Subafreak

I figured it was a fun side conversation to keep the thread alive.

Last time i was in NJ i got out and pumped my own. Since i was wearing my tech uniform no one seemed to notice, except the other customers that were waiting for me to come pump there gas and got all confused looking when i got back in my car and drove away. lol.

Damn she buffs out pretty nice!

Did you rescue that from a scrap yard? I could swear I've seen that brat in a pic somewhere in a scrap yard.

F.I. Is cool, I swapped an EA82 turbo into my 81 wagon because I got so sick of trying to get that carb to run rite. There's no argument here about what is the superior fuel metering device. If carbs were better car manufactures would still be using them. Lol. But lets stick to the carbs here. I'm still curious about the different types of webers. The DGVA,s GTFO,s OMFG,s and all those other ones. What is the differences?

Looking forward to the thrill!

Exactly. The new outback is about the size of a TriBeCa. Did the TriBeCa come standard with a 2.5L? No! Yes the new legacy has alot of room inside and that's really the only positive about it over the last generation. I don't like headlights that stay on all the damn time! But all the new Subarus are like that now, and that's really the only fancy pants thing the car has that they try to pass off as luxury. Lol.

Now that.....is a good answer. We gotta get these things on the dyno!

It seems safe to assume the biggest killer of the hitachi,s is the throttle shaft bushings. Once those are worn out theres nothing you can do to get it to run right, and thats the moment i could see most people running for the weber. Now i imagine like most upgrades just slapping a weber on your car isnt gonna give it much more power without some head work or a cam. Are most webers a bit to much for a stock EA71 or EA81 out of the box? I would guess thats why most people have reduced fuel economy and some over rich conditions with the webers? Also why are there so many different types of webers that we could use on our cars? Is one type better for certain aspects of your intended goal with the car?

I would say 2012 impreza wagon for fuel economy or 2012 Forester for utility. The 6 speed in the new Legacy is awfull. Test drive em all you will see. I have high hopes for the FB chaindrive motor. So far they have been pretty good. The new Legacy seems to have to many little issues, but it is to early to tell with the new impreza. Im not crazy about all the looks of the impreza but i do like what they have done with the car overall.

Ditto on the slow jet. I pulled the top off my carb 3 times befor I realized there was an access hole there to clean it out. I kept getting microscopic debri stuck in it when I first got my 74 going. Haven't had a problem with it since it's been run, but it doesn't take much to plug it up.

I suppose a better comparison would be pre-feed back hitachi,s. Any carb that tries to work off an O2 sensor was never a good idea. The carb in my 85 Brat ran perfect, the carb in my 81 wagon fought me to death, the carb in my first 78 Brat ran amazing and got unbelievable gas mileage, the carb in my 79 brat ran a bit rich and backfired alot. Now the carb in my 74 sedan is the first one I've ever really taken apart and seriously rebuilt, It a combination of 74 and 78 parts on an EA71 and it's the best running carb I've ever had on a suby. Perfect idle functions, good power, and good fuel economy. Admittedly I'm no expert carb tuner by any stretch of the imagination, this is the first one I've ever tried to really learn, and I've rebuilt alot of different carbs and yes comparatively the hitachi is somewhat mind boggling to understand. So I guess what I'm trying to decide is if properly understood could a well tuned hitachi or two perform as well or better than a weber? And what type of weber? There seems to be so many different kinds.

Are they all bad? Why is everyone so hot for a weber? I hear some negative things about webers too. Feel free to rant and rave.

They usually contain the diagram for all of them. If it says body on the manual it should have what you need in it.

There's ussualy always a few on eBay.

Really!? Brand new Subarus of that time period? I've never experienced that problem with my 74, but my 78 would do it occasionally.

I have heard about this. I found mine locally but I considered checking out the ones on car part, then I figured I already got a spare so I'll leave the other ones up for grabs.

Lol. We know how much luck I was haveing finding one of those.

Lol. I had a hard enough time finding these. God only knows where to find the 1400 5speeds.

Hi Stanley. I like all your mud flaps.

Ah yes. 77 I assume it has the same internal shifter mechanism?

Now to get to work on the 5speed. This tranny only has 40k on it and the shifter seal already looked like it was leaking. So I'm gonna tear it apart and see if I can find new seals for it and check out the conditions of the internals. When I first took off the tail shaft housing my heart sank. It looked like water had been sitting in it and it was all rusty. Looks scary. But it turns out that it was just discoloration of the gear oil. I was told it had been sitting on the shelf since 82 and it was full of gear oil. The gear oil was turning into a gel like substance but it wipes rite off and everything was nice and clean under it. I tool most of these pics to help remind me how to put it back together. The reverse idler. Shift rods with all associated pins and spring. So that pretty much leaves me with two empty case halves to get cleaned up. More to come.

The 4 speed shifter won't work at all on the 5 speed unfortunately. But I still had to take it apart to check it out. Here's a nice exploded veiw of all the parts. You'll notice the electrical switch that goes inside the tube. I haven't confirmed it yet but I assume it has something to do with the back up lights. So here's a little step by step of the reassembly. First we put the switch back in the shift rod and hold it in place with the little screw, then secure the wire with the little rubber bands. Then install the shift rod into the support tube and slide the shift arm pivot tube and dampener weight into the back side. Then install the roll pin to hold it all together. Now you can see the hole where the bottom of the shift lever will sit. Finally insert the shift lever and secure it with the upper pivot bolt. All set to go. Now that it's all set I'll stick it on a shelf to collect dust because I'm not useing it for this conversion.

Finally found a 5speed for my sedan. Two of them actually. So now it's time to start the conversion to better highway speeds and fuel mileage! I pulled the 1400 4speed out of my 73 coupe so I could get an idea of what I gotta modify to put the 5speed in my car. Now quite a few differences. The 5speed has a bigger bell housing for the 1600 motor, this is not a problem since I'm already running a 1600, it just means I can use the correct bell housing now. The 5 speed is decently longer than the 4speed but the mount sits in the same location so that's not a problem either. The most interesting difference is the shifter mechanism. As you can see the 4speed shifter clamps directly to the tail housing in a solid tube and all the linkages are inclosed. This whole tube goes into a cavity in the floor of the car and is sealed with a rubber boot. It's actually a pretty good set up with only 2 pivot points to where out. Now I know why the shifter in my 74 is so tight.