cubastreet

Make sure it's sparking on the compression stroke too, not the exhaust stroke.

Just spotted this on trademe in New Zealand. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Specialist-cars/Competition-cars/photos/a-58680912/p-22367341.htm Looks like fun!

195k - another few thou and it'll be run in. GO HARD!!! :burnout:

I like the stripe, not sure if I'd bother with the tyres or tint myself but they look ok

Thanks for the offer, hopefully I'll be able to find something a little closer though. There are loads of gen 2s in NZ very cheap but I think most of the gen 1s are right down south. Here's a pic of the damage:

Yeah cheerz I've been keeping an eye on trademe since I got the ute at christmas but gen 1s are pretty few and far between. There's nothing older than about '85 in the scrapyards around wgtn either. I think most of them rusted away a few years ago.

On my way home today I was going up a narrow winding hill, a woman was coming down too fast in her people mover. She slammed on the anchors, slid kinda sideways and totalled my front fender and door. If anyone in NZ knows where I can get a driver's fender and door please let me know; there's a bit of a dent behind the door which could be fixed but the other parts are totalled.

The new aston martin does that. At low revs it runs a regular exhaust then at something like 4k a big valve opens up to turn it into a straight-thru pipe!

No? how about fuel pressure, injector pulse widths, ignition advance? Not covered that in all your experience? I don't know anything about your cpu, but if you don't reprogram it when you heavily modify an engine, you're missing out on a whole lot of cheap power, not to mention risking running it lean. As for bragging rights, I've heard a lot of people bragging about how much power they reckon they're getting out of their EAs, 150hp on a NA engine is a number I've heard many times, and I know enough to know how much you have to tune an EA to get 150 NA. Read: A lot.

weird - so many people with the all the time and $$$ to get an ea to ~150hp but not an extra half day and couple a hundred bucks to tune it.

I can't understand people who spend a lot of time/money building an engine then don't stick the car on a dyno. you'll get plenty more power out of it if you set up the carb/efi and disty curve propery on a dyno so why not? doing it by trial and error is so hit & miss.

I wanna stick a twin-screw on my brat, but the cheapness of a little rootes from a toyota engine may mean i'll end up with that instead.

There's a PDF of the factory service manual floating around somewhere, search for that. Also the how to keep your subaru alive PDF. Good luck with the rebuild, cleanliness and order are of paramount importance. It only takes one bit of machining swarf to get into the oil flow and then into one of your main bearings to ruin your whole rebuild. A mate of mine had just reinstalled and engine in his escort when he (fortunately) noticed one of the oil channel plugs on his workshop floor. Luckily he saw this before he cranked it, but still had to pull and partially disassemble the engine.

Maybe my pistons'll do fine then, unless I find one at a junkyard to pull apart.

Wasn't that Colin McRae? BTW, cams and forced induction aren't the only ways to increase power. Other ways include: ram air (at speeds around 100MPH+), cold air intake, intake runner tuning, carb tuning, modification or upgrade, inlet manifold gasflowing, head porting (inlet/exhaust ports, combustion chamber shape etc.), valve modification/replacement, increase CR, optimise timing, extractors, insulating extractors to retain exhaust heat/velocity, free-flowing exhaust...... I'm sure the list could go on and on. Granted, most of the benefits of tuning an engine for the road are had at the low-mid torque range, peak power is almost never used in daily driving. The worst thing you can do to a daily driver is to optimise it for to HP - huge carbs, wild cam, 3" exhaust headers etc... You'l end up with a car that doesn't do anything until it hits 4K RPM.

Who let the aussies on here? If you want you can PM me your email address and I can ask him to contact you.

Possibly, but the stuff is located at the bottom of the south island, i'm at the bottom of the north island and waimaks is much further north. shipping between s.i. and n.i is usually pretty expensive. there are a couple of people around here from much closer to gore though who may be a better bet or you could ask the guy to ship directly. I wouldn't mind a set of ea71 pistons for my ea81 rebuild!

I just spotted 2 ea71s and a set of mags for sale. Also some Leone doors and things, all the same guy. The ea71s are both twin carb ones. might be a good score for someone. They are I think in Gore.

Has anyone in NZ (or aus) bought stuff from the parts bin? Their prices for OEM gasket sets are good. If so, what sort of time did it take? I'm not in any great hurry but don't want to be waiting three months for parts. Those repco ring and bearing prices seem reasonable, I might price up some SPFI pistons while I'm there.

Damn you get all the good subie deals around chch and central otago. I did see an absolute mint gen2 brumby the other night when i was in gisborne though, with new warrant for $2K - seemed pretty reasonable considering what people are asking on trademe. Mine's pretty knocked about but I really like the gen1 styling over gen2. are those 14" WRC rims? I've got a set of them, fthanks to the NZ rally.

Hi, does anyone have a good (cheap) supplier for EA81 gaskets and bearings in NZ? The local subaru dealer is very helpful and put together a list of all the parts needed as they no longer do a rebuild kit, and while none of the parts seemed excessively expensive individually, they add up to about $500. Piston ring sets were pretty dear too at $278. Jeremy

That's if it's an electronic disty, if it's points, you don't need a power supply. Pretty sure you don't need a separate ignitor but if it's a points disty it might be a good idea.

Hi, I don't actually know the the EA82, but I can tell you that you need an earth connection to the engine or disty and power to the electronic unit in the disty also. Hope this helps.

Keeping the original engine saves the headache of an engine swap anyday. HOWEVER, why not a V8 RWD conversion?

Sounds like it could be electrical. Check the plugs/leads/rotor/cap/timing/points if you have them.