cubastreet

That low pressure/ high pressure pump setup is pretty common, with a surge tank added it's an ideal setup. I don't think the tank is well baffled which is fine when running a carb but can cause problems with efi when you need constant fuel pressure.

https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=L-2CU6eUI6iksQS5jIDICg&url=http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EA_engine&cd=1&ved=0CCUQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNG0LjRo0KAMi-GNerOhg1c83WXGCQ

You'll still need the rotor with that. Probably cheaper anD easierer to use a stock Subaru electronic distributor which does just the same thing. Or to go distibutorless, use one of the kits that use the Ford edis modules such as megajolt

Beetles were never known for their cornering ability with the stock engines (~40HP)....

I've swapped to electronic dizzy and performance cool on my ea81. It runs beautifully but the distributor was the biggest improvement by far.

81 nz assembled brumby 555055

You have to locate the one that's already in your car, under the dash somewhere is where they normally hang out. Then you need to order a relay with the same plug as your original one. The one I linked to looks pretty standard but you'll need to check. Pop in the electronic relay and you should be good to go.

No a resistor just wastes the energy by turning it to heat. You want something like this http://m.ebay.com/itm/150619347919 Don't know why your brake lights aren't working, could be that the sockets are wired the wrong way. This doesn't matter for incandescent bulbs but leds only conduct electricity in one direction.

For turn signals you would need to run an electronic blinker. The oe one requires the correct current draw or it won't work. This is why it doesn't work when one bulb blows.

Yeah I made one fit to my gen1 brumby a few years ago, it wasn't difficult

I haven't done it yet, but power lock conversions are simple for this style of door. the rod for the lock mechanism runs the length of the door so you just need to mount the actuator somewhere along it's path and clamp it to the rod. Similar to this: http://www.tercelreference.com/articles/power_door_lock_installation/power_door_lock_installation.html

Another option - rebuild it yourself. Most of the time it's just worn out brushes, which are available cheaply and very easy to change.

I remember having this problem when I installed my weber, I think it turned out to be the idle mixture screw.

With no cowling and the intercooler almost touching the firewall...

Don't know about a grant, but this momo one fits, maybe you could adapt it: http://www.crowderscustomizing.com/MOMO-7301-3-p/momo_7301_3.htm

Wondering how that intercooler gets any airflow there?

an expansion chamber first returns a negative pressure wave that helps draw out exhaust gases and also helps pull up the fresh charge from the crankcase. Some of the fresh charge is often also sucked out the exhaust port It then returns a positive pressure wave that stuffs the charce back onto the cylinder just before the port closes, giving a supercharging effect. The pressure waves travel at the speed of sound, so this supercharging effect normally happens over a fairly narrow rev range, giving the famous 2 stroke powerband. It doesn't turn it into a 4 stroke, the engine still fires once every revolution. You could probably set up a single baffle cone to aid in extraction of exhaust gases but you'd really need one per cylinder which isn't really feasible with siamese exhausts.

OK thanks, hope things are ok for you there

I did two things to get more leg room on my 81 brat: 1) First I removed the plastic accelerator pedal, now it's just the metal stub. This allows you to stretch the accelerator leg out a little and move it around which helps on the longer trips. 2) I found a momo wheel from the local dump shop for $5 and eventually picked up a momo 7301 boss kit for a reasonable price. The wheel is slightly smaller and adds a bit of offset which gives a little more room.

Hi I haven't been on here much this year, my brat has been parked up. please let me know if you have any left over, I'm keen (if shipping to New Zealand isn't crazy expensive) thanks

Take off the air cleaner and look down the carb barrels and make sure the butterflies are closing properly. An air leak can sometimes make an engine idle high, but probably not 2500-3000 RPM. Also make sure the choke isn't jammed on, this could explain both the high idle and smoke. Once you've got it running right it will be awesome so don't give up!

What colour is the smoke? white smoke - water blue smoke - oil black smoke - running rich could be bad carb/inlet manifold gasket leaking water into the inlet.

mine's still sitting in the shed awaiting fitting. You need the ea82 clutch plate to go on the transmission. You may be able to use the ea71 pressure plate and flywheel but I'm going with EA82 stuff. For output, you'll probably need to make up some custom inner CVs with EA82 outer cups and EA71 internals. The transmission will probably need custom mounts and you'll probably have to 'adjust' the holes in the floor for shifter.

Not true, as increases are exponential area = pi x r squared so for the hitachis (26/30) 3.14 x 13 x 13 = 530 square millimetres for the primary choke 3.14 x 15 x 15 = 706 for the secondary = 1236 per carb / 2472 for both. a 52/60 carb would be 3.14 x 26 x 26 = 2123 3.14 x 30 x 30 = 2826 which would make total area 4949 square millimetres 32/36 is 804 + 1017 = 1821

I've just got a standard ea81 with 32/36 weber atm. Real nice low and midrange, no top end but that's most probably due to the manifold and heads. I think the weber's good for 120hp or so, but the manifold is narrow and has 2 sharp 90 degree bends which is not good.