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Everything posted by silverhelme
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3rd cracked windshield in 2 years..
silverhelme replied to Subasaurus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I replaced the one in my brat that had been cracked for 15 years ( they don't push cracked windshields around here because of all the dirt roads ) and had a rock chip within a week. I did a chip repair and am not going to replace it unless it cracks out. -
BRAT taillight lenses, anywhere?
silverhelme replied to musubk's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The right hand side is still available here http://www.subaru-parts-dealer.com/ for $97 and the lens for both the left and the right. I ordered the lenses last year and thy had both in stock. If your housing is in good shape it is easy to change the lens but you will need to make your own seal if yours is bad (I used foam door seal). -
I may need to flush the fuel rails as I am seeing garbage on the ones I am pulling out. As far as a local shop, there is only one and I used to work there. I was the second best mechanic there, the best mechanic and I retired and the 2 kids that got hired I wouldn't trust to change a tire much less work on a fuel system.
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When I installed the motor it had 2 dead cylinders that turned out to be stuck injectors. when I started hunting for injectors i found that the ones I have are the expensive ones. Now I have one more that is giving me problems and was just wondering if the manual ones interchange,they look the same except for the pintle. NAPA wants $134 and the cheapest I can find elsewhere is about $75 for rebuilt.
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The '91 Legacy uses 2 different types of injectors, one for automatics and one for manual transmissions. Does anyone know if they are interchangeable? The one for autos is about twice as expensive as the manual and from the pictures I have seen they are the same except for the pintle that covers the tip. Anyone know if the manuals can be used in place of the autos without changing out the fuel lines?
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Have you actually disassembled the pump and checked for scoring on the faces?
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It sounds like a candidate for a relay mod for the solenoid.
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I would assume that with the length of the shaft and the amount of fore and aft slop built into it, it is because of movement. I would imagine that there is some flex as well, which would actually shorten the shaft minutely each time it is used as well as lengthening when it is shut off.
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Do you have any idea what year and model Pulsar that equates to in the US?
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As long as you have it out and easy to reach be sure and adjust the 2-3 band. It's easier to get to on the bench but not terribly hard in the car.
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If it was me I'd put the diff off of the no reverse trans on the one with the bad diff with the shaft that has intermediate wear. I've pulled the trans changed it over and reinstalled in the car in a little over 4 hours. Hardest thing is saving the gasket between the trans and the diff.
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I have found that with a well maintained trans in my Brat I get 29-30 mpg highway and 25 in town. It didn't change when I changed engines to an 1.8 ea82 SPFI but I tend to stay on top of tuneups.
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MSD Atomic EFI, Any Experience?
silverhelme replied to Mikldom's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Probably not a good replacement as they are designed for a minimum of a small block chev and probably flow at least 600cfm. That is way more than a 1.8 Subaru needs. Then you have the problem of adapting the 4 barrel design to out manifolds, they are made to replace a Holley 4 barrel. -
As I said you can just change the shaft although I would drain it and pull the pan then remove the transfer case and check the pump. You need to disassemble the pump anyway and and look for scoring inside. I generally don't just reassemble the without I installing new clutches and bands while I'm in there. They are an easy transmission to work on, similar to a Ford C4 reversed. I think Rockauto still has most of the parts for them.
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Be sure and document how you do the extra injector. This is an interesting build although I wonder if the same thing could be done with an ej22.
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SPFI factory training manual and other stuff
silverhelme replied to Crazyeights's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm sorry to hear you are not going to post these in PDF. I tend to collect as much information as I can so that I can so that I can pass it on to help others with there Subarus. -
Yes it can be pulled and replaced without any problem once the engine or trans is removed and the converter is taken out. Just be sure and reset the converter correctly when it goes back. A stripped pump shaft would cause your problem but it also could be the splines in the converter or the pump. I've seen them fail for no known reason but a seized pump would cause it.
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Brat rear-ended! Need rear taillight lens
silverhelme replied to Bratmobile's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Do you need the lens or the whole assembly? If you only need the lens try these http://www.partswebsite.com/subarucatalog/?i=2&make=153&model=2028&year=1983&type=parts&act=new_subcategory_hp§ion=137&catid=30201&subcatid=30734&fl_id=49. I ordered a left and a right a year ago and they work fine. -
Ea82 rear wheel bearing tool?
silverhelme replied to mykingcrab's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have had some that came apart with punch and a couple that took a 3 foot breaker to get loose. Sir tools used to make one under the part #SU 022 and I think OTC used to make one but I could not find it in a quick search. I had a buddy make one from a bad 1/2 drive socket and a couple of pieces of flat stock welded to it. It worked just as well as factory. -
4 lug redrill for my loyale
silverhelme replied to Derekstanelle's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I am not for sure why this has never become a popular modification. It seems like it should be fairly straight forward job with the only thing that needs to be farmed out is the lathe work to mill the hub for the center of the wheel. Maybe someone needs to document it well enough so that anyone can do it ( lots of photos ).