silverhelme

I wouldn't redrill the rims but you could redrill the hubs and drums to 114. Its been done before with good results.I believe it was Loyale 2.7 Turbo who did it.

I think I would have to agree with Gloyale that it is probably a fan problem. When you are moving you provide air movement over the radiator fins to cool the motor ( the fans do absolutely no good over about 30 MPH ) and this is what the fans should provide when you are sitting at idle. I have seen clogged fins but usually this manifests as overheating at all speeds. Check first that the fan(s) are coming on at idle or if they are wired constant that they actually come up to speed. As Gloyale said the fan should be wired through a relay to get full power from the battery. You might check the output from the alternator or check for a weak battery.

I used ITM ( I think that's right ) for all my parts and gaskets but order intake and exhaust from Subaru. I order from a place called Rockerarm supply in Spokane but it is also available on ebay but like I said the ea81 doesn't seem very sensitive to aftermarket rebuild parts. I have several running around here that I have done in the past.

As far as gaskets you should be able to order for an '83-'84 and the gaskets should be the same for pretty much any year. I have found over theyears that ea81's are not a sensitive as the others to which head gasket you use but hate aftermarket intake gaskets. NO the ea81 and ea82 heads are not the same!

That is exactly what it is. It will be nearly impossible to reassemble on the car.

The only way you can get gas mixed with you oil is if an injector is stuck open and bleeding gas when you shut down or a cylinder is not firing while you are running ( less likely ). It may or may not have anything to do with the problem of not revving but it is the only way to get fuel mixed in the oil.

Go for it. I've thought a few times about stuffing a 4.9 Cadillac in one with a 5 speed from an S10. I already have one in my '85 Pontiac Fiero in place of the old duke 4 banger. The Cad is aluminum block and actually the same weight as the duke. It make for a snappy car.

I didn't read back through this whole thing but it sounds like you may have a bad injector or two that are sticking open. A quick way to check is hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how fast your fuel pressure bleed down. If it is quick then you have a stuck injector or more.

An FI pump is definitely a different pump from the carb pump. It runs a much higher pressure than carb pump.

He's running a maf so you can assume SPFI or turbo MPFI. Check your temp sensor ( the one for FI not gauge ) most of the time this is the hot start problem.

Very seldom will you need a ridge reamer and I use a brush hone rather than a standard hone, it gives a better finish in the cylinders. You will need a ring compressor though.

One of the other sites I belong to has a bad seller section to report deals like this. The section is moderated so that it can't be used to just bash anyone you might not like, It might be something for the moderators to think about.

The EA82 does fit between the rails of a gen 2 Brat but be sure and install new valve cover gaskets before you drop it in. If you put it in with a 3at auto all you have to do is move the proportioning valve to clear the distributor but with a stick it hits the hill holder. As was said you will need a cross member from a turbo car or Brat. Be prepared to do or have done a wiring harness.

I'm just over in Republic and will take it off your hands if you find you don't like it Enjoy the car and to me the automatic is a plus.

He said he is using an EJ trans case. + 1 for jack up the trans.

Sounds like you have an ea82 sitting around and want to replace the engine in your brat with it because you can't find a decent ea81. I did this 3 years ago ( SPFI ea82 ) in an auto brat as a temporary fix until I could afford to change to ej22. The only real problem with install was (for the automatic) I had to move the proportioning valve and for the 4 or 5 speed you will have to move the hill holder also. Everything else was normal engine swap stuff (hoses, fuel, etc.). Other than the wiring I had the swap done in one day but I had several parts cars to pull pieces from. Thanks to GD's write up I did the wiring the next day and had it running that weekend. If you do it reseal the motor before it goes in especially valve covers as it is to tight to remove them after it goes in. That said I currently have an ej22 on the engine stand being resealed to put in it.

According to the manual and my experience with this transmission you need to adjust the band. It is fairly easy to do and is supposed to be done every 60k as part of the regular maintenance schedule.

I'm retired now but in my own 2006 Impreza I still run 5-30 Syntec but I know how it was maintained and what the current oil pressure is. The car has almost 200k on it and the oil pressure is still within factory spec's. That said I always based my oil recommendations to customers on mileage, known history, etc. If the Impreza was a customer car with normal wear I would recommend changing to a 10w40 or even 15w40. I tend to recommend synthetic oil if you can afford it and are willing to stop ALL oil leaks. I have seen almost identical cars go about twice the service mileage using synthetic oil. I generally don't see much difference in fuel mileage but I get about 3 mpg more than a friend who has the same car and uses regular oil straight from the Subaru dealer ( I have always serviced my own ).

I want a picture of the wheel stand when it does hook up.

I don' know what the mpfi manifold for an ea82 looks like but that is not an ea82 turbo intake manifold. Also, what did they do with the disty?

It does just unscrew but watch out for a short rod that will come out with it ( or not ). I lost it the first time I ever did one about 20 years ago and had a heck of a time figuring out what was wrong till I found a diagram.

There should be no fluid in the vacuum lines. The vacuum modulator has gone bad and is allowing fluid to be pulled into the engine.

My wife has to have an auto because of physical disabilities so that is why I keep the auto. When the EJ goes in the 4eat will probably go in with it. As much as most everyone here is down one autos, it is really each to there own. Just realize that it would probably make much better sense to buy a car with an auto rather than change over because of the work involved and the fact that the best way to do it is to buy a complete parts car to do the swap.

The 4eat will fit your car but was only used in turbo GL's and although the trans control can be made stand alone you would have to adapt some different sensors to make it work. I am sure it can be done with some research and time. I have thought about this for my Brat when I swap in the EJ.

I have had new senders read wrong, usually on the low side but I did have one that blew the gauge out the top. I went back and got a replacement and it worked fine.