cubastreet

On a carb setup it's pretty straightforward. You mount a tank, run a line up to the engine bay, put it through a solenoid to the vapouriser which also needs to be hooked up to the heater hoses. You run a rubber hose from that to a mixer which sits on your carb to flow the gas in. This hose has a simple valve in it to control the mixture. The vapouriser works like a scuba regulator and the engine just sucks what it needs. You then hook up a gas controller which controls the solenoid under the hood, and ususlly in the tank and vapouriser as well. It also has a control to cut the fuel pump for when you're running on LPG. Then there's just little things like a filler hose and wiring for the always unreliable fuel gauge. For efi, the controller has to interact with the computer to trick it into thinking everything's normal.

Sweet, I did that a few years ago in an old 60s ambulance I had as a camper. It sure got a few surprised looks.

In that case, he should use a perfectly balanced 3 main bearing motor, not that modern rubbish

Yeah everyone gets stuck on their 1st subbie outing, just don't tell anyone.

Yeah props to the devil! I followed your thread for quite a while, amazing what can happen when you set something up for 'just a few pounds boost'.

Looks great! How about some profile shots of the whole car?

oh ************ it looks like you can't even say ************ on this board.

I would have thought it would be the other way around. With efi you still have to make similar decisions on the hardware ie size of throttle bodies, injectors etc plus you have to choose and install an ecu. otoh, tuning is often a case of just running a laptop and increasing/decreasing the injector pulse where it's out whereas with carbs you have to pull ************ apart and change fuel and air jets etc. I think that's why forced induction only became common on factory cars with the advent of efi - doing it with carbs is too difficult and not reliable enough. I want to supercharge my ea81 brumby but not until I have megasquirt running cos I don't want to tkeep blowing up my motor.

Cheers for the responses. sr - are your diffs viscous or clutchpack as the viscous ones should tighten up in response to slip whereas the clutchpack should be locked up to a point and then slip. I'm pretty sure they are both out of early turbo legacies.

Make sure you get the big valve heads, and you can also smooth out the ports with a die grinder or patiently with a dremel.

The New Zealand ones were assembled here, and they were slightly different spec. My ea81 has a fan like that plus an electric fan.

OK my ute should be back on the road in a couple of weeks too so we can duel, I doubt many others will have such lame power/weight ratio.

Mad rump roast 70s colours. Did u race the ute at the nats boe?

Nos

Yes it has the sealed viscous pack. I don't know if one iss too soft or one is too hard or they are different spec. Don't know what either are out of, but they're both 4.11 ratio.

I now have two viscous LSDs, one of which I'm going to put in the back of my 81 brumby. One I've had for a while, the conical washers behind the spider gears were destroyed, I guess someone had been too hard on it. It's just been sitting in my shed. I now have another complete diff, but I've noticed the viscous centre is different. On the one that's been abused, I can put a stub axle in each side and slowly turn it by hand. The second centre can only be turned if I put it in a vice, and put a screwdriver through the stub axle for leverage. I can only just turn it then. They both look identical. Is the first diff cente stuffed?

It can be done, even on a car with sequential injection, but with a LPG carb as mentioned by GD. Nobody does direct injection to my knowledge but it WOULD be a huge advantage as the cooling of the vapourising gas would cool the charge in the cylinder and result in more power output. Using the standard vapouriser/carb setup this cooling effect is actually a disadvantage as you need to run your engine cooling fluid through it to stop the vapouriser from freezing up. Other advantages are: The blowby gases are not acidic, so your oil lasts much longer You never need to use choke, and the fuel doesn't condense on the cylinder walls washing away the oil on startup, so your engine lasts much longer You can run a much higher compression ratio without detonation, and on a well-built LPG only engine can get similar milage as on petrol. Environmentally it's much better than petrol. Disadvantages: If you want to use petrol and LPG you will lose space for the tank, a little power and 20% of your MPG. weight of the extra tank cost to install

Also, use LPGsuperchargedbrumby had an ea81 running blown on LPG .... for a while.

This thread's pretty good - a guy who decided to mildly SC his EJ and got a little boost hungry: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=605625&page=1&pp=25

Better plan: Hide the xt and the 79, get the new car, sell it, invest the money and pull out the sweet old cars again. You know you want to...

Snap (almost) I have an 81 brat and an 88 sentra hatch.

Check the earth connection between the battery and the motor.

Don't think there are any clearance/compatibility issues re the ea81, they managed it in the factory. If you put the ej22 in, you'll also need to uprate brakes, suspension, driveline... lots, if you want to make it safe and reliable. ej22 is ohc, so much wider and will take a fair bit of chassis bashing too. Don't forget you'll also have to change the fuel system (high pressure) and engine management. I don't think many will recommend an ej into a gen1, it would be a major, costly job. You'd have to be VERY dedicated in terms of time and money to do it right. The chassis wasn't built for that kind of power either so it won't ever handle as well as one that is....

Yeah looks pretty screwed a. Maks, you got rid of ur vortex?

Problem is he's too old for it. He should give it to some 18yo to race, someone not so aware of mortality.