shaft made and using the correct inner and outer ends. I keep thinking about trying to work this out but the 3at I'm currently using is still going strong after 2 years. The only thing I miss is the OD 4th gear and lock up converter for gas mileage as the 3at only gets about 20 mpg in town and 28 highway with the 2.2. The rest is as Gary said, just don't trim out the transmission wiring when you make the harness for the swap.

Best to find a way to vent the tank. When I did mine it pressurized the tank enough that it swelled and rubbed the axle creating a hole in the tank. I ended up drilling a very small hole in the gas cap to alleviate the problem.

You may be able to find one used but I can no longer find a new one. Last one I purchased was a couple of years ago. Several places have the left (drivers) side but all show as discontinued for the right side lens. You may find one on Ebay or on this site from some of us that hoard them ( I don't have one ).

You might not want to get to focused on the ignition when it could be a carb problem. When I worked in shops I had one that gave me the same symptoms but it tuned out to be the idle cut off valve had gone bad while I was doing a tune up on the car. It would run if I kept it over about 1200 rpm because it was tipped into the main fuel at that time but as soon as it tried to idle it died.

Did you do a rebuild or a tuneup? I've never done a rebuild that I didn't remove the distributor. It's almost impossible not to pull it and split the case.

The service manual says to inspect every 30k but gives a footnote that under heavy service to replace every 30k. I tend to err on the side of caution and change at 30k and my #AT's seem to last longer than most peoples. You don't need to replace the filter unless you suspect contamination as it is only a screen anyway, just drain and replace the fluid.

I think what he is asking is if he will have more power using a carb if he uses the SPFI block with stock carb setup. The short answer is yes but probably not enough to really notice. I would probably pick the motor with the best, most even compression and the least mileage. Best way to get the extra power is to swap in the complete SPFI setup including wiring and ECU.

I think a late 80's early 90's Cadillac V8 with an S10 5 speed would be a light setup. The engine is aluminum block and the S10 trans would let you use a tranfercase for 4x4 with a solid axle front end. I used this engine to replace the four banger in my Pontiac and it only weighs about 40 lbs more than the original 4.

Last time I had one leak that bad it was from the front seal. The shaft on the dampener had cracked and torn up the seal. It might be the oil pump seal also but that would be unusual.

There are some differences in things like the plug for the distributor or engine bay plug shapes but I think the ECU plugs are all the same.

If I am not mistaken the pin out is pretty much the same for all of them except the turbo. I do have one for an '89 I could send you if you want.